|
| LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
08-19-2007, 02:29 AM | #1 |
Newbie Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Austria
Posts: 30
| Some tips for buildin' the AX10
Got a bunch AX10 kits last week so I build 4 of them over the weekend. Over all it's a very good quality kit. No parts missing and everything fits together very smooth. Some things to take care of: Don't screw the setscrews for the links to far into the plastic ends - they tend to bind then to the flanged balls. The screws holding the tranny to the motor plate should be tightend very gentle as the motor plate is very thin(2mm) so is the thread. The two O-Rings in the dampers should be treated with Asso green slime or at least oild befor you put them in to avoid damage when you put the shock shafts through them the first time. Do yourself a favor and get a electric drill bit 1,5mm for the beadlocks, otherwise the 48 screws will kill you, believe me. I you want to resemble the box art body painting with faskolor paints - the body is key lime, the roof is a mix of 1/2 pear silver + 1/2 faskrome + some drops of pearl black to get the gun metal, front pumper is black. Coat inside with black and then with faskoat. Some small weaks points: The motor plate doesn't allow for box motors like a Mabuchi or Johnson, the hole is too small - this is more or less a design flaw because, with proper gearing they would be a cheap motor solution. Nobody knows why there have to be a mix of hex and philips screws. The philips ones should not be in a quality kit. The black oxygene coating on the metal parts doesn't hold very well, so avoid every use of pliers to tighten screws or nuts. Instead of exaggerating with millions of nested plastic bags for nearly every screw, some spare parts would have been great (e-ring, screws, nuts - take a look at a Tamiya kit). A plastic fork wrench tool included for holding the body posts in place while tightening them would be great- same for the alu link rods. Bottom line: A very good kit - will widen the crawler community extremly. Go and get one..... |
Sponsored Links | |
08-19-2007, 04:45 AM | #2 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Colorado
Posts: 635
|
thanks for the tips.. excellent. but for the wheels, you say we should drill a 1.5mm hole in each one to have bigger screws?? i dont quite understand.- |
08-19-2007, 06:06 AM | #3 |
Hell's Gnome Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: I'm mean because you're stupid.
Posts: 334
|
Use a drill with that size hex bit in it, like an electric screw driver.
|
08-19-2007, 06:21 AM | #4 |
Newbie Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Austria
Posts: 30
| |
08-19-2007, 09:06 AM | #5 |
Newbie Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Quad Cities
Posts: 24
|
If im gonna paint with black and flourescent green should i use the black first or does that matter
|
08-19-2007, 11:16 AM | #6 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Dogpatch
Posts: 811
| |
08-19-2007, 12:24 PM | #7 | |
Newbie Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Austria
Posts: 30
| Quote:
PS: Try to spray the faskolor flourescent green in at least 5 very light coats to get an even coverage. Very light coats!!!!!!! Check with a pice of white paper behind the body for even coverage. Then back with 2-3 coats of faswhite or faspearl white. | |
08-19-2007, 01:41 PM | #8 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Port Coquitlam, BC
Posts: 109
|
Hey, I'm going to pick mine up tomorrow. I was just wondering if you could tell me what size hex drivers I'll need. If it's going to be mainly one size I'm going to buy a nice Integy one :-P
|
08-19-2007, 01:59 PM | #9 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2006 Location: Pirkkala, Finland
Posts: 377
|
There's a good 4 in 1 hex screw driver set from Yeah Racing available... http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/produc...ducts_id=24656 All quality kits use only metric size screws and bolts, right? ;) |
08-21-2007, 05:28 PM | #10 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Colorado
Posts: 635
| |
08-21-2007, 05:34 PM | #11 |
Newbie Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Sykesville
Posts: 40
|
Nah, you dont need to make the holes bigger, he means use a 1.5mm hex bit to screw the screws into the wheels instead of using a hex wrench, it will take less time and be easier on the hands, but you need to be careful to not mess up the treads or overtighten the screws when you put them in by that method.
|
08-21-2007, 05:46 PM | #12 | |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Colorado
Posts: 635
| Quote:
any chance you could actually make the holes bigger for biger screws?? | |
08-21-2007, 06:55 PM | #13 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Harrisville, UT
Posts: 321
| Quote:
| |
08-21-2007, 06:57 PM | #14 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Harrisville, UT
Posts: 321
|
the holes seem to go all the way from one side to the other, so i dont think it would be to hard, but it wouldn't leave much of a supportive sidewall fo the screwholes
|
08-21-2007, 10:09 PM | #15 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: North Idaho
Posts: 3,648
|
Excellent info, I am getting one of these guys, this will be my first kit. Have you fitted any other bodies to the chassis, if so, which give it the most scale look? Thanks. |
08-22-2007, 12:53 PM | #16 | |
Newbie Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Austria
Posts: 30
| Quote:
Ford F100, Chevy C10, Bushwacker, Baja, HPI Jeep Rubicon, Ford Bronco, Landrover Defender) and some are nice but short. There's a chance that you have to replace the body post on the AX10 with longer ones, some of the bodies above are wider. | |
10-17-2008, 10:20 AM | #17 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: santa cruz
Posts: 71
|
what do you guys think about running a bolt and a nut all the way thruogh the wheel from beadlock to beadlock?
|
10-17-2008, 10:37 AM | #18 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Deep in Swing Town
Posts: 3,011
| |
10-17-2008, 05:07 PM | #19 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Moncton, NB, Canada
Posts: 1,962
| |
| |