RCCrawler Forums

MountainCat · 09-10-2007, 12:02 AM

Hey All

Been sniffin around here for a while now... looking for an altenative to the rainy weather... nitro scene. Built several Savage's to various states and got bored with the tuning etc every time I felt like takin then out which has been not that often this summer.Did the clod buster build about mid summer, and although I was intrugued with the build, the ultimate end of it was somewhat disappointing in the paint job.... paint didn't stick.

Friday I grabbed me a Scorpion... yesterday seen the basic frame come together and started the wheels tonight.... man the thumb and pointer are sore from the first wheel. Starting the screws is a pain! Second wheel into it I have a brain fart and come to the conclusion that if I start the holes with my body reamer things go away lot faster. 45 minutes for the first `1' nother 15 and iI'm done the second.

I have read on here about the ease of the mounting screws stripping easily and did not want to go that route. The body reamer trick sure helped out.

Just wanted to share the body reamer idea with you all.

Once the machine is done.... gonna take a bit to come up with the paint scheme.... hence i was lookin at the paint section , I'll post pic's of mine

MC

scrooloose · 09-10-2007, 09:20 AM

I like your Idea. I used a nail that was a little bigger that the whole and made the whole bigger, that way the screw would bite and I could get it started.

binaryterror · 09-10-2007, 09:58 AM

I had no issues, then again tool choice could play a huge factor. I use Dynamite Knurled wrenches, starting and installing them went fine.

dinger · 09-10-2007, 10:14 AM

Oh ya it's hard on the fingers. For two days i was sore, lol. Ive had to take them apart a couple times to weight the tires, each time u do it u will get faster and better at setting the bead.

EeePee · 09-10-2007, 02:31 PM

I also used a body reamer to start the holes, it worked great!

Another trick is after you get the screws started and see them about to seat on the ring, squeeze the rings together and you can see just how much further down you have to go. This more or less eliminates the chance you'll go too far, or not far enough.

In this picture you can see I still have a little more to go.

dirk379 · 09-10-2007, 08:21 PM

Yeah just dont over tighten them. I've never stripped one out, or had one pull from the bead.

The beadlocks that came with the kit werent the quality of the ones you buy in pairs mainly because they arent pre assembled so you gotta do the grunt work. I had to open up the top of the holes a little bit for the screws to fit in to grab the plastic. At least this was for me.

I now have 3 sets of axial beadlocks.. Green, Red, and GREY!!

09-10-2007, 12:02 AM	#1
MountainCat Newbie Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Dawson Creek, B.C. Posts: 10	Axial Beadlocks Trick? Hey All Been sniffin around here for a while now... looking for an altenative to the rainy weather... nitro scene. Built several Savage's to various states and got bored with the tuning etc every time I felt like takin then out which has been not that often this summer.Did the clod buster build about mid summer, and although I was intrugued with the build, the ultimate end of it was somewhat disappointing in the paint job.... paint didn't stick. Friday I grabbed me a Scorpion... yesterday seen the basic frame come together and started the wheels tonight.... man the thumb and pointer are sore from the first wheel. Starting the screws is a pain! Second wheel into it I have a brain fart and come to the conclusion that if I start the holes with my body reamer things go away lot faster. 45 minutes for the first `1' nother 15 and iI'm done the second. I have read on here about the ease of the mounting screws stripping easily and did not want to go that route. The body reamer trick sure helped out. Just wanted to share the body reamer idea with you all. Once the machine is done.... gonna take a bit to come up with the paint scheme.... hence i was lookin at the paint section , I'll post pic's of mine MC

09-10-2007, 02:31 PM	#5
EeePee MODERATOR™ Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Ohio Posts: 18,928	I also used a body reamer to start the holes, it worked great! Another trick is after you get the screws started and see them about to seat on the ring, squeeze the rings together and you can see just how much further down you have to go. This more or less eliminates the chance you'll go too far, or not far enough. In this picture you can see I still have a little more to go. Attached Images

09-10-2007, 09:20 AM	#2
scrooloose Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Upstate, NY Posts: 119	I like your Idea. I used a nail that was a little bigger that the whole and made the whole bigger, that way the screw would bite and I could get it started.

09-10-2007, 09:58 AM	#3
binaryterror I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Detroit Posts: 3,583	I had no issues, then again tool choice could play a huge factor. I use Dynamite Knurled wrenches, starting and installing them went fine.

09-10-2007, 10:14 AM	#4
dinger Rock Stacker Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Calgary Posts: 89	Oh ya it's hard on the fingers. For two days i was sore, lol. Ive had to take them apart a couple times to weight the tires, each time u do it u will get faster and better at setting the bead.

09-10-2007, 08:21 PM	#6
dirk379 RCC Addict Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Utah Posts: 1,530	Yeah just dont over tighten them. I've never stripped one out, or had one pull from the bead. The beadlocks that came with the kit werent the quality of the ones you buy in pairs mainly because they arent pre assembled so you gotta do the grunt work. I had to open up the top of the holes a little bit for the screws to fit in to grab the plastic. At least this was for me. I now have 3 sets of axial beadlocks.. Green, Red, and GREY!!

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Thread: Axial Beadlocks Trick?