Standard Punisher II shafts work with minor mod

[TunaMaxx]

I can add pictures later if anyone wants to see them, but I just fit a set of RC4WD 120-150mm 5mm shafts on my Scorpion. They aren't a direct bolt in, but until the Scorpion specific shafts are available, it's pretty easy to make the current ones work.

All I had to do is cut a little more than 1/4" (7mm) of of the 'female' part to allow enough clearance. It's really easy to cut too. I just used a small hack saw and cleaned up the cut with a file afterwards. That's it, nothin' to it!

Even after cutting, there's still more than 25mm of splined area between the two shafts. So I don't think the mod will hurt the longevity / strength of the Punisher II at all. The shafts are made of stainless steel (but they are magnetic?) so they shouldn't rust or corrode at the cut.

As for the shafts themselves? They are certainly beefy at over 12mm in diameter. Even at that size though, there is lots of clearance between the u-joint and the spur. I run a 91t spur and it's at least a couple of mm away from any contact.

The grub screws that lock the joints to the tranny output shafts and pinion inputs are beefier than the stock ones too. They use the 2mm Allen driver instead of the 1.5mm that you can't always get a really good torque on.

The u-joints have a little play in them, but it's not excessive. The splines are a little rough at first, but just slide the two parts together a few times and any high spots are gone.

With one pack through them so far, the Punisher II's have been bullet proof. Time will tell how they stand up to repeated abuse, but I'm pretty certain they will be take it in stride.

So, if you can't wait until the Axial Scorpion specific Punisher II shafts are available from RC4WD, you can grab a set of the these and get rid of blown driveshafts for good!

[crawls2thewalls]

right on man, pics would be great...

i was waiting for someone to try it first...

[Racer4Life]

Here are the pics of the shafts installed on the AX-10.









With the set screws and the flat spots on the outshafts from the tranny and the axles the Punisher shafts fit and work great. I did grind the driveshaft ends a little to make sure the set screw fit nicely.

[colonelangus]

i was going to order the 90mm-120mm i was told no mods were required.rc4wd said to wait .wait and wait some more

[EeePee]

Cool, you'll be the first person to break something that's a bigger pain in the butt to change than a driveshaft.

Thanks for taking on that new position!

[binaryterror]

Originally Posted by EeePee

Cool, you'll be the first person to break something that's a bigger pain in the butt to change than a driveshaft.

Thanks for taking on that new position!

But his barely looks scratched on the tranny skid or the lower links.

[crawls2thewalls]

Originally Posted by EeePee

Cool, you'll be the first person to break something that's a bigger pain in the butt to change than a driveshaft.

Thanks for taking on that new position!

are we talking tranny problems??

[binaryterror]

Well I'm with EeePee...you strengthen one area something else is gonna give. Wheel hexes (then you'll whine about Axial's wheels), Tranny gears (then you all will wine about their tranny), ring and pinion (then you'll whine about Axials design of that)...

You see there is no bullet proof. Soon you'll have to swap to a slipper tranny because you need some fail point...or you'll find another.

[grapegoat]

I don't get it. I have been bound up like no other, no possible way of tire movement and my 65t will stall before anything gives. If I beef anything up, it will be the knuckles. My rear knuckles will turn all over the place. the lockouts are fine. the knuckles bend.

[Racer4Life]

Originally Posted by EeePee

Cool, you'll be the first person to break something that's a bigger pain in the butt to change than a driveshaft.

Thanks for taking on that new position!

Actually I did this to show people that they will work. This is Brandon's rig. He put a zip tie on his and it has yet to pop off anymore.

Originally Posted by binaryterror

But his barely looks scratched on the tranny skid or the lower links.

For a 4 year old. I'd say it has plenty of scratches on the underbelly!

[renoirbud]

Great that you posted this, I am a little confused why people are hating you over posting a fix for a problem many are having.

I have twisted the plastic shaft of the yoke several times, under non-extreme load and with a very weak outrunner.

Keep up the good work.

[Taffey]

I agree with renoirbud - thanks for the post and the write-up. I ordered a set of those exact shafts a couple days ago, so I'll be doing this mod shortly as well.

Of course, I fully understand the need for a built-in weak link (or, as I like to call it, a "mechanical fuse"), but for me the stock sliders are just a little bit too weak. The plastic rims (and/or plastic hexes) should still provide the just-so give I'm looking for without having to install a slipper.

[TunaMaxx]

Originally Posted by EeePee

Cool, you'll be the first person to break something that's a bigger pain in the butt to change than a driveshaft.

Show me any serious 1:1 rock crawler that (other than maybe for a lack of funds) hasn't beefed up or doesn't want to beef up their drive line.

Me? I give a stock part three strikes; after that, I go to the aftermarket. The leisure time I have available is valuable to me; I can spend it crawling or I can spend it fixing driveshafts. Obviously, I prefer to spend crawling, hence the use of the Punisher shafts.

You can stick with your driveline fuse, I'll use the Punisher II's. That we can both be happy.

[500swmag]

let me guess "fusible" link looked something like this.





nice fix TunaMaxx, keep us posted as to what the next fuse is.

[EeePee]

This isn't 1:1.

Hey now, I'm just saying that in a comp situation, ones in which I compete in, it's ten times faster, and easier to repair (often without a tool and more points) a popped driveshaft than having to repair something inside the axle, or transmission.

And believe me!!!! I have my fair share of driveshaft issues.

And you're right, we can both be happy.

[Racer4Life]

Originally Posted by EeePee

This isn't 1:1.

Hey now, I'm just saying that in a comp situation, ones in which I compete in, it's ten times faster, and easier to repair (often without a tool and more points) a popped driveshaft than having to repair something inside the axle, or transmission.

And believe me!!!! I have my fair share of driveshaft issues.

And you're right, we can both be happy.

Very good point. I know first hand that replacing a ring and pinion can be a bit of a hassle at a comp!

[renoirbud]

Eee-Pee

Fixing the weakest link, does not meant that you absolutely have to destroy the next weakest link.

At the event before Nationals I twisted my rear shaft twice on the final course, I replaced the plastic shaft with a metal one. This does not mean that I will destroy my Diff or CVDs (they held up fine at Nationals, despite the stronger shafts). It simply means I have a stronger drive shaft.

The AX-10 drive shaft might be very different from kit to kit, because I busted mine with a tiny outrunner and others have had success.

[EeePee]

Originally Posted by renoirbud

Eee-Pee

Fixing the weakest link, does not meant that you absolutely have to destroy the next weakest link.

Well you might not destroy it, but it will still break right? It's the next weakest link.

Hopefully it'll be an outer axle.

[renoirbud]

Why do you assume that something else will break, my Clod axles have not busted since I upgraded the last gear set. According to your logic, something other then the gears should break now, because the gears are not the weakest link.

My thinking is to beat the crap out of stuff at home, repair it as durable as possible, and back of the trigger at comps so that you finish, hopefully without breaking anything.

But to find a weakness and to not replace it with something stronger, regardless of how easy it is to fix the part, just makes no sense.

My goal is to make my trucks as strong as possible, not as easy to fix as possible. Having no damage, is less points then a repair, tool or no tool.

[binaryterror]

Originally Posted by renoirbud

My goal is to make my trucks as strong as possible, not as easy to fix as possible. Having no damage, is less points then a repair, tool or no tool.

I think what us "fusible link" people are saying is...If something breaks its easy to fix the popped shaft, not a ring and pinion. Sure you can test all month long before a comp with no issues but strong in some places will break others. Maybe the practice sessions show its tough, oops a small problem at the comp and no more ring and pinion but you have a solid driveshaft...

Something will always fail at some point. You can not build a perfect bulletproof truck. While I commend the tinkerers as we all are one...I just am gonna post a simple "told ya so" in the biggest font possible when some guy with Punishers starts breaking or ruining other parts.