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05-31-2011, 09:13 PM | #1 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: gastonia
Posts: 295
| Home Brew bodyless chassis
So as some people know Ive been lerking on here brewing up my own ideas for just about anything and everything. Im gonna make a attempt at a bodyless chassis and was wondering should I go super skinny..Just enough for tranny and electronics..or something thats been built say a GC3 or what have ya. I know its gonna be as short as possible.hight wise and as short as possible length wise but the rest is a mystery??? geometry of links and such should be sorta of straight foward and I do have enough for a few attempts but any tid bits tricks n such would be welcome. I have searched different chassis and everything just want some outside ideas on what works or not cause this is a one off and I need a decent base line to start from |
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05-31-2011, 09:30 PM | #2 |
Suck it up! Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Arkansas
Posts: 11,652
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Can't wait. You should probably review the comp rules and build within those specs. There are minimum height, width, and length requirements. |
05-31-2011, 09:51 PM | #3 |
Tossin' Salad Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Petaluma
Posts: 1,826
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Here is some basic info for you. 1. Height from base of chassis to top... 3.75" 2. Width minimum at any 1 point of the chassis... 3" 3. Length minimum to be at 8" 4. Height from where the hood meets the A pillar to the roof minimum of 1" That is a good starting point. There are a couple more things, but these are your main ones. Casey |
05-31-2011, 11:07 PM | #4 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: gastonia
Posts: 295
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yep yep got those down.. figure this should be easy to rough out then tweak n fine tune to my likeings.....will post pics but dunno how long it will be
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05-31-2011, 11:09 PM | #5 |
Suck it up! Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Arkansas
Posts: 11,652
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Its not nice to tease. |
05-31-2011, 11:28 PM | #6 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: San Francisco
Posts: 1,927
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Its awesome to see someone else custom fabbing stuff Decided on material yet *cough Delrin* If your going to go so far as to make an upper, why not do a chassis while your at it I personally like having my shocks semi-laid back and I like to keep the links as low as possible like on a GC3 and FF-4... works really REALLY good! As for narrow, just remember you have to deal with body panels and they sometimes don't like to bend around motors! My rig is running .7" narrower than the stock one {about 2.75" wide} and it makes a HUGE difference crawling, I could go narrower but ive decided not, for now Just do whatever suits your fancy, its your rig |
06-01-2011, 07:57 AM | #7 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: gastonia
Posts: 295
| Im not a tease getting the base line stuff down before I even start and yes derlins the choice on material for everything topper chassis and lower links couple of rule questions is there a lenght or width on the skid or can somewhere else be 3" and still be legal? say 3" at the shock mounts and everything else skinny does it matter where the topper is mounted "foward or back on chassis" or is it just 8" long all together? Im thinking of mounting the electronis right above the tranny on its own platform..shouldnt account for that much on CG biais should it?? Thats it so far unless someone suggests something else |
06-01-2011, 08:55 AM | #8 | |
No idea what I'm doing Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Underground, CO
Posts: 4,529
| Quote:
You can mount the top anywhere you like, as long as the chassis is at least 8" long. | |
06-01-2011, 11:10 AM | #9 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: gastonia
Posts: 295
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chassis height is the chassis alone or does it include the topper part? sorry stupid questions but I do want to be with in specs and have never actually comped before |
06-01-2011, 01:47 PM | #10 | |
No idea what I'm doing Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Underground, CO
Posts: 4,529
| Quote:
Good luck and I'm looking forward to see what you come up with | |
06-01-2011, 04:12 PM | #11 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: gastonia
Posts: 295
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mkay when the shop cools down Ill be on to sketching the derlin. then off to wal mart tomarrow for some jig saw blades and cutting tomarrow night few hints to those who cant wait. 1 It will be bodiless 2 it will be derlin 3 figuring 1 peice chassis plates. skin/actual structure 4 it will has Qs from other bodiless chassis 5 think stock XR body/fast back for the shape there ya go hope you can figure it out |
06-01-2011, 06:26 PM | #12 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: gastonia
Posts: 295
| Ieght guys basicly I used the stock ax chassis plate for mock up..NOW CHOOSE.. which TOPPER looks cooler 1 or 2?? |
06-01-2011, 06:31 PM | #13 |
Suck it up! Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Arkansas
Posts: 11,652
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#2 will probably recover better. I'd go with that one. I'd also not use the stock chassis as a template for too much. The upper link geometry could be much better. Last edited by Duuuuuuuude; 06-01-2011 at 07:15 PM. |
06-01-2011, 07:13 PM | #14 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: gastonia
Posts: 295
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uhhh which ones # and yeah I used just where the links connect for a skid reference and honestly with my home made 4 link in the rear I love the link location. little to stiff up front but works just fine AND PLEASE EXCUSE THE SH**Y DRAWINGS ITS A ROUGH DRAWING.... |
06-01-2011, 07:15 PM | #15 |
Suck it up! Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Arkansas
Posts: 11,652
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Ha! #2, sorry.
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06-01-2011, 07:18 PM | #16 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Toronto Canada
Posts: 445
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I agree, I think you should make the skid area longer so you can have maybe 1 or 2 more upper link holes (the one you have being the upper most hole). Or you could leave the shape and then just play with link lengths (try keeping upper and lowers close to equal length). I'm no expert and I'm still learning what works and what doesn't but that's just some pointers I've read during my stay at RCC. I'm very biased to the GC3A geometry because it has worked very well for me maybe take a look at that chassis, I just started my OG Frogger build up and I'm really liking the geometry of it aswell.
Last edited by cagedcbr; 06-01-2011 at 07:21 PM. |
06-01-2011, 07:34 PM | #17 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: gastonia
Posts: 295
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heres the link angle I have now on a stock chassis with 4 link from what Ive seen this flat set up works and it works for me. Im going to also attempt some derlin rear links simaler to frog legs if i can figure it out and step up the rear of the skid aswell "front lower than rear" |
06-01-2011, 07:42 PM | #18 |
Tossin' Salad Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Petaluma
Posts: 1,826
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You can always pick up a set of frog legs from me. I made plently of them, and they have the set screws too. Then it is just a case of making your skid the correct length in order to fit the 12.5" maximum wheelbase. Casey |
06-01-2011, 07:52 PM | #19 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: gastonia
Posts: 295
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might be a dumb question KC but how much do they run. I looked on your site for them an didnt see them
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06-01-2011, 07:59 PM | #20 |
Suck it up! Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Arkansas
Posts: 11,652
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For your uppers, you want to make them as close to the same length as the lowers as possible. Chassis width will play a big factor in this, so plan ahead and get as close as you can.
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