3Racing CVD's

[Duuuuuuuude]

So I got my 3Racing cvd's and Vanquish knuckles, and there is a ton of in/out movement with the cvd's. I've tried shimming, but to no avail.

Putting shims behind the hex pin pulls the shaft out where it will bind when it approaches full lock, and putting shims behind the outer bearing does nothing other than allowing the shaft to push the bearing out.

Is there a better way to do this or just let it be?

I may try my old Axial knuckles and see what happens...

[Erin]

Not sure about shimming, but how do these compare strength wise to axial cvds? Any beefier?

[Duuuuuuuude]

Originally Posted by Erin

Not sure about shimming, but how do these compare strength wise to axial cvds? Any beefier?

I have no clue. Up until now I've been using modified dog bones.


I ended up cutting out some brass shims to go between the knuckle and the inner bearing. Seemed to take out quite a bit of movement and keeps the shaft where it needs to be.

[gunnar]

Broke a couple awhile back:

[Dasher]

Im using them Duuuuude, not snapped yet and I've had them bound up enough to kick in the slipper - and the slipper is set pretty tight - Gunnar's pic tells me to be careful though. I also have a ton of slop and am just running with it - there's not enough to allow things to fall out. I'm using the Hot Racing "c"s and knuckles. I'm not running Toobs yet , will be soon - so I can't say whether that will change the slop or not,

[shizzz]

3Racing comes from the same catalogs with integy.
Be careful with them.
Since i installed integy's rear lockouts the shaft was playing inside, so i made the some plastic spacers. It works great, but this is not normal anyway

[jimmyshor]

Man, your CVD's look just like mine. Total crap, waste of money. As soon as i have some time i'll post some pictures too see what i mean....

[Duuuuuuuude]

I went out and put the hurting to them today and eventually broke a pin. Or, I'm assuming I broke a pin. I heard a pop and the right front wheel had no power. However, when I got home and took it apart there was no pin or really any damage to speak of at all. Just a missing pin. Weird.

[Ty]

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

I went out and put the hurting to them today and eventually broke a pin. Or, I'm assuming I broke a pin. I heard a pop and the right front wheel had no power. However, when I got home and took it apart there was no pin or really any damage to speak of at all. Just a missing pin. Weird.

I had the same thing happen to me. I think it breaks the pin and the 2 pieces fall out. I made some new pins for them and have not had any more problems.

[RickM]

What about shoving something down inside the axle locker to push the axle itself out into the knucle bearing? Obviously having the cvd hinge at the knuckle hinge is critical.

[Duuuuuuuude]

Originally Posted by RickM

What about shoving something down inside the axle locker to push the axle itself out into the knucle bearing? Obviously having the cvd hinge at the knuckle hinge is critical.

If that were the case, I could just add a shim or two between the shaft and the bearing in the end of the axle, but that pushes it past the pivot point of the knuckle, and binds it up.

[KC_JoNeS]

I run the 3Racing CVDs with gunnar pins. The pins are slightler longer than stock, forcing you to really push the collar over the pin. This holds everything in place very well.

As for slop, the beef toobs and VP knuckles seems to be the best way to cure that. This combination seems to put more pressure on the bearing....one reason you cannot use the dog bones with toobs & VP knuckles.

[Dasher]

My 3Racing pins are a really loose fit Duuuuuuuude and I'm surprised that I've not lost one completely let given the combination of loose pins and slop. I'm going to put Gunnars pins and Toobs in mine - I know that the Super 300's do the trick but they're soooooo expensive!

[jimmyshor]

Here are my pics:




The pin just keeps poppin' out, because the ring does not stay still where it should be. Switched for Axial's, there is no comparison between. I tested the new Axial CVD;s - outstanding. 3Racing just failed when i put some stress on them (the dig unit in my case). This is my 3rd product from 3Racing that i bought and i'm not happy with the choice i made, so from now on, 3Racing is not anymore on my RC parts suppliers.

PS. Take a close look at the holes where the pin enters, as they got bigger as they were forced, so i think the material used is poor quality.

[gunnar]

Most pins for CVD's(as well as most other applications) are too short. The OD of the cup is 10mm, the ring should be 10.01mm. That's why I make my pins as long as possible, to engage the walls of the cup better, and also to prevent slop. The cup walls are pretty thin on a 3R, so the holes wear out fast.

The 3R's arent so bad really, I've broken 6 sets of MIP's

[jimmyshor]

To be honnest, i'll avoid 3R in future. Not worth my money !

[brazwewn]

Just catching up on this thread. I have been running the crap out of these for months with no problem (looking for wood to knock). As a matter if fact I just ordered two more sets for my next project, class 3 rear steer Jeep JK. If I have problems I will make sure to get the longer pins.

Wes

[sierrajim]

Originally Posted by gunnar

Most pins for CVD's(as well as most other applications) are too short. The OD of the cup is 10mm, the ring should be 10.01mm. That's why I make my pins as long as possible, to engage the walls of the cup better, and also to prevent slop. The cup walls are pretty thin on a 3R, so the holes wear out fast.

The 3R's arent so bad really, I've broken 6 sets of MIP's

I've had similar issues in my scaler. Spitting pins on a regular basis. The 3racing ring made of alloy seems to have worn allowing the pins to drop out.

Just need some access to a lathe to make some HD rings.