Rootar's Sportsman Truck

[Rootar]

Well i got the itch to build a sportsman truck, they look like fun and i can hand to to anyone and say here drive it with out having to hand them my 4pk and explain everything.

So here is what i got so far. (most is used, alot is new, the rest needs to be ordered)


-BWD SSS-R chassis
-HD over drive front gears
-VP High clearance knuckles
-BTA steering setup
-Aluminum C's
-DH1's for the front, and Slws for the back (which hubs for each im not sure yet, prolly 460 or 585s up front with 600s in the back) does that sound right?
-new white rovers
-Mamba Max Pro
-Tekin 17.5t w/13 or 14mm high torque rotor ( i have both to choose from)
-BWD motor plate
-5955 servo
-CC BEC
-specktrum RX
-3s 1100 hyperion lipos

As for the brushless I've already got it, itll prolly get swapped out for a Brood 35t HHK motor after while, If i cant get it to perform like it should.

Still possibly need
-underdrive HD rear gears? are these necessary with the SSS-R style chassis
-CVDs (do i gain any steering with the axial cvds?) (300s would cost more than the whole rest of the truck so thats out of the question for now)
-Felsenfest lockers (100x better than stock and not bad price)
-Beef tubes (are these needed on a light truck?)
-aluminum rear lockouts (agian are they need on such a light truck)
-Drive shafts? ive got slash and maxx shafts do i need anything else?

if I'm missing anything let me know, ive never owned an Ax10 so i don't know its weak points.

I'm thinking the truck will weigh around 4.75 Pounds RTR

any suggestions on any other parts im gonna need to get this thing going good.

[Wicked Klown]

I'm running plastic rear lockouts on a 6.6pound rig. For shafts I would look at a set of MIPs.

[kmnss]

I just finished rebuilding my SSS-R tonight.

I'll edit this post with details in the morning. I've gotta get some sleep.

[Highlucks]

Junfac shafts are another good option plus they are a lot lighter than the mips. They can also be modded for a 4mm grub screw.
Beef toobs will help with this rig
Underdrives are a good idea
Aluminum rear lock outs are unnecessary
CVD's will give you more steering

[Manning]

I'd recommend...
The UD gears for the back.
Sticking with the stock dogbone axles in the front if you can't spring for the 300's. All of the CVD's for Axial axle are weak, other than the 300's. I'm running stock.
RCP lockers are good, and cheap. Nothing against the Felsenfests.
The beef tubes are probably overkill for a light truck. I've only broken 2 sets of axle cases in 2 years. Of course one set broke at a big comp......
Plastic lockouts are fine. And lighter.
Stampede driveshafts work suprisingly well. The front shaft is the weak one due to the angles. I do replace the front when I see the yokes twisting. Plastic shafts are lighther. The MIP shafts are HEAVY.

Have fun with that.

[Rootar]

thanks for the input,

so im gonna forget the cvds, the rear lockouts, and drive shafts (stick to plastic for alittle while and see how they hold up)


still getting the Felsenfest lockers, Underdrive gears, not gonna get ther Beef tubes right away but i might later.


Sounds like a plan, no more uncontested wins for you in "pro shafty" mike! should be fun truck to run.

[Highlucks]

Beef toobs could still be a benefit as they remove some of the needed weight from your wheels hence reducing the rotational mass of the wheels and lightening the load of your drive train.

[Rootar]

yea but i wont be running any weight in the wheels. slws out back and DH1s up front no added weight, I would get Slws for the front but im cheap...

if i got enough in my paypal ill prolly go ahead and grab a set of them though.

[K.O.M.]

Hey Ross,

I've got that SSS-R in the mail for you. I PM'd the tracking info for the package.

If you click on the link in my signature, you can see what my SSS-R setup was. And that was with weights in the front wheels.

The biggest advantage of this chassis compared to say a GC3 or SWX chassis is the awesome clearance of both the skid and the rear links and the narrow skid plate as well.

Here's the link for building the chassis as per BWD's website:
http://www.billet-works.com/build_in..._-_axial_sss-r

I used both underdrive and overdrie gears together and not only is the turning radius tight, but it helps a ton with clawing up and over ledges without tipping backwards--no more torque twist as well.

Good luck with your build.

[Manning]

I've played with running little or no weight in the rear wheels, and I can't seem to get it to work. Rig seems to become unpredictable. Always end up with a few oz in the rears. I run a bunch in the front, whole tire/wheel combo weighs almost 16 oz. Rig weighs 5 lb 13 oz ready to run with battery.

I really like running the "pro shafty". Obviously.

[PipeDreams]

I'd recommended the beef tubes just so you can rotate the pinion and set the castor way back... helps a lot.
I haven't heard great thing running both OD and UD but you can try. I run just the UD to cut down on TT and helps it climb... I"m open to trying the OD up front but not sure if it's worth the money.
Your maxx shafts should be more then beef enough!
585 and 600 hubs is what I run.. works great.
Stick to the stock front shafts if you can't get the 300's. Mod the cup to get more steering.
I'd highly suggest the VP 0 ackerman over their high steer... much less binds and more power.
I run a felsenfest locker in the rear and it's nice... way better then my old rcp lockers. But kinda fussy to setup.

Other wise looks like it'll be a cool rig.

[K.O.M.]

Originally Posted by PipeDreams

I'd recommended the beef tubes just so you can rotate the pinion and set the castor way back... helps a lot.
I haven't heard great thing running both OD and UD but you can try. I run just the UD to cut down on TT and helps it climb... I"m open to trying the OD up front but not sure if it's worth the money.

beef toobs--yes, gunnar knows how to build some crawlers that can take some um, abuse I won't get into details about that one, except that I've never seen a crawler catch that much air in my life other than in the hands of gunnar and with KC Jones mfg. ltd. corp. to do the manufacturing, you are in good hands

I'll disagree on the OD and UD. I think they work fantastic together. I bought both at the same time and I tried one at a time at each axle to see what would happen. I'll dig up the video I have here somewhere, but whatever good either an OD up front or an UD in the rear does, is simply magnified by putting both on at the same time. You're always dragging the rear, which people do electronically with MOA anyway on sidehills to get the chassis to squat down, and the now exponentially faster rotating axles are a big help on steep climbs and tighter turning.

[Highlucks]

Originally Posted by K.O.M.

I'll disagree on the OD and UD. I think they work fantastic together. I bought both at the same time and I tried one at a time at each axle to see what would happen. I'll dig up the video I have here somewhere, but whatever good either an OD up front or an UD in the rear does, is simply magnified by putting both on at the same time. You're always dragging the rear, which people do electronically with MOA anyway on sidehills to get the chassis to squat down, and the now exponentially faster rotating axles are a big help on steep climbs and tighter turning.

Precisely

Heres my list if its of any help.

Front Diff/Steering

SDS Customs Super 300's
VP Zero Akerman Knuckles
Axial over drive gears
Axial Clockable C's
Hitec HS 7955TG
KC Jones BTA
Gunner Beef toobs
SSS-R servo/battery plate

Rear Diff.

Axial under drive gears
Plastic Lock outs
SSS-R rear four link plate
Stock everything else.

Chassis.

BWD SSS-R

Trans.

HR aluminum Casing
RPP Hardened Internals
Robson Racing titanium Spur 87T
Robson Racing Hardened Pinion 14T
VP Hurtz Shifter Dig
Futaba micro Dig servo
Junfac Shafts.

Electrics/motor

Holmes Hobbies 11T 500 Puller
Castle Creations Sidewinder ESC
Castle Creations BEC set at 6.0V

[TC09mini]

I have had mixed thoughts about the OD/UD mods. I originally had both in the truck and I experienced a few things. With the GC3A, and 3.5 inch shocks, it really cut down on break overs and the ability to gas the truck and hop which comes in handy (on a 2C). That being said, with a torsion chassis such as the SSS-R, you aren't going to experience the compression that you do with a traditional sprung set up.

I was also having some other issues with the stock crappy pinion mount causing some mesh issues which robbed power (and destroyed numerous gears with a 21.5 brushless set up ). After I fixed the mesh issues, I also swapped out the rear UD and upgraded to a 3c. It performed awesome but I don't think it was due to the lack of the UD. Because of my new chassis, I didn't have the room to run the brushless set up any more so I ran an a brushed set up on a 2c rooster and it was super smooth. So much so that after getting all of the other bugs worked out, I really could have benefited from the UD rear.

I tell you all of this because I think after working all of the NOOB issues out of the truck (which you aren't really going to have. This was my first venture in the RC world), I think the UD is a mod worth trying again/for the first time. I'm going to swap them back in and do some more testing.

[Crawling Calvin]

UD alone is a huge improvement over the stock geartrain, so throw UD and OD together and it sounds pretty impressive. I am amazed at what i can pull using UD only in the rear, if you slow the car down you can let the gears work their magic better

[Rootar]

Chassis arrived today, when the axles get here ill have a rolling truck and the other stuff i just ordered will be here next week and ill get it on/in it as it arrives.

[TC09mini]

Originally Posted by Rootar

Chassis arrived today, when the axles get here ill have a rolling truck and the other stuff i just ordered will be here next week and ill get it on/in it as it arrives.

bump. . . its got to be together by now. . . hows it coming?

[Rootar]

yea its rolling, thing is LIGHT, i completely see how Don was saying he could have his RTR under 4 pounds, i'm waiting on wheels, brood motor, gonna run a sidewinder esc, ive got it layed out with all the electronics ont he front axle, only the motor and tranny in the truck. once i get some more pieces in ill post up some pictures


BTW how wide are you guys running your trucks front and rear?

with 600s on slw the rear is right at 10" maybe 10.125"

the front with 585s and dh1s is only 10.25" im thinking about modding some hubs to be an extra 3-4 mm wider per side so my front will be at a solid 10.5" or maybe 10.625"

or should i leave the 585s and dh1s alone? the truck just seems a little narrow to me.

[TC09mini]

Originally Posted by Rootar

yea its rolling, thing is LIGHT, i completely see how Don was saying he could have his RTR under 4 pounds,


the truck just seems a little narrow to me.

4pds! thats crazy! My current set up is pretty light too but I haven't weighted to see how much exactly. I've got all the electronics mounted up front on mine too. I just need to find the time to wire on the BEC and the new HH motor.

As for the width of the axle, I can take a look when I get home. These trucks are considerably more narrow than MOAs.

[Highlucks]

Hey amn I am not sure of the actual widths of mine but I am running axial offset in the front with berg in the rear and the rig performs well through the gates.