help with torque twist pls

[no1970ax1o]

have ax10 with vanquish dig,dig works great.but after install that dreaded torque twist is back read about mirrored tranny . has anyone mirrored tranny with dig any help would be great

[KC_JoNeS]

You can not mirror your tranny with a dig. Why dont you try posting a pic of your rear setup with links etc.

Casey

[no1970ax1o]

will try to post tommorow all stock in rear though

[Aggie01]

Originally Posted by no1970ax1o

will try to post tommorow all stock in rear though

All stock? Does that mean three link? You should start by four linking the rear if you haven't already. Proper link geometry goes a long way with torque twist. I am working on tuning it out of my rig all over again. I recently went to a 34t HH Pro Handwound, and it is way more power than my rig has ever seen.

[no1970ax1o]

yes it is 3 link i was think about tcs 4 link kit

[KC_JoNeS]

stay away from kits. It is so easy to get the drill out and make a couple holes. Then, get some 6mm toob of some kind, and make your own.

Just 2 days ago I put this together.
It is titanium upper links with an aluminum U block that is similar in design to the popular D-Mount, only mine is way smaller...but, in my defense, it has been cold out.




Casey

[Aggie01]

UGC D-Mount is sweet. That is what I used. And Im with KC on the links. Buy some delrin and make your own

[Duuuuuuuude]

There is much more to tuning out TT than slapping on parts, even the super-awesome D-mount.

Start reading up on TT and link geometry. There is lots to absorb, and your head may explode, but any info that you might retain will be to your advantage. That way, when you get your new D-mount and pick up that handfull of parts to build your own links, you'll have a general idea of what is going on.

[DickyT]

X3 for D-Mount

[irok22s]

x4 for D mount

[Aggie01]

X2 on the homework the Duuuuuuuuude assigned you

[Mud Puppy]

I have eliminated 90% of the torque twist and still have the 3-link front and rear. It doesn't show up until I hit 65 degrees climbing.

Not saying 4-link isn't a good idea, I am planning on changing after X-mas.
Just saying that it is not automatically the end-all solution. The stock link geometery is totally wrong, even for a 3-link.

[ROWDY RACING]

Get a GC-3A chassis the torque twist is virtually non existent.

[DickyT]

Originally Posted by Mud Puppy

I have eliminated 90% of the torque twist and still have the 3-link front and rear. It doesn't show up until I hit 65 degrees climbing.

Not saying 4-link isn't a good idea, I am planning on changing after X-mas.
Just saying that it is not automatically the end-all solution. The stock link geometery is totally wrong, even for a 3-link.

Well put, no single thing is the end all solution. It took me several setups before I got my FF4 then Fastback torque twist free.

Spur facing forward, motor on right side (have to do this for dig anyway), under drive rear gears, 60 wt oil in left rear shock (45 in right rear), equal length upper links, hours of anti squat tuning and a good aftermarket chassis and the rig would climb 70 degrees all day with no visible twist.

[JustinThyme]

My tranny "mirror" was done differently than explained here. I just took the whole motor mount with tranny/motor, and rotated it 180* in the frame. This DOESN'T eliminate torque twist, but instead of it lifting your right front tire when you go forward, it lifts your left rear when you go in reverse. And the idea is to avoid reverse.

If you do it this way, you have to reverse the wires on your motor....wire it backwards. Put the red wire on the neg, and the black wire on the pos. If you're running a brushed motor (which just about everyone does), while there IS a difference in top speed between the two, it isn't dramatic and probably won't be missed. Make sure there isn't a timing adjustment on the motor, but if you are running an unmodified 35-55T lathe type motor, it should already be at 0 timing.

Doing it this way might allow the dig. I don't use a dig, so I'll let those that know comment on my method and say if a dig would work on it.

[Duuuuuuuude]

Originally Posted by JustinThyme

If you do it this way, you have to reverse the wires on your motor....wire it backwards. Put the red wire on the neg, and the black wire on the pos. If you're running a brushed motor (which just about everyone does), while there IS a difference in top speed between the two, it isn't dramatic and probably won't be missed.

Concerning motor speed when reversing wires: If you do that and the timing is NOT at 0, then you will be spending a good deal of time running with retarded timing, which will hurt the motor. It needs to be at 0 or advanced.

Instead of swapping wires, you can rotate the end bell 180* which will also make it run the opposite direction, but in a much healthier way.

[greencrawler]

Originally Posted by ROWDY RACING

Get a GC-3A chassis the torque twist is virtually non existent.

X2 on the GC-3A and this chassis kit comes with everything you need; links side plates, skid, hardware, link plates, and the guess work is over Austin did an amazing job designing this set up to take out all of the trial and error hope that helps

[no1970ax1o]

built 4 link setup with traxxas adjustable links gonna hit rocks at lunch time will let everyone know how it works thx 4 all you's guys help

[no1970ax1o]

just crawled with 4 link work great thx guys

[Duuuuuuuude]

Cool.

Got any pics?