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Thread: Some tips for buildin' the AX10

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Old 08-19-2007, 02:29 AM   #1
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Default Some tips for buildin' the AX10

Got a bunch AX10 kits last week so I build 4 of them over the weekend. Over all it's a very good quality kit. No parts missing and everything fits together very smooth.
Some things to take care of:
Don't screw the setscrews for the links to far into the plastic ends - they tend to bind then to the flanged balls.
The screws holding the tranny to the motor plate should be tightend very gentle as the motor plate is very thin(2mm) so is the thread.
The two O-Rings in the dampers should be treated with Asso green slime or at least oild befor you put them in to avoid damage when you put the shock shafts through them the first time.
Do yourself a favor and get a electric drill bit 1,5mm for the beadlocks, otherwise the 48 screws will kill you, believe me.
I you want to resemble the box art body painting with faskolor paints - the body is key lime, the roof is a mix of 1/2 pear silver + 1/2 faskrome + some drops of pearl black to get the gun metal, front pumper is black. Coat inside with black and then with faskoat.
Some small weaks points:
The motor plate doesn't allow for box motors like a Mabuchi or Johnson, the hole is too small - this is more or less a design flaw because, with proper gearing they would be a cheap motor solution.
Nobody knows why there have to be a mix of hex and philips screws. The philips ones should not be in a quality kit.
The black oxygene coating on the metal parts doesn't hold very well, so avoid every use of pliers to tighten screws or nuts.
Instead of exaggerating with millions of nested plastic bags for nearly every screw, some spare parts would have been great (e-ring, screws, nuts - take a look at a Tamiya kit).
A plastic fork wrench tool included for holding the body posts in place while tightening them would be great- same for the alu link rods.

Bottom line: A very good kit - will widen the crawler community extremly. Go and get one.....
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Old 08-19-2007, 04:45 AM   #2
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thanks for the tips.. excellent.


but for the wheels, you say we should drill a 1.5mm hole in each one to have bigger screws?? i dont quite understand.-
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Old 08-19-2007, 06:06 AM   #3
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Use a drill with that size hex bit in it, like an electric screw driver.
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Old 08-19-2007, 06:21 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocjeeper View Post
Use a drill with that size hex bit in it, like an electric screw driver.
That's exactly what I wanted to say!!
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Old 08-19-2007, 09:06 AM   #5
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If im gonna paint with black and flourescent green should i use the black first or does that matter
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Old 08-19-2007, 11:16 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirt Trak Racer View Post
If im gonna paint with black and flourescent green should i use the black first or does that matter
Always paint the darker colors first!!!
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Old 08-19-2007, 12:24 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirt Trak Racer View Post
If im gonna paint with black and flourescent green should i use the black first or does that matter
In case you use the faskolor flourescent green you will have to back it with faskolor white or better with faspearl white to make it bright. So if you do this applying black at last color doesn't matter. So the dark to light rule isn't true for professional paintwork. Without backing the light colors they stay dumb or translucent. And if you back the light ones correct, black at last is no problem. All my bodies get a black coat at the end and then one with faskoat to make it fuelproof.

PS: Try to spray the faskolor flourescent green in at least 5 very light coats to get an even coverage. Very light coats!!!!!!! Check with a pice of white paper behind the body for even coverage. Then back with 2-3 coats of faswhite or faspearl white.
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Old 08-19-2007, 01:41 PM   #8
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Hey, I'm going to pick mine up tomorrow. I was just wondering if you could tell me what size hex drivers I'll need. If it's going to be mainly one size I'm going to buy a nice Integy one :-P
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Old 08-19-2007, 01:59 PM   #9
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There's a good 4 in 1 hex screw driver set from Yeah Racing available...
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/produc...ducts_id=24656

All quality kits use only metric size screws and bolts, right? ;)
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Old 08-21-2007, 05:28 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcpaintworks View Post
That's exactly what I wanted to say!!
i understood about the drilling but you did not explain what for... is it so that you can mount 1.5mm screws it in? arent they small?
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Old 08-21-2007, 05:34 PM   #11
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Nah, you dont need to make the holes bigger, he means use a 1.5mm hex bit to screw the screws into the wheels instead of using a hex wrench, it will take less time and be easier on the hands, but you need to be careful to not mess up the treads or overtighten the screws when you put them in by that method.
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Old 08-21-2007, 05:46 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric_N View Post
Nah, you dont need to make the holes bigger, he means use a 1.5mm hex bit to screw the screws into the wheels instead of using a hex wrench, it will take less time and be easier on the hands, but you need to be careful to not mess up the treads or overtighten the screws when you put them in by that method.
oh ok.. just couldnt understand...


any chance you could actually make the holes bigger for biger screws??
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Old 08-21-2007, 06:55 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric_N View Post
Nah, you dont need to make the holes bigger, he means use a 1.5mm hex bit to screw the screws into the wheels instead of using a hex wrench, it will take less time and be easier on the hands, but you need to be careful to not mess up the treads or overtighten the screws when you put them in by that method.
be very careful those badboys are tiny,
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Old 08-21-2007, 06:57 PM   #14
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the holes seem to go all the way from one side to the other, so i dont think it would be to hard, but it wouldn't leave much of a supportive sidewall fo the screwholes
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Old 08-21-2007, 10:09 PM   #15
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Excellent info, I am getting one of these guys, this will be my first kit. Have you fitted any other bodies to the chassis, if so, which give it the most scale look?

Thanks.
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Old 08-22-2007, 12:53 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greatscott View Post
Excellent info, I am getting one of these guys, this will be my first kit. Have you fitted any other bodies to the chassis, if so, which give it the most scale look?

Thanks.
Check the wheelbase. Some fit good (Proline
Ford F100, Chevy C10, Bushwacker, Baja, HPI Jeep Rubicon, Ford Bronco, Landrover Defender) and some are nice but short. There's a chance that you have to replace the body post on the AX10 with longer ones, some of the bodies above are wider.
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Old 10-17-2008, 10:20 AM   #17
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what do you guys think about running a bolt and a nut all the way thruogh the wheel from beadlock to beadlock?
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Old 10-17-2008, 10:37 AM   #18
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WHY...





Quote:
Originally Posted by mac67 View Post
what do you guys think about running a bolt and a nut all the way thruogh the wheel from beadlock to beadlock?
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Old 10-17-2008, 05:07 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirt Trak Racer View Post
If im gonna paint with black and flourescent green should i use the black first or does that matter
I'll just be painting mine all black, or part black and orange.
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