My ax10 rtc build

[donhd04]

Originally Posted by qcax10

Hi im new here and wanted to show my ax10 build here
what ive done so far is:
trimming foams insert
trimming body
install upper link plate on front with 2 stripes of 1:1 wheel weight

parts ordered:
axial green aluminium parts
axial rtr hardware upgrade

now i want answers to my questions
1- wich servo is better between futaba s3305 and savox 0251?
2- is this horn fits on aboved named servo? http://www.ebay.ca/itm/230703626096?...ht_1368wt_1110
3-are my proline hammers good on rocks or i need to buy rovers pink dot?
4-do someone know the lenght of this? Axial Racing - Press : Download : Imagery / Press Releases
5- what are the smoothest springs i can put in the front?
6- im thinking of changing the gear ratio with the 10t pinion ant 96t spur, is the spur too big and wont fit?

thank you for reading and answers, tips, opignons

I hope i can help on this matter as I am as we speak going thru the same exact thing.

1. spend the money upfront and be cheaper in the long run, get a hitech 7950th or 7980th. Also I chose a SAVOX 1268sg for the 347oz/in torque for 75$ at LHS. next is a good horn. 11$ from savox and its aluminum and made for it.

2. answered in 1.

3. My hammers worked fairly ok after siping the large solid blocks. However i just installed new sedonas and didn't do one thing to them and they have pulled me thru tons of places the hammers modified wouldn't.

4. Now battery plate. A lot of options here. I say stay with the AXIAL plate but don't buy it seperate. Purchase it in the BTA(behind the axle) steering kit(Axial Racing: AX30533 Behind the Axle Steering (BTA)). Mount it up and drill your holes for the 4 link. The kit is roughly 48$-55$ and includes all your hardware, links, high angle knuckles and rod ends. this gets your steering links up and behind the axle never to be hit again or hung up on. BTW if purchased seperately the cost is over 80$ next get the C hubs and your done with the front.

5. I would purchase the 4" losi comp shocks with soft springs. Seems to be alot of people running them in comps even on the XR10 and bergs. thats what i plan on doing.

6. I can't give any information on axles. haven't ventured that far yet.

7. I just purchased a Castle Creations BEC (battery elimination circuit) check out Castle Creations website. it explains alot.

[Josh_Br]

I am also a new AX10 owner. Here are some links to get good info and ideas, a lot of which are free mods you can do:

1) K.O.M.'s Newbie Comp Build
2) RCCrawler.com- Your #1 source for Radio Controlled Rockcrawling!
3) Budget RTC Build

Have fun

[qcax10]

ok with all reading ive done there is my new list
done:
trim foam and body
mount battery on the servo
tranny mirrored
elctronic on top
put my 4 lower link inner my skidplate

ordered list:
aluminium link kit+hardware
supersoft axial comp shocks red

to order:
axial aluminium c hubs and high steering knucke
hb rovers withe dot
savox sc-0251 with an alu horn

upcoming ideas but not sure
tube frame(fastback 2 or proline)
bta steering
dig

heres some pic of my rig as is today:

[AX10wannabe]

i have the same rig and im running the hammers too but i got some birthday money so thinking im getting buck up and get a decent of tires.. not sure what kind yet though.. im thinking maybe sedona's or maybe even a TSL with stiffer foam.

[Josh_Br]

Your driveshaft angle looks to be a little too much.

[qcax10]

just did my front axle plate with my top battery/esc plate now all is on front and just need holes for 4 links front and rear pics to come

[qcax10]

and all the mods ive done yet costed me a big total of 5$ cdn
sure if i count my ordered parts(still not received) im at 90$ cdn

[donhd04]

I would definately look into a castle creation BEC 10A and run a lipo 3s 11.1v on the front instead of the big NIMH battery. do it all at once with the Axial bta kit. gives you your knuckles, steering links and plate for the battery all in one nice little package.

[donhd04]

Originally Posted by qcax10

just did my front axle plate with my top battery/esc plate now all is on front and just need holes for 4 links front and rear pics to come

I noticed you flipped the tranny instead mirroring it. i could be totally wrong on this but i think you will have to undo that if you ever want to run a dig unit. Mirroring the tranny means to reverse the motor to the other side leaving the pinion gear facing the rear. It took me a few minutes but i finally figured out how to do it. i think i can find the thread on here and post it for you if you need it.
Mirror Imaged Transmission


By mirroring the tranny while looking down on the car from the rear, the stock motor location is on the left rear and when its mirrored its on the right front and the gears are facing toward the rear.
Did you have to redo the polarity on the motor to do that and is your radio triggers reversed now?

[AX10wannabe]

^^ yes i think he does IF he's planning on running a dig. but if he decides not to this is fine, i've flipped my skid and now with the new tires i have very little TT..

so here's an updated list of what i bought with my birthday money:

-went with the Hot Bodies Sedona's, i've seen them work and have used them briefly on a friends crawler mine are getting a sipe job because they side slip too much.

-i went with a hitec 7955TG steering servo, i've also seen these work and have played with them briefly on a friends crawler..

you have a good list of mods going.. get an aluminum steering links on the front ASAP. dont worry about the tires or any of that until you get the links because plastic sucks and they bend like a pretzel if one tire binds and the other moves and possibly break parts and make the switch to lipo, way smaller and lighter.. you'll need a lipo charger too. my friends and i have this charger..2-3 Cell LiPo Balancing Charger, 0.65A (EFLC3110): E-flite - Advancing Electric Flight.. you'll need a power supply too (the cord that plugs into the wall)... i got lucky and a friend i bought a friends old lipo's for 1 dollar each haha i bought 5 and he had an extra power supply so it only cost me like 20 bucks.. or you can go the thunder ac6 route.

im running a 2s 800-850mah with a high torque servo (300+oz) and im not running a BEC and with no problems...

[donhd04]

Originally Posted by AX10wannabe

^^ yes i think he does IF he's planning on running a dig. but if he decides not to this is fine, i've flipped my skid and now with the new tires i have very little TT..

so here's an updated list of what i bought with my birthday money:

-went with the Hot Bodies Sedona's, i've seen them work and have used them briefly on a friends crawler mine are getting a sipe job because they side slip too much.

-i went with a hitec 7955TG steering servo, i've also seen these work and have played with them briefly on a friends crawler..

you have a good list of mods going.. get an aluminum steering links on the front ASAP. dont worry about the tires or any of that until you get the links because plastic sucks and they bend like a pretzel if one tire binds and the other moves and possibly break parts and make the switch to lipo, way smaller and lighter.. you'll need a lipo charger too. my friends and i have this charger..2-3 Cell LiPo Balancing Charger, 0.65A (EFLC3110): E-flite - Advancing Electric Flight.. you'll need a power supply too (the cord that plugs into the wall)... i got lucky and a friend i bought a friends old lipo's for 1 dollar each haha i bought 5 and he had an extra power supply so it only cost me like 20 bucks.. or you can go the thunder ac6 route.

im running a 2s 800-850mah with a high torque servo (300+oz) and im not running a BEC and with no problems...

Im still running the the plastic links cause im waiting for the bta kit to arrive. However i have a savox 1268sg thats 347oz torque and it doesn't bind the links YET. Im sure it will tho eventually. I have not siped my sedona's yet but its on my to do list. Running a 2S lipo doesn't require a bec but moving up to a 3S lipo does. Also takes you from 7.4 volt to 11.1v power.

This was recommended to me from Chris the battery man on rccrawler. fits snuggly on the servo battery tray on front axle with no binding.
CheapBatteryPacks - Elite 1300 11.1V 35C Lipo Pack

this is also the charger he recommended for it as well. Plugs of any choice were free and installed and adapters were free also.
CheapBatteryPacks - CBP 6i50 Balancer/Charger AC/DC

Both of those have worked flawlessly so far and they both get used at least 4-5 times a weekend. If i would buy a second battery i wouldn't have to wait on charge times which with a 35C is about 60 min. I'm getting roughly 1.25 to 1.5 hours of run time and im not easy on the trigger either.

My local hobby shop has GEN ACE 1350 35C 3S 11.1V LIPOS for 15$ each so those will be my next battery. same size as the elite battery packs from cheapbatterypacks.com

[GRIMGREG]

A few tips from my experiance in the last year.

1. The Axial aluminum upgrade looks nice, but the link ends are weak. Use some Traxxas link ends, the plastic is thicker and the ball is metal.

2. You said you ordered red springs? 3 of the ones you have now should be reds. Like others have said, go Losi golds.

3. Yes BEC is a must, especially with a servo upgrade. And don't skimp on the servo (unless you enjoy replacing it). Get a good high torque one. Also if you don't have a Castle Link, get one when you buy the BEC. It will let you set the voltage on the BEC, and let you change your ESC programming.

4. As for weights, put them on the axle tubes as low as possible without going under the tube. Also put them in the front wheels.

I'm still working on getting mine setup well, I've done a lot of things that I had to redo later (don't get CVDs), but have almost dialed it in after 16 months. If you plan to find a local group and comp it, you'll quickly find the flaws.

[opek]

No one runs a dig on these things anymore, don't worry about it!

As far as the stock servo plate, that thing has some ****ing phenomenal geometry dialed right into it. The servo mounting holes are perfectly set up for upper links. Use some spacers to raise the links up from the top of the plate by 1/4" and you can use links about the same length as your lowers. This will rotate the pinion up (when viewed from the side) and the link mounts back towards the center of the axle (when viewed from above).

I think I have a nice picture of me doing just that. In my thread I kind of detail the things I did and for the most part why to get from stock RTC to where I am now (not much farther ).

[qcax10]

big update this weekend
drilled my 4 wheels and added 2.5 oz in each rear wheels
aluminum links upgrade and custom 4 link on the rear