SSS-R tuning

[Nik6189]

Ive been using my SSS-R chassis for awhile now and Im loving it.
But I drove my bros crawler and I loved the non exsistent torgue twist so Im trying to fine tune mine more. Has anyone got thoughts/experience tuning this?
This is a pic how it sits today the rear lowers are mounted to the outside of the diff mount closest to the wheel. With the rear uppers mounted to the inner holes on the diff and outside the chassis on the chassis end.
The front lowers are still in the shock mount on the diff but are on the inside of the spacer to give room for the cvds. The uppers are inner holes on the diff and outside the chassis on the chassis end.
Hopefully the pics show the rest,

Thanks Nik

[asw27x]

it would help to have a picture from the back of the crawler looking forward and a picture with the rear tire off to see the angle of the rear uppers

but from looking at what i can see i would say spread your rear upper links out on the axle end and try to get them level or have the spot were they hook to the axle be a little higher then on the chassis

[Nik6189]

I,ll get some picks tonight. I think the upper links front and rear are parallel to the ground. Il try what you suggested.
Thanks Nik

[Highlucks]

Hey Nik, are you running over and under drive gears in your axles. these will help to eliminate a lot of the TT. Unfortunately you will always get a little bit of TT with an AX10 setup but a lot of it can be removed.

I had very little TT in mine when I was running it. Here are some photos that show my link setup.

[Nik6189]

Hey mate Ive read you build thread like a bible and copied your link placement but I still had it, maybe Im expecting to much?
Its not that bad and I can control it and work around it when time permits (not comping ) but when you against the clock Id like it to be a bit more point and shoot.
Yes I have OD/UD set up and its great
Is it possible to tune it out and still have flex? My bros vennom runs the "normal" sprung set up and it can flex but is well planted on climbs.
Ive moved the rear uppers to the outer most holes on the diff plate and the front uppers to the middle hole on the front diff plate.


I havnt had a chance to test this yet but it seems to have cut done on flex (which is ok buy me as long as it climbs well)
Nik

[opek]

I found a soft front end reduces TT a whole lot. If you look at your 'springs' you can move the mounting location further away from the center of the chassis to gain more lever arm on it - making it softer. I would try softening it up.

[Nik6189]

Cool thanks Ive only just stiffened it up to see how it affected TT if at all.
But now Ive moved other links I,ll put them back out to soften it.
Hopefully I,ll get to test it tonight.
Nik

[opek]

Originally Posted by Nik6189

Cool thanks Ive only just stiffened it up to see how it affected TT if at all.
But now Ive moved other links I,ll put them back out to soften it.
Hopefully I,ll get to test it tonight.
Nik

You can also move the spring further out on the link itself to gain a bigger lever arm. I would try the rears softest top, med/soft bot; fronts softest all around and see if you have reduced TT, then go from there.

Also lowering your upper links at the chassis will increase anti-squat and reduce TT. You can set your drivers side rear upper link to be lower on the chassis than the passenger side rear upper - this will twist the chassis the opposite direction lessening TT.

Try changing nothing but the front stiffness, first. I bet you will be surprised by how much that will affect the TT. On my wire rack test incline I can wad up the rear tires and climb a little bit harder with a stiffer front, but on smooth sufaces I tend to get a bit more traction, and the damn thing is a lot better going sideways when the front can stay down.

[Nik6189]

Awsome tech thanks. Ivr searched sss-r but never get much tech on tuning the chassis. Cant wait to get home and try it out.
Nik

[Nik6189]

I moved the links around and it flexes enough and has no TT unless a rear tyre gets the outer lugs stuck on somthing then it twists.
Im getting some lepoards to try so I,ll see if the lack of side lugs makes a difference.
Nik

[TSK]

Are you running any front wheel weights?

Once i added a bunch of weight to the front end (via knuckle weights) that the front end stayed much more planted even though i'm running a 10t full size puller on 3s. the chassis still looks like it's trying to twist, but the wheels stay planted.

Tuning a torsion chassis with wheel/knuckle/lockout weights is much easier than messing with alot of link geometry changes. Especially if you have a chassis "in the ball park"

[opek]

Originally Posted by TheSCorpionKing

Are you running any front wheel weights?

Once i added a bunch of weight to the front end (via knuckle weights) that the front end stayed much more planted even though i'm running a 10t full size puller on 3s. the chassis still looks like it's trying to twist, but the wheels stay planted.

Tuning a torsion chassis with wheel/knuckle/lockout weights is much easier than messing with alot of link geometry changes. Especially if you have a chassis "in the ball park"

I always assumed what made the SSR awesome is the 4 link which would give you all of those simple tuning solutions.

[Nik6189]

At the moment Im running 200g in each front plus 80g on the knuckle and beef toobs.
Is that about right. I'm running a 980kv outrunner at the moment but I have a HH 35t torque master coming.
Nik

[TSK]

Originally Posted by opek

I always assumed what made the SSR awesome is the 4 link which would give you all of those simple tuning solutions.

It is quite an adjustable chassis, but there are almost too many options. Which is why if one is able to get the overall handling of the truck "in the ballpark" then it is easiest to fine tune it with weight.

Also, due to the high pinion angle on the rear, to take advantage of most of the rear link plate options, you will need to heat the uppers and bend them a bit. Doing so however, effectively shrtens them, which screws up you rear axle pinion clearance.

So your other options are to make longer links to maintain the pinion clearance relative to each link mount position, or you can find what gets you "in the ball park" and just fine tune with weights.

[Nik6189]

Im trying to retune my rig after dumping a heap of weight, 150g out of each wheel, 40g of each front knuckle and taken out the rear toobs.
The rig feels alot more nimble but seems to suffer more TT and on side hills the high side rear unload (not sure if rigt terminolagy but it lets go) and flops the rig over.
Ive moved the rear uppers to the outer most holes on the axle and the "springs" are in the outer axle side holes. Bench testing it feels alot stiffer so it may help.
Is there a point when its to light? I,l try to get up new pics but its pretty similar to above HH 35t and dig with micro servo and the rest of the electrics up front.
Any ideas/tips?
Thanks Nik

[TSK]

On a torsion rig, I fid that "too light" is a bad thing. Since there are no shock oil to dampen the suspension movement, the truck can handle erratically when too light.

Torsion rigs are like sprung trucks with no shock oil and stiff springs. The forces on the suspesion just load and unload, there is no way to dampen or control it's release.

[Nik6189]

I thought it would be somthing like that. It seems to be more planted with knuckle/lockout weights.
Ive nee trying to get the weight as low as possible so I dont need to add much. It definately steers abit easier now though without the extra weight.
Im trying different tires too run some sedonas with sanded sidewalls for abit didnt do it fo me (maybe need more break in time) and now tryinf boss claws cut front standard rear not sure there much better than my cut and sanded rovers.
Nik