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View Poll Results: Are Beef Tubes a necessary upgrade when building a comp crawler?
Yes, a must have! 52 72.22%
Yes, worthwhile but not necessary. 8 11.11%
Wait 'till you break it... 6 8.33%
Nice, but don't need them. 6 8.33%
Voters: 72. You may not vote on this poll

Thread: Beef Tubes

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Old 08-27-2011, 10:25 PM   #21
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http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=268650


found it.
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Old 08-27-2011, 11:08 PM   #22
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Beef toobs are a must in the front for sure. I had them in the back but didn't like the extra weight so I removed them. Never had in problems.
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Old 08-29-2011, 08:46 PM   #23
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Ordered me a set!
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Old 08-29-2011, 08:53 PM   #24
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In a similar effort, I basically built my own tubes. I highly recommend them for all the reasons everyone else said.

now I need some help from all you guys. I clocked my axles tonight using my tubes etc. I am running the standard vp knuckles and now when I crank in the BTA turning my knuckle hits the outside mounting point for my shocks and links. I am thinking a button head screw is a start but I might have a potential problem headed my way. Anyone else have any similar problems and solutions?

RickM
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Old 08-29-2011, 09:34 PM   #25
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In a similar effort, I basically built my own tubes. I highly recommend them for all the reasons everyone else said.

now I need some help from all you guys. I clocked my axles tonight using my tubes etc. I am running the standard vp knuckles and now when I crank in the BTA turning my knuckle hits the outside mounting point for my shocks and links. I am thinking a button head screw is a start but I might have a potential problem headed my way. Anyone else have any similar problems and solutions?

RickM
I'd say you have plenty of steering then! Just make sure there is no drivetrain binding at full lock, shouldn't be a problem if there not.
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Old 08-29-2011, 09:57 PM   #26
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I was never comfortable threading chubs and lockouts into plastic. Toobs make me feel warm and fuzzy inside now. A must imho
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Old 08-30-2011, 08:58 AM   #27
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Why have just plenty when you could have WAY more. I know my cvd's can handle some more throw and we are whipping up a fun sportsman class this year, so a dig is not an option. I will play around with it some tonight and keep you all posted.

RickM
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Old 08-30-2011, 09:33 AM   #28
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BTA setups start getting difficult after clocking, you can use zero-ack knucks to get some more room for steering throw. After that, other parts might have to be moved to achieve full lock. I'm sure you'll figure it out.
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Old 08-30-2011, 11:30 AM   #29
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Here is an idea. Has anyone ever tried to bend(upward) the knuckle arm to get it out of the way of the shocks/links?

RickM
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Old 08-30-2011, 11:36 AM   #30
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Here is an idea. Has anyone ever tried to bend(upward) the knuckle arm to get it out of the way of the shocks/links?

RickM
I have seen a few guys bend the Egressor (sp?) knuckles for clearance and see quite a few do it with the MRC
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Old 08-30-2011, 09:32 PM   #31
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I think I got it. Pics to come.
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Old 08-31-2011, 08:00 AM   #32
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Without beef toobs, my sportsman's XR10 knuckle/C hub conversion would not survive a minute, nor would it be able to be clocked as it is. Its still holding up on plastic XR parts. gotta have the toobs !!
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Old 09-02-2011, 04:49 PM   #33
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Got my set of toobs in mail today, that's fast service! They look good!
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Old 09-02-2011, 07:08 PM   #34
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OK.... I got the message, and just ordered 2 pair for my axles! Thanks for the input guys!
Got them installed, then finished the truck. Have to mount/wire the electronics. Otherwise, chassis is done. Have to paint the new body, but I can use the RTR body I got with the truck. Picks will follow shortly.
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Old 09-03-2011, 07:06 PM   #35
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[IMG][/IMG]

Very nice, anyone know what length m3 screws to use to bolt them up? Mines all put together just need screws...
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Old 09-03-2011, 07:11 PM   #36
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[IMG]Very nice, anyone know what length m3 screws to use to bolt them up? Mines all put together just need screws...
Usually a 3X8. You just need to check that the screws do not contact the axles inside.
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Old 11-11-2013, 05:39 PM   #37
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Usually a 3X8. You just need to check that the screws do not contact the axles inside.
IME 3x8 is too long; something around 3x6 is better. Of course you could always cut to length or run washers, but I want to keep that area pretty low pro personally.

Edit: this is my experience on the wraith. 3x8 may be just right for other axles.
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Old 11-11-2013, 10:57 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by Crawl Space View Post
IME 3x8 is too long; something around 3x6 is better. Of course you could always cut to length or run washers, but I want to keep that area pretty low pro personally.

Edit: this is my experience on the wraith. 3x8 may be just right for other axles.
Its been 2 years. I think they've got it figured out by now.
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Old 11-12-2013, 02:35 AM   #39
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Its been 2 years. I think they've got it figured out by now.
Yeah, but that's not the point. How many people buy the 8mm length and have to take them back? I did. This reply was more for posterity than anything else. I hate those dead-end threads where the answer never gets posted. Makes using the search function a lot more efficient
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