RCCrawler Forums

derekdickslanger · 11-20-2010, 08:23 AM

Hey guys. I bought an axial ax10 just to try it out and I'm now addicted. I don't know anyone with a crawler to look to for advice so here I am. My goal is NOT to comp crawl but just to have fun and of course crawl over everything! Maybe I can get some tips on a good place to start as far as my first few buys to hop up this truck. Here's what I have so far.. I've got hot body sedona tires 2.2,stock rims with 2 oz in each tire,memory foam inserts,hi clearance links(axial) and the steering links axial alum. I moved the battery to over the front drive shaft on one of those little plates for eletronics(worked good). I just cant figure out the best way to get started..And I dont want to waste money going in the wrong direction..Do i buy shocks right away? I also bought a hi tec hs-7950th hi torque probrammable servo that I havent installed yet. Do i need anything for the switch to this servo? Anything will help thanks guys.

Nubster · 11-20-2010, 08:33 AM

From all the reading I have done thus far it seems that the C's and knuckles are a good place to start as with much use the stock plastic ones tend to fail pretty quickly. Shocks are also another place people seem to upgrade pretty quickly. Perhaps look at electronics too. I am pretty much in the exact same boat as you. I plan to take things as slow as my patience will allow so that I can try to learn about my setup, understand crawling, and better understand why I need to upgrade something and when I do the upgrade...I'll be able to actually see what the result was.

fred0000 · 11-20-2010, 08:34 AM

sounds like your crawler has a handfull of upgrades as it is, and it sounds like you've bought the right stuff and done the right mods (move the battery is top of the list) shocks could be a next investment as everything else has pretty well been covered (other then electronics), I run RC4WD 90mm SPARK shocks on my comp crawler, they have done me quite well. I have venom creeper shocks on my other AX10 and they are awesome for a cheap shock, and the semi-droop setup keeps it low and flexy. (the 4 creeper shocks were about the same price as 2 of my SPARK shocks) that servo is awesome, good choice, you will likely need a BEC to run it, what the BEC does is supplies more current to the servo then the built in ESC's BEC, for $20 new (i've got them for less new on ebay) its an almost "might as well just do it" item.

shizzz · 11-20-2010, 12:48 PM

Well, the links are the stuff to change.
but the most important is experience points u gain once u drive.
So, drive as much as u can and see what u really need to change.
Alu or delrin links will take place instead of stock very soon. As for radio, well, not a secret the stock is glitchy, but u can use it unless it ends up.
If u have access to a hobby store, u can get all kinds of rod ends, tubes and stuff and do all by urself. But to understand what u need u have to DRIVE

If u feel u r too low, rise up a bit. No need to change shocks. Just drill a hole under the stock shock mount on the chassis and, voila, u have now higher clearance. But keep in mind cog. I personally prefer to stay as low as possible.

derekdickslanger · 11-20-2010, 01:35 PM

Thanks you guys. I have some integy shocks that seem alittle too long. Thus ****ing up my cog alittle bit. Any opinions on those? Heard they suck. I think I may have had the idea it's all about clearance but I seem to have been wrong. Low and flexible is the way huh?Is 30 weight shock oil good ? My high clearance links seem to be catching alittle bit on the frame when flexed out. How important is articulation over cog?

meatmonkey · 11-20-2010, 01:58 PM

Stability is far more important than flex. And your right, COG is directly related to stability. Any more flex than about 1 tires worth may look cool, but is rarely as effective as limited travel that is smooth and well damped.

I run my stock chassied axial with the lower links level, with just over 2 inches of chassis clearance. It does bottom out on rocks, but with all the droop in the suspension the tires still pull it over everything, and I wouldn't trade the increase in center clearence for the resulting higher COG. Having a smooth undercarriege is as important as having the clearence.

One important free mod is to notch the skidplate so you can locate the lower links inside the chassis plates. I did this with only some diagonal cutters and an X-acto knife. You'll get hung up less cause the links won't be hanging outside the chassis, and the slightly added triangulation helps reduce axle steer while articulating.

What shock oil to run is dependant on the diameter of the shock pistons and how many holes they have in them. I run 70 weight in my shocks with one hole pistons to slow down the suspension movements. Most people run somewhere inbetween 30 and 80 weight.

Your going to need an aluminum 24 spline servo arm for your Hitec servo. I run a Robitronics clamping style arm on my Hitec 7954 and it is the beefiest arm I've seen yet.

Eventually your going to need aluminum C's and knuckles cause that servo will literally tear the plastic ones to pieces when you get bound up. I run Vanquish high clearence knuckles with CKRC inner C's without any issues.

Oh, and always have a spare spur gear, cause it seems like you only strip one when you don't have a spare.

We'd need pics to tell you if your chassis catching links are going to be an issue.

Good luck with your new addiction!

derekdickslanger · 11-21-2010, 09:19 AM

ok thanks. I put on a delrin skid plate that i was able to move the links in with. Seems to slide much better than the plastic stock one. It's raining here so I'm waiting to try out the changes outdoors. I have about the same amount of clearance as u mentioned so I think I was just assuming that was an issue when it doesn't seem to be. Thanks for the info on that guys. I have a nice steering arm that I think ill use til I have an issue with it. I was more wondering if my servo needs any programming or anything. May be a stupid Q but I dont want to mess it up or anything. ..What's the average weight for the tires? I have the stock axial weights now. 4 oz in each tire. All the same.

Aggie01 · 11-21-2010, 08:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by derekdickslanger

ok thanks. I put on a delrin skid plate that i was able to move the links in with. Seems to slide much better than the plastic stock one. It's raining here so I'm waiting to try out the changes outdoors. I have about the same amount of clearance as u mentioned so I think I was just assuming that was an issue when it doesn't seem to be. Thanks for the info on that guys. I have a nice steering arm that I think ill use til I have an issue with it. I was more wondering if my servo needs any programming or anything. May be a stupid Q but I dont want to mess it up or anything. ..What's the average weight for the tires? I have the stock axial weights now. 4 oz in each tire. All the same.

You will want more weight up front. It helps you climb and with breakovers.

You won't be able to run that servo without a bec. Search in th electronics section for bec. You will find wiring diagrams for wiring it up. I would get one from Holmes Hobbies. You can have them set the output voltage for you. Otherwise you will need a Castle Link to set the voltage. If you have a Castle speed controler a Castle Link is a good idea, but since you don't I would just buy one from HH. You will also want to upgrade your radio asap. With that servo you won't be able to adjust your end points on the servo.

As far as your shocks and ride height questions. In my opinion you can't beat a well sprung rig. You want to have your lower links pretty level with the ground. Too much droop and you just drag your belly all over the place. If your too tall you won't be able to keep your rig right side up. Post some pics of your rig.

Oh and you will want to get some c-hubs and knuckles asap. The plastic won't last long with a 7950. Plus it just doesn't pivot very smooth and just makes the servo work harder than it needs to. I would get some axial clockable c-hubs and I run VP High Steer knuckles.

Sounds like your off to a good start. Next big up grade should be a radio, then a esc.

derekdickslanger · 11-22-2010, 08:45 AM

These forums rock(lol). Thanks for the input once again. I'm gonna get that stuff for the servo today and get it going. I went and got 30 shock oil and the softest springs they had. Gonna try to rework my setup a bit and give it another round. I have the spectrum dx3e for my e-revo. Is that a good enough radio for my early crawling needs? Mainly just wanna get the servo all dialed in. Oh yeah went and got the hubs and high steer knuckles from vanquish too. I'm gonna put it together today and post pics later.

drgrcr74 · 11-22-2010, 08:59 AM

I run a DX3R on my comp set up and it works fantastically. You have a great rig going, and I mirror everyone elses comments, drive, drive, drive. You might look into a dig unit once you get some of your other stuff finished. I have a DNA dig and it works great. Welcome to your new addiction!

derekdickslanger · 11-22-2010, 12:55 PM

Thanks. Off to do some some test runs. If anyone else has any input on other areas we didnt cover in this thread feel free to steer me in the right direction. All the advice has really helped. One question I do have is for the rig I have what are some suggestions as to weight front and rear? Im pretty sure I need alot more just wondering what u guys are doing.

slowlearner · 11-22-2010, 02:47 PM

reading over the list of mods so far, it's seems you're on the right track. I didn't see any mention of drive-shafts, so if they're stock, swap them out for something metal, anything is better than plastic. I've been running INTEGY shafts since the git-go and no dramas. I also used some of the 147mm INTEGY shox which was a colosal waste of time and money; way high COG and lurched all over the place twisting up into some bad situations. Currently running LOSI comp shocks with white springs, 70wt right rear, 60wt left rear + 45wt fronts.
The other thing that everyone MUST do is read, read, read, read and read everything they can on mods that work. Look at what others have done, see what is working and copy if possible. I say if possible, cos you can only do so much with the stock chassis before upgrading to a decent aftermarket chassis. But thats half the journey, learning what works and what doesn't.

11-20-2010, 08:23 AM	#1
derekdickslanger Newbie Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: chico Posts: 5	Newbie Needs Help(as usual) Hey guys. I bought an axial ax10 just to try it out and I'm now addicted. I don't know anyone with a crawler to look to for advice so here I am. My goal is NOT to comp crawl but just to have fun and of course crawl over everything! Maybe I can get some tips on a good place to start as far as my first few buys to hop up this truck. Here's what I have so far.. I've got hot body sedona tires 2.2,stock rims with 2 oz in each tire,memory foam inserts,hi clearance links(axial) and the steering links axial alum. I moved the battery to over the front drive shaft on one of those little plates for eletronics(worked good). I just cant figure out the best way to get started..And I dont want to waste money going in the wrong direction..Do i buy shocks right away? I also bought a hi tec hs-7950th hi torque probrammable servo that I havent installed yet. Do i need anything for the switch to this servo? Anything will help thanks guys.

11-20-2010, 08:33 AM	#2
Nubster Pebble Pounder Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: WV Posts: 178	From all the reading I have done thus far it seems that the C's and knuckles are a good place to start as with much use the stock plastic ones tend to fail pretty quickly. Shocks are also another place people seem to upgrade pretty quickly. Perhaps look at electronics too. I am pretty much in the exact same boat as you. I plan to take things as slow as my patience will allow so that I can try to learn about my setup, understand crawling, and better understand why I need to upgrade something and when I do the upgrade...I'll be able to actually see what the result was.

11-20-2010, 08:34 AM	#3
fred0000 cherry bomb Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Nanaimo, BC, Canada Posts: 1,598	sounds like your crawler has a handfull of upgrades as it is, and it sounds like you've bought the right stuff and done the right mods (move the battery is top of the list) shocks could be a next investment as everything else has pretty well been covered (other then electronics), I run RC4WD 90mm SPARK shocks on my comp crawler, they have done me quite well. I have venom creeper shocks on my other AX10 and they are awesome for a cheap shock, and the semi-droop setup keeps it low and flexy. (the 4 creeper shocks were about the same price as 2 of my SPARK shocks) that servo is awesome, good choice, you will likely need a BEC to run it, what the BEC does is supplies more current to the servo then the built in ESC's BEC, for $20 new (i've got them for less new on ebay) its an almost "might as well just do it" item.

11-20-2010, 12:48 PM	#4
shizzz Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Ukraine Posts: 400	Well, the links are the stuff to change. but the most important is experience points u gain once u drive. So, drive as much as u can and see what u really need to change. Alu or delrin links will take place instead of stock very soon. As for radio, well, not a secret the stock is glitchy, but u can use it unless it ends up. If u have access to a hobby store, u can get all kinds of rod ends, tubes and stuff and do all by urself. But to understand what u need u have to DRIVE If u feel u r too low, rise up a bit. No need to change shocks. Just drill a hole under the stock shock mount on the chassis and, voila, u have now higher clearance. But keep in mind cog. I personally prefer to stay as low as possible.

11-20-2010, 01:35 PM	#5
derekdickslanger Newbie Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: chico Posts: 5	Thanks you guys. I have some integy shocks that seem alittle too long. Thus ****ing up my cog alittle bit. Any opinions on those? Heard they suck. I think I may have had the idea it's all about clearance but I seem to have been wrong. Low and flexible is the way huh?Is 30 weight shock oil good ? My high clearance links seem to be catching alittle bit on the frame when flexed out. How important is articulation over cog?

11-20-2010, 01:58 PM	#6
meatmonkey I wanna be Dave Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: central VT Posts: 2,300	Stability is far more important than flex. And your right, COG is directly related to stability. Any more flex than about 1 tires worth may look cool, but is rarely as effective as limited travel that is smooth and well damped. I run my stock chassied axial with the lower links level, with just over 2 inches of chassis clearance. It does bottom out on rocks, but with all the droop in the suspension the tires still pull it over everything, and I wouldn't trade the increase in center clearence for the resulting higher COG. Having a smooth undercarriege is as important as having the clearence. One important free mod is to notch the skidplate so you can locate the lower links inside the chassis plates. I did this with only some diagonal cutters and an X-acto knife. You'll get hung up less cause the links won't be hanging outside the chassis, and the slightly added triangulation helps reduce axle steer while articulating. What shock oil to run is dependant on the diameter of the shock pistons and how many holes they have in them. I run 70 weight in my shocks with one hole pistons to slow down the suspension movements. Most people run somewhere inbetween 30 and 80 weight. Your going to need an aluminum 24 spline servo arm for your Hitec servo. I run a Robitronics clamping style arm on my Hitec 7954 and it is the beefiest arm I've seen yet. Eventually your going to need aluminum C's and knuckles cause that servo will literally tear the plastic ones to pieces when you get bound up. I run Vanquish high clearence knuckles with CKRC inner C's without any issues. Oh, and always have a spare spur gear, cause it seems like you only strip one when you don't have a spare. We'd need pics to tell you if your chassis catching links are going to be an issue. Good luck with your new addiction!

11-21-2010, 09:19 AM	#7
derekdickslanger Newbie Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: chico Posts: 5	ok thanks. I put on a delrin skid plate that i was able to move the links in with. Seems to slide much better than the plastic stock one. It's raining here so I'm waiting to try out the changes outdoors. I have about the same amount of clearance as u mentioned so I think I was just assuming that was an issue when it doesn't seem to be. Thanks for the info on that guys. I have a nice steering arm that I think ill use til I have an issue with it. I was more wondering if my servo needs any programming or anything. May be a stupid Q but I dont want to mess it up or anything. ..What's the average weight for the tires? I have the stock axial weights now. 4 oz in each tire. All the same.

11-22-2010, 08:45 AM	#9
derekdickslanger Newbie Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: chico Posts: 5	These forums rock(lol). Thanks for the input once again. I'm gonna get that stuff for the servo today and get it going. I went and got 30 shock oil and the softest springs they had. Gonna try to rework my setup a bit and give it another round. I have the spectrum dx3e for my e-revo. Is that a good enough radio for my early crawling needs? Mainly just wanna get the servo all dialed in. Oh yeah went and got the hubs and high steer knuckles from vanquish too. I'm gonna put it together today and post pics later.

11-22-2010, 08:59 AM	#10
drgrcr74 Newbie Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Middle Tennessee Posts: 29	I run a DX3R on my comp set up and it works fantastically. You have a great rig going, and I mirror everyone elses comments, drive, drive, drive. You might look into a dig unit once you get some of your other stuff finished. I have a DNA dig and it works great. Welcome to your new addiction!

11-22-2010, 12:55 PM	#11
derekdickslanger Newbie Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: chico Posts: 5	Thanks. Off to do some some test runs. If anyone else has any input on other areas we didnt cover in this thread feel free to steer me in the right direction. All the advice has really helped. One question I do have is for the rig I have what are some suggestions as to weight front and rear? Im pretty sure I need alot more just wondering what u guys are doing.

11-22-2010, 02:47 PM	#12
slowlearner Rock Stacker Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: tamworth, nsw, australia Posts: 93	reading over the list of mods so far, it's seems you're on the right track. I didn't see any mention of drive-shafts, so if they're stock, swap them out for something metal, anything is better than plastic. I've been running INTEGY shafts since the git-go and no dramas. I also used some of the 147mm INTEGY shox which was a colosal waste of time and money; way high COG and lurched all over the place twisting up into some bad situations. Currently running LOSI comp shocks with white springs, 70wt right rear, 60wt left rear + 45wt fronts. The other thing that everyone MUST do is read, read, read, read and read everything they can on mods that work. Look at what others have done, see what is working and copy if possible. I say if possible, cos you can only do so much with the stock chassis before upgrading to a decent aftermarket chassis. But thats half the journey, learning what works and what doesn't.

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