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02-09-2011, 11:03 AM
| #1 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: IDK
Posts: 852
|  XR universals in AX10 axles...
Anyone tried it out yet? Been out of crawling for about a year now but still have lots of ax10 parts lieingaround. Im thinking if you shorten and weld the xr10 axles back you can get as short as you want. So... Anyone? Thanks guys  |
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02-09-2011, 11:36 AM
| #2 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Winnipeg
Posts: 1,296
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Egressor? idk how to spell it but look around in the last couple pages... it's his sportsman rig.
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02-09-2011, 11:54 AM
| #3 |
| Newbie Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Everett area
Posts: 15
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02-11-2011, 05:10 PM
| #4 |
| Quarry Creeper  Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Wheeling
Posts: 454
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i done this mod, but keep snapping the welds on the axles. I am going to slip a piece of brake line tubing over it to give more material to weld to. never thought i would justify using a $800 220v mig on an r/c ever...  |
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02-12-2011, 02:09 PM
| #5 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: SLC
Posts: 89
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why weld? just cut and grind.
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02-12-2011, 10:40 PM
| #6 | |
| Shelf queen  Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Internet
Posts: 5,857
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02-14-2011, 08:51 PM
| #7 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Wheeling
Posts: 454
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brake line that i had left over from sleeving links worked perfect. the only down side, your bearing is there to stay, so keep the welding blanket over it and make sure its a clean spinner before trapping it forever. |
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02-25-2011, 06:39 PM
| #8 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Ontario
Posts: 579
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Do the XR10 universals work with the ax10 knucles and c hubs??
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02-26-2011, 07:18 AM
| #9 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Wheeling
Posts: 454
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havent tried that, doubtful tho, they stick out past the axle a bit more. good thing tho, the bearings are the same size, no need to buy different ones unless you want to freshen up the build while youre at it. |
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02-26-2011, 07:32 AM
| #10 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Chico now
Posts: 2,384
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You don't need to weld, just cut and grind. I have found that welding on them makes them brittle.
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02-26-2011, 07:39 AM
| #11 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Wheeling
Posts: 454
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and you don't generate heat from cutting and grinding them down? plus its hard to add metal back without welding.... just sayin' |
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02-26-2011, 07:45 AM
| #12 | |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Chico now
Posts: 2,384
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02-26-2011, 07:54 AM
| #13 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Wheeling
Posts: 454
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I'm using the fast lane machining lockers. don't care for the pinion size setscrews in them. they don't stay tight at all. i actually cut down a stock axial end link slug and used it for the screw location by the gear. thinking about going with egressor's lockers. much beefier. i wound up using stock dogbone ends cause the xr's were not as big at the ends. kinda wish i had steel lockers and just weld them all in completely! after testing the setup out now, i like how it works, the right side is holding up but the left had to be beefed up quite a bit. probably since the right side has less traction from torque twist. can't wait to get it on some rocks. |
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02-27-2011, 08:27 AM
| #14 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Paradise
Posts: 145
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Has any one tried this with ax10 hubs and or knuckles? I already got alumni stuff and don't want to have to buy all new parts
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02-27-2011, 08:38 AM
| #15 | |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Chico now
Posts: 2,384
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04-25-2011, 09:45 PM
| #16 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Central Coast
Posts: 667
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Bumping this thread. Searching has only turned up a couple results. Seems everyone I found was switching the shafts/ C's/ knuckles all together. Can you use AX10 C's and knuckles if you clearance them to fit the larger XR universals in? I'm assuming they are not that much larger than the stock dog bones. Anyone know the outside diameter of the XR u-joints? Does the XR shafts have the same pivot point location as the AX10 dog bones or will there be binding issues? |
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04-25-2011, 10:14 PM
| #17 | |
| Im Brandon   Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Colfax, CA
Posts: 8,156
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04-26-2011, 12:59 AM
| #18 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Germany north
Posts: 1,669
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04-26-2011, 01:07 AM
| #19 | |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: USA
Posts: 11,196
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04-26-2011, 04:34 AM
| #20 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Alburtis
Posts: 1,227
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I can't believe I just found this thread. I recently finished this same conversion on my new class 3 scaler. No upgraded aluminum parts just what I had laying around and some random pieces here and there. I used the Gunnar Beef Toobs to allow me to move the chubs .250" further out. This made it east to grind the flats, while still keeping enough engagement. The chubs and knuckles are upside down. This placed the drag link in a better spot for me, since it is now out front. I tried behind the axle steering, but my pan hard bar was in the way. So, I did a traditional steering set up. Pretty easy mod once you work out a few bugs. Here are pics in mock up. I am still waiting for my Ti links to arrive. Wes |
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