11-29-2007, 03:43 PM | #1 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Toronto, ON. Canada
Posts: 281
| Help on tuber build!
i have been int RC's for a long time but only recently have i discovered crawlers. i want to build a functional yet appealing crawler but dont know how to go about doing so. ive seen many cool looking tubers but i want mine to be unique and not off a shelf. i dont know if i should stick to the original shock and link layout or if i can reposition everything to improve the crawler. i plan on having a 4 link setup , rear steer and already have it drooped. i want to be able to have it comp ready but keep it 2.2 , nuthing too crazy. i have everything needed to build it, but i dont know where to start. i want to be able to have a good amount of flex and keep the CG as low as posible. i was thinking of making the skid plate area wider so i can put the ESC and reciever beside the trans and this would center the drive shafts in the chassis, and also keep the CG low. any advice as for lower and uper link positions. wanted to keep my shocks inverted... should i move the shock mounts forward to have the shocks as vertical as posible? any and all imput is greatly appreaciated. and will be used to improve on this rig. thanks |
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11-29-2007, 03:48 PM | #2 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: between heaven and hell.
Posts: 3,367
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First check out the Tools and procedure section on building tubers. Then I'd suggest that you keep the width as minimal as possible. Less to get hung up on. Make the shock mounts as adjustable as possible so you can see what works for you. If you want to compete loose the rear steer or make it lockable when competing. You can't lock it with a servo has to be manually locked. I personally like a combo of vertical and angled shock locations. but that is a personal preference. you should get more articulation from and angled shock than a vertical shock. |
11-29-2007, 04:12 PM | #3 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Toronto, ON. Canada
Posts: 281
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never noticed that section, alot of helpful info in there thanks, i thin ill be able to come up with something interesting. |
03-12-2008, 03:40 PM | #4 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Toronto, ON. Canada
Posts: 281
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ive finaly took the time to come up with a design on AutoCAD, im not 100% sure if it can be improved on. if there is anyone out there that would like to take a look at it and edit the cad drawing or even just make a few sugestions that would be greatly appreaciated. email me here. i wanna get started on the build but i dont wanna make the same mistakes as every noobie would make. thank you |
03-12-2008, 03:50 PM | #5 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Knoxville
Posts: 611
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EMAIL sent |
03-12-2008, 03:57 PM | #6 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: between heaven and hell.
Posts: 3,367
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Post a pic if you can off the cad drawing.
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03-12-2008, 05:18 PM | #7 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Toronto, ON. Canada
Posts: 281
| if i could link to the cad file i would. dont mind my 3D cad skills not alot of use for 3D at my work. & no email received yet :-( |
03-12-2008, 06:23 PM | #8 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: between heaven and hell.
Posts: 3,367
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I think the only thing I'd try to do is brace the front up a bit. Looks good though |
03-13-2008, 12:59 AM | #9 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Toronto, ON. Canada
Posts: 281
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thanks for your thoughts once i get some brazing practice i will start on this tuber and flash some pics of the final product. why buy it when you can build it. |
03-13-2008, 01:27 AM | #10 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: At the Gates
Posts: 462
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i think link geometry is one of the most important things to consider. if youre going with a four link, go with triangulation on the uppers AND lowers. this will help prevent axle steer during articulation here is a cool pic that somone posted for reference |
03-13-2008, 09:43 AM | #11 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Toronto, ON. Canada
Posts: 281
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since ill be making my ownskid plate ill move the mounting points for the lower links closer together on the skid. and the top links will be adjustable. one more question... i was gona make the skid plate out of 3mm aluminum, is there a better alternative, or should i just stick with that? ive done some research, but having input on my project is realy appreaciated. thanks guys Last edited by BuzzKilla; 03-13-2008 at 09:46 AM. |
03-13-2008, 10:25 AM | #12 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Toronto, ON, Canada
Posts: 87
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You could use some delrin or chop up a cutting board as a skid plate. This will let you rig slid over the rocks better. I notice you are from Toronto, you can go to Lee Valley as they sell UHMW plastic (used for jigs in word working) that has a very low coefficient of friction.
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03-13-2008, 10:36 AM | #13 |
ghetto fabulous newbie Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: with your mom
Posts: 2,526
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Yes, get a delrin or cutting board skid
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03-13-2008, 11:48 AM | #14 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: between heaven and hell.
Posts: 3,367
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aluminum will work. But I like to use delrin cause is slides better the tranny mount holes can be counter sunk deeper and get it a little thicker than your tub. this way the skid will hit before the tub does. Since my chassis use 5/8" that is what I usually use on my tubers. although 1/4" would be more ideal. But in the end if you allready have aluminum or steel I'd go that route. |
03-13-2008, 03:42 PM | #15 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Toronto, ON. Canada
Posts: 281
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ive taken the advice given , and done some thinking. and here is what i would think would be a good blueprint to work off of. i just gota make a few measurements and make sure that the chassis gives enough room for the spur gear. can 1/4" derlin or that UHMW plastic be bent using a heatgun possibly? wanted to bend up the sides of the skidplate to give the belly some drop. im gona start on my project according to these plans but may change afew things as i go along. im never satisfied with my own work. comments were very helpful, but keep them coming. |
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