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Thread: VP knuckles and 8deg C hubs

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Old 10-25-2011, 02:12 AM   #1
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Default VP knuckles and 8deg C hubs

I just got my VP zero ackerman knuckles and 8deg C hubs.
Now Im the fisrt to admit Im a newbie so I need some help.
In pulling down my diff to instal the beef toobs at the same time Im looking at my new C hubs thinking they are exactly the same caster?? as the stock c hubs.

Are the standard hubs 8deg already? I thought buy buying these it would change the castor.
Any ideas?
Nik
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Old 10-25-2011, 02:32 AM   #2
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Just found it Im looking at mounting holes to the axle tube not the c hubs to knckle holes
Nik
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Old 10-25-2011, 12:52 PM   #3
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I still may need help, are these designed to work together?
I couldve sworn I read a thread on it but I cant find any info on it and it looks to anglethe end of the axle up or down (depending which way its mounted)
Thanks Nik
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Old 10-25-2011, 01:03 PM   #4
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you need the 8* knuckles to use the 8* c hubs.
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Old 10-25-2011, 01:40 PM   #5
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The beef tubes give you caster the hubs give you camber.
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Old 10-25-2011, 01:50 PM   #6
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What kind of castor numbers work with these? I use to run 18-20 degrees in my GC3a sporty but would adding these allow taking out some castor? Sorry don't mean to hi-jack but it is kind of related.
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Old 10-25-2011, 01:58 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nik6189 View Post
I just got my VP zero ackerman knuckles and 8deg C hubs.
Now Im the fisrt to admit Im a newbie so I need some help.
In pulling down my diff to instal the beef toobs at the same time Im looking at my new C hubs thinking they are exactly the same caster?? as the stock c hubs.

Are the standard hubs 8deg already? I thought buy buying these it would change the castor.
Any ideas?
Nik
Using the stock ax10 axle c hub mounting points the VP 8 degree hubs come with 10 degrees of castor. The Axial C's you have in the picture can be setup for 0 or 10 degrees of castor because they have 2 mounting holes. The VPs only have one so you are stuck with 10 degrees of c hub castor. You can always get some more or less with some beef tubes because you can drill those where ever you want.

The 8 degree hubs change the inclination of the knuckle kingpin angle.
Instead of the straight up and down knuckle mounting points, the 8 degress are at an angle.

non 8 degree knuckle mounting points:
|ax10 axle|

8 degree knuckle mounting points:
/ax10 axle\

Last edited by helhedded; 10-25-2011 at 02:00 PM.
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Old 10-25-2011, 05:19 PM   #8
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The knuckles I just got are vp 8 deg and I got zero ackerman knuckles as there wasn't much info on the site. Now I have them im not sure they can be used together. although if I did it would make the wheels sit like the above picture. So what'd the benifit? I thought it was 8 deg camber when I ordered them. If they ate suitable I can still clock them as I'm putting in beef toobs at the same time.
Thanks Nik
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Old 10-25-2011, 06:36 PM   #9
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That above diagram does NOT represent the wheels. It merely represents the mounting points for your knuckles.

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/vanqu...ghlight=degree
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Old 10-25-2011, 08:16 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nik6189 View Post
The knuckles I just got are vp 8 deg and I got zero ackerman knuckles as there wasn't much info on the site. Now I have them im not sure they can be used together. although if I did it would make the wheels sit like the above picture. So what'd the benifit? I thought it was 8 deg camber when I ordered them. If they ate suitable I can still clock them as I'm putting in beef toobs at the same time.
Thanks Nik
VP's regular zero ackerman knuckles WILL NOT work with the 8* C-hub. The 8* knuckle that works with the 8* C-hub is of a zero ackerman design.

The 8* inclination is actually in reference to the knigpin, NOT cvaster or camber. This kingpin angle reduces tire scrub by moving the pivot/rotation of the tires more towards the center of the wheel's/tire's contact patch, making it easier for the servo to turn the tires. In a normal, non-8* inclination knuckle/C-hub setup, the servo is forced to swing the tire around the kingpin's pivot point/rotational axis.

Last edited by TSK; 10-26-2011 at 01:32 AM.
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Old 10-25-2011, 09:26 PM   #11
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Cool thanks for that now its all clear. Shame it didn't have that on the website. It's a well made product well packaged but not much info. Now I gave to wait another 3 weeks for the right parts (postage to Australia vp posted ASAP) bummer. What's the best option change the knuckles or c hubs?
Thanks Nik
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Old 10-26-2011, 12:10 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nik6189 View Post
... Shame it didn't have that on the website....What's the best option change the knuckles or c hubs?
Shame on you for not checking into the products you are about to buy further. VP might just list the products, but all the information is here, a few searches could have helped greatly. If you compare photos of both kinds of hubs/knuckles, even a dummy like me can see the differences instantly.

You have the C's now, so get the 8 degree knuckles.

Don't get too crazy with the clocking, or steering setups will get tougher to fab up. With the 8 degree parts, around 15 degrees from vertical would be about the most I'd run.
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Old 10-26-2011, 12:25 AM   #13
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Lol I searched and looked so much my wife asked was I having an affair.. obviously I looked in the wrong spot. Yes I can clearly see the difference now.
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Old 12-10-2011, 01:23 PM   #14
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Does anyone else that runs this setup have trouble steering?
Since installing these its like Ive gone back to a cheap servo it wont turn when bound up only when moving forwards. I set the BEC to 6.5v and its still the same (Im running a hitec 7995).
It moves freely when I lift the car up and it turns on flat stuff?
My first thought was the bolts where too tight but Ive ran them that loose they nearly fall out and its the same.
Nik
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