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Thread: sportsman rebuild & upgrayedd

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Old 02-11-2011, 05:30 PM   #1
Quarry Creeper
 
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Default sportsman rebuild & upgrayedd

So i completely redone the sportsman. CDW Chump Chassis v1.0 for axial trans. unknown aluminum shocks with integy internal springs, ran outside. fuel tubing as snubbers on the shafts outside. 55/60 weight oil. needing UD gears in the back, but does fine with OD's up front right now.

XR-10 knuckles/C's/universals cut N welded short, dogbone ends welded for the FLM lockers (no screws needed, super snug) and Beef Toobs inside.

DNA front and rear upper plates, custom 8/32 links with Crapsass ends. lowers are 5.5cm front and 7cm rear. biases weight towards front, damn near stands straight up before breakover. very low COG. used stock ax-10 battery plate mounts for body mounts- screws hold the body on. very clean look.
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Old 02-11-2011, 10:13 PM   #2
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very nice, any shots with a body. I used those holes recently to mount up an XR10 body on my AX10, perfect spots. That thing has some awesome castor too.
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Old 02-14-2011, 08:47 PM   #3
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as requested...
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Old 02-14-2011, 08:52 PM   #4
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Very nice dood. I like the caster angle you have there too. What is it about +15 degrees?

Casey
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Old 02-14-2011, 08:59 PM   #5
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i think its close to 15, maybe a little more, but the kingpins are angled, and at full lock, it magnifies the caster. i'll just be happy that the universals dont snap again
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Old 02-14-2011, 10:10 PM   #6
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Well since you topped it off with a bug, It's bloody perfect. Looks the business .
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Old 04-22-2011, 09:29 PM   #7
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just to chime in with an update : XR10 universal ends at the locker side are marginally smaller than AX10 dogbone ends. I am going to order a few more universals from both rigs and weld up several axles for spares. sux to trap a bearing, but you can cut it free if you have to just that the universal wont be used again. i'm not trying to drill out 6 rosette welds to reuse a $3 part.

this setup crawled and descended rocks with ease, and butter smooth. i am not even inclined to add a rear underdrive yet, unless to create a better constant dig for steering purposes. I have moved the servo way over almost to the center of the plate and the tire clears it now. with caster on par with a mercedes road car, servo efforts are not as hard as before. also going down hill it corrects the angle and improves attack geometry.
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Old 04-23-2011, 03:01 AM   #8
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Man,where the hell you been? I was starting think you weren't crawling anymore. You going to make it to the next comp? Theres a few of us heading up to the Boulder House next weekend!
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Old 04-23-2011, 08:14 AM   #9
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i should be able to make it back out soon lots of things been taking my time and resources all at once. i picked a crappy time to buy a new car , just when gas prices start to soar. a few small fixes on the sportsman and I'll be back in business. i would love to check out the boulder house. friends of mine from down in the kanawha valley have gone with their scalers.
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Old 06-16-2011, 09:41 AM   #10
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done another round of upgrayedds!!

special thanks to rigrocker, i'm sporting some FF lockers. now this is slop free for good!

freshened up the XR10 mods with new C's still in plastic. holes drilled more carefully this time and hardware length checked for no axle binds. reclocked front axle a bit for better battery clearance and caster, duratrash evader 4" shocks and 60 wt oil . going to need softer springs though. 4" clearance at skid right now. need some kinda better steering links to get more throw and less ackerman. added underdrive to rear axle.
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Old 06-20-2011, 12:49 PM   #11
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after its maiden voyage, I am very impressed with its capabilities from the UD gears and FF lockers. snapped another welded XR stub, no need for them now, the lockers will accept the whole damned 1/4" brake line tube now. will notch the ends to accept the setscrew and call it a day. almost ready to step up to super 300s and axlemaster rear axles but dont want to spend the price just to have a spare set of lockers... cant believe I am breaking these with 3s and a Novak 55t. meanwhile the stock plastic trans gears are still like new.
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Old 06-21-2011, 12:58 PM   #12
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It looks good,I think you should try lowering it a bit.I believe that chassis was designed to run a shorter bent link. With the bent links you would set it up so that the longer side of the links are level to the ground. Take a look at Eviltwin's Sportsman.
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Old 06-21-2011, 02:11 PM   #13
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hence the reason why i prefer the bwd wedge chassis setups... bent delrin links. it seemed to crawl good with the height and not affect side hilling or top heaviness. we shall see....
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Old 06-28-2011, 08:08 AM   #14
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from trying to see why my links or measurements just seem to not add up, its the chassis. its bent all to hell. given there isnt much of a chassis to speak of,i am not surprised at all. might change out to an AX10 shafty wedge,with a 2.2 DUB topper....
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Old 06-29-2011, 10:09 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ClassicGMJunkie View Post
from trying to see why my links or measurements just seem to not add up, its the chassis. its bent all to hell. given there isnt much of a chassis to speak of,i am not surprised at all. might change out to an AX10 shafty wedge,with a 2.2 DUB topper....
That is an excellant choice for a chassis. I had one,and if it wasn't for me breaking CVD's,and even stock dog bone axles everytime I ran it,I would prolly still have it!...............hmm,I wonder whats in these boxes in my mailbox. They are labeled SDS,Billet-Works,and RC Axlemaster!
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Old 06-30-2011, 07:38 AM   #16
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that must have been a mistake in shipping, those boxes ought to be on my doorstep

yeah rcaxlemaster rears are probably in the near future. getting used to underdrive rear gears now, and finally got some shocks to work and not leak or bind. giddy as a school girl over the FF lockers installed now. working on steering link, ran one across to the far side of the servo location but I need a Hitec servo programmer now, I cant reach the throw of the full lock to lock steering with it the way it is. rather bullshit that it only has 45 degrees of use out of the box.

seems like its an eternity between comps....
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Old 07-08-2011, 08:17 PM   #17
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fabbed up a longer servo horn, so now i can make use of the ability the knuckles have. had to clip the insides of the rovers to keep from hanging up on the springs. going to visit Evil Twin for some integy 3.5"s and get this thing out of the nosebleed section
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Old 07-11-2011, 10:48 AM   #18
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got the rig out of the nosebleed section with some *borrowed* MSR11 3.5" Integy shocks and some bent lowers. Had I not suffered from rectal-cranial inversion due to heat exhaustion, I might had done really well at the comp with it. placed 5th but I could have done way better.

Never knew how well it would still pull crazy lines with very little articulation compared to a 4"shock. then again, COG is much lower now, too..

didn't break, but had a stupid mistake of a servo plug coming loose from the BEC harness. that ate up 20 pts...
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Old 07-12-2011, 06:50 PM   #19
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rig done awesome back down where it belonged. Evil Twin was dead set that he had 4" LCC shocks on his chump, but when dissected, were 3.5s taking many different shocks to complete. we added some custom alum lowers in the rear, and got the skid at a nice stance. used shock balls to stand off the body in the front to keep it from hindering the low cog articulation.

bonehead mistakes caused by the heat of the 90+* sun had me "letting my rig down" cause it was more capable than I was that day.
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Old 07-12-2011, 07:46 PM   #20
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It looks much better at that stance. I learned a while back that less articulation works much better than more. Especially at places like Yorkville.It will help carry a tire over a gap,rather than let it get sucked in. Now that theory doesn't always work,but it will more times than not.
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