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Old 02-22-2010, 02:26 PM   #1
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Default Homebrew Tuber IT'S ALIVE!

Getting back into crawlers and I figured what better way to do it then jump right in and build an aluminum tube bodied rig. So I went out, got a few sticks of brake line, some silver solder, and some patience and I went to work. The Specs for this thing is:

12.5" wheelbase
3.5" belly height
4 link F/R
Axial axles(rear locked)
Axial transmission/VP Dig
35t motor
Hitec Servos
Losi Rock Claws on Axial rims.
Unknown shocks(bought them from LHS, can anyone ID them?)

Since I'm a college student, I have no money, so most everything has been bought off of this forum. On to the pics.





It sat like this for a while, got some axles in and made a jig for the wheelbase.



Also, started working up a skid plate out of cutting board. I used traxxas rod ends(large) and 8/32 all thread sleeved with 1/4" stainless tubing for my links.

And Here is how it sits now.



And the mandatory flex shot




Last edited by YJJPWrangler; 02-02-2011 at 04:04 PM.
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Old 02-22-2010, 08:33 PM   #2
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Looks good. To me it looks more 1.1 then alot of tubers I've seen on here.

Jake
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Old 02-23-2010, 10:35 AM   #3
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Nice skill's, but I think the front shock locations aren't in your favor. I expected them to be up in the hoops and they are sitting over the axle with a good portion of the chassis. Where are you going to find room for the steering servo? and room for travel?:?
I"m not knocking the effort, I think there's some relative things to look at before you call it good. To me it looks like the axle ahould be farther forward.
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Old 02-23-2010, 05:06 PM   #4
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Krakker, I think that the previous pictures are misleading. Hopefully these will help.



Plenty of room for the servo, and here is the front setup at full compression.



As you can see, there is still plenty of room for the steering servo. I had mounted my shocks to the crossbar that runs across the shock bars, but I found that ride height/flex was nowhere near as good. Are you suggesting moving the shocks forward? Here is where they sit now.



If I move them forward, it will increase the ride height. I really wanted this thing to sit around 2.75-3" As of now, it sits right at 3 3/8". I imagine if I get some new springs it will lower them. The springs now are pretty stiff. By no means is it done, I've even thought about cutting the shock hoops/bar off if I dont need them. Keep the comments coming I've got thick skin:-P
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Old 02-23-2010, 05:08 PM   #5
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Also, due to the wideness of the chassis, the wheels will not turn fully lock to lock Mostly due to my fault for designing that way, but I'm pretty sure that by running the 15mm wideners, I should have no problems. Anybody running the integy wideners? Any feedback on them or is there others that I need to look at?
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Old 02-23-2010, 05:54 PM   #6
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Looks really good

Nice work
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Old 02-23-2010, 06:39 PM   #7
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looks to me like the bottom of the shocks needs to be out boarded more, or the tops in boarded so the shock doesn't want to "roll over its self". (see pic 5)

sweet chassis! why the strait lower links? it will have way less flex steer if you triangulated the lowers.
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Old 02-23-2010, 06:48 PM   #8
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I didn't inboard the lower links b/c I don't believe they make a M3 or 4-40 that long. However, if I get a stick of 4-40 all thread, I can probably drill all the way through the skid and mount the lower links(F/R) closer together. Also, with the shocks mounted the way they are. They are mounted as close to the pinion as possible on the front axle. Should I inboard the top mounting position of the shock closer to the centerline of the chassis? Keep the comments coming guys, I have no problems changing things

Zack
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Old 02-23-2010, 07:05 PM   #9
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the truck will be instable, and have no to little side hill ability with the shocks at that angle. at full flex the shock should be completely vertical. does that make sense?

Last edited by samuraikid; 02-23-2010 at 07:09 PM.
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Old 02-23-2010, 07:08 PM   #10
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if cant move the bottom look at the line on the left if you cant look at the right. see what i mean?

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Old 02-23-2010, 07:11 PM   #11
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That shock angle (bottom more to center then the top) is what I was refering to. They can go up to verticle, I think you'd be way better off moving the top shock mounts forward a bit. Then you could cut the hoop section off and use it to mount the shocks too. You'd have more adjustability and it would look more realistic.

Best link mounting locations should look like this.
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Old 02-23-2010, 07:23 PM   #12
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You've got really good tube work skills. something I've no patieince for on rigs that small. (gimme a full size and I'll rock) I really like the shock hoop piece, I think it would be best to move it and mount the shocks up inside of it. This way you'd have room to angle the top of the shocks inward as they should be.
Here's my builds link. it should give some direction on the positioning of links and shocks.Project FUN BUGGY
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Old 02-23-2010, 08:47 PM   #13
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They are right You need to in board the top. Otherwise you'll have body roll. I know My 1.1 buggy with airshocks that were staight would lean the thing over big time just pulling it out the driveway and onto the trailer. I'd imagine 1.10 would be the same. Suspension tech is suspension tech.

Jake
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Old 02-24-2010, 07:47 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr104 View Post
They are right You need to in board the top. Otherwise you'll have body roll. I know My 1.1 buggy with airshocks that were staight would lean the thing over big time just pulling it out the driveway and onto the trailer. I'd imagine 1.10 would be the same. Suspension tech is suspension tech.

Jake
yes thats were my knowlage base comes from as well!
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Old 02-24-2010, 04:39 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samuraikid View Post
yes thats were my knowlage base comes from as well!
. I think it deffenitly helps having some 1.1 crawling exper. Electronics is my weakness with the rc's. I'm learning though.

PS Samuriakid ,two buggies ago I had zuk that was 4 linked on air bags that I built. It's in my 1.1 pics check it out. I likes the zukis
Jake

Last edited by jr104; 02-24-2010 at 04:44 PM.
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Old 02-24-2010, 05:14 PM   #16
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Looks good man! nice work
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Old 02-24-2010, 07:22 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr104 View Post
. I think it deffenitly helps having some 1.1 crawling exper. Electronics is my weakness with the rc's. I'm learning though.

PS Samuriakid ,two buggies ago I had zuk that was 4 linked on air bags that I built. It's in my 1.1 pics check it out. I likes the zukis
Jake
looks sweet this is my latest ride! currenty under the knife again!



YJJPWrangler look at the shock angles


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Old 02-24-2010, 10:54 PM   #18
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Holy Thread Hijack Batman haha...thanks for posting those man...makes me miss my old YJ that I had and it lets me see that shock angle. Well I was feeling froggy today so I went ahead and made a triangulated 4link front and rear. I was able to make do with a 3" piece of 4-40 allthread but I've got on order a 3' stick of it so I will be able to run it the full length of the skid plate. The notches on either side will have a nice sleeve of stainless so nothing gets caught up. Here are some pics.





I also played around with the shock angles as well. I took the longer shocks from the rear and moved them to the front and mounted them up on the shock hoop crosspiece. Is this what you guys were talking about?







Here are some flex shots.






After moving the shocks around, my ride height dropped to right around 2.65 or so. I like this alot better as it should sidehill/climb better. Keep the comments/suggestions coming!

This thing is looking mean!

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Old 02-25-2010, 12:08 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YJJPWrangler View Post
Holy Thread Hijack Batman haha...thanks for posting those man...makes me miss my old YJ that I had and it lets me see that shock angle. Well I was feeling froggy today so I went ahead and made a triangulated 4link front and rear. I was able to make do with a 3" piece of 4-40 allthread but I've got on order a 3' stick of it so I will be able to run it the full length of the skid plate. The notches on either side will have a nice sleeve of stainless so nothing gets caught up. Here are some pics.





I also played around with the shock angles as well. I took the longer shocks from the rear and moved them to the front and mounted them up on the shock hoop crosspiece. Is this what you guys were talking about?







Here are some flex shots.






After moving the shocks around, my ride height dropped to right around 2.65 or so. I like this alot better as it should sidehill/climb better. Keep the comments/suggestions coming!

This thing is looking mean!

sorry.. Now the shocks look much better. Looks real good I likey
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Old 02-25-2010, 12:16 AM   #20
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I think 2.65 is good both mine are set at 2 5/8" (2.625) And at the last comp they really sidehill'd great. I think your good at that height.

Jake
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