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Old 01-09-2008, 04:55 PM   #1
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Default 3 link vs. 4 link

I'm trying to get rid of some of the torque twist and am curious about the best way to go about it. I'm trying to decide between the CKRC stage 2 method of lengthening the upper links and sticking with the 3 link or going with the 4 link plates from TCS. I like that the CKRC method is cheaper, but I'm not looking at big cost either way. Pros? Cons? Anyone done both?

Thanks!
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Old 01-09-2008, 06:19 PM   #2
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what I did was i made 4 link peices like tcs only out of some scrap lexan and they work great
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Old 01-09-2008, 06:40 PM   #3
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Default 3 link vs 4 link

i made my link plates out of 1/8th inch alu i ahcked up a bent framing square.and no 4 linking it wont stop torque twist.the easiest way to reduce it is to take the tubing used to limit shock travel on outside of shock and put it inside of the shock.this will squat it out making it more stable and less proun to torque twist.the other way to limit the tq tw is to turn your tranny around and run it backwards.you will have to switch your neg/pos on motor..these suggestions do not eliminate tq tw ,but helps reduce it quite a bit.my truck is proof that these mods work.
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Old 01-09-2008, 07:20 PM   #4
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Spring rate and dampening reduces torque twist. You can run your AX10 at stardard height and reduce torque twist in two ways. Either ad the supplied pre load spacers and thicker shock oil to the rear left shock or run a higher rated spring with thicker oil (rear left shock). lowering your rig by placing spacers inside the shock below the piston will reduce torque twist also giving better side hill stability due to its lower cog. I didnt find that much of a difference when changing to 4link. It was all in the shocks that made a big difference for me.
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Old 01-09-2008, 07:21 PM   #5
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If you look at my chapter 2 Mod build you'll see I did what your thinking of I used the TCS 4 link servo's plates with the "Stage 2" suspension kit. On the rear plate I have the Left upper link Mounted on top of the plate and the Right upper link mounted on the bottom. It got rid of almost all of the torque twist. I will be testing it this weekend to see how it works in an indoor comp in Bismark/Mandan, ND. I'll post video and pic's of the results. Right now the way it is set I can pull up to an 8 inch tall tackle box that is 7 inches wide at the top and climb over it with no problems. And that's with the Rock Lizards still on it.

watch my thread for the results.............

Jason
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Old 01-09-2008, 09:26 PM   #6
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Just moving the links inside with the longer top links will not do much...Mine still twisted like a pretzel. I have heard real good things about the four link with the over under config. I went high dollor and got a set of Losi shocks with 50 wt oil in the left rear.
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Old 01-09-2008, 09:35 PM   #7
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It will be much cheaper if you first, try the kit supplied spacers, and stiffen up that rear shock, if that doesn't help, try a stiffer spring. No matter what you do, I doubt you'll ever get rid of it 100%. These are made for crawling, and a little torque twist doesn't hurt anything at crawling speeds.
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Old 01-09-2008, 09:51 PM   #8
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stage 2!
the 4 link shortens a already too short link, and stiffening up one shock limits flex and just covers the problem
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Old 01-10-2008, 07:02 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doctorducttape View Post
stage 2!
the 4 link shortens a already too short link, and stiffening up one shock limits flex and just covers the problem

If you look at my build you'll see that my four Link "Stage 2" has spacers added to the upper links so that they are the correct length. I plan on making new full length Links if this works to replace the ones with the spacers added in. Sofar I like the results I'm seeing.


Jason
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Old 01-10-2008, 10:59 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colonelangus View Post
i made my link plates out of 1/8th inch alu i ahcked up a bent framing square.and no 4 linking it wont stop torque twist.the easiest way to reduce it is to take the tubing used to limit shock travel on outside of shock and put it inside of the shock.this will squat it out making it more stable and less proun to torque twist.the other way to limit the tq tw is to turn your tranny around and run it backwards.you will have to switch your neg/pos on motor..these suggestions do not eliminate tq tw ,but helps reduce it quite a bit.my truck is proof that these mods work.
Check out this thread about flipping the tranny:
Ax-10 Reversing Trans Question
After reading it, you may have new thoughts on your theory.
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Old 01-10-2008, 11:30 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAM MaxAmps.com View Post
If you look at my chapter 2 Mod build you'll see I did what your thinking of I used the TCS 4 link servo's plates with the "Stage 2" suspension kit. On the rear plate I have the Left upper link Mounted on top of the plate and the Right upper link mounted on the bottom. It got rid of almost all of the torque twist. I will be testing it this weekend to see how it works in an indoor comp in Bismark/Mandan, ND. I'll post video and pic's of the results. Right now the way it is set I can pull up to an 8 inch tall tackle box that is 7 inches wide at the top and climb over it with no problems. And that's with the Rock Lizards still on it.

watch my thread for the results.............

Jason
Only problem with using the top/bottom method is, if you're pinion is angled up for clearence, and the mounting plate is not level, the two links will be different lengths, due to the angle of the bolts. This will pull the rear axle around and out of true.
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Old 01-10-2008, 12:34 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by motormad View Post
Only problem with using the top/bottom method is, if you're pinion is angled up for clearence, and the mounting plate is not level, the two links will be different lengths, due to the angle of the bolts. This will pull the rear axle around and out of true.

I just measured from top Spindle bolt front to back and the measurement is the same on both sides. My axle is as square as square could be. I don't see an issue at all.

Jason
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Old 01-10-2008, 12:52 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAM MaxAmps.com View Post
I just measured from top Spindle bolt front to back and the measurement is the same on both sides. My axle is as square as square could be. I don't see an issue at all.

Jason
I use a jig that holds the wheel shafts square when building, and when i tried that method, one side would not fit back into the jig without pressuring it. Think about it. I know it's not a lot, but they will still be different lengths.
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Old 01-10-2008, 01:17 PM   #14
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With the split link setup the right front stops lifting but now the left rear wheel lifts. All you do is move it around and cause excess axle swing. You can make the 3 link work Great, Less axle swing.
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Old 01-10-2008, 02:25 PM   #15
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Jason,
What is the Correct "full-length" for the uppers & the 4-linK? I made an extended servo plate from a piece of "Delrin-Like" cutting board.

Thanks,

Flynfrog
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Old 01-10-2008, 02:49 PM   #16
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In my years building crawlers, never has a not square truck, or axle swing really made any difference at all when out on the rocks.
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Old 01-10-2008, 04:31 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flynfrog View Post
Jason,
What is the Correct "full-length" for the uppers & the 4-linK? I made an extended servo plate from a piece of "Delrin-Like" cutting board.

Thanks,

Flynfrog
It's hard to get my Caliper in there but it looks like 76mm or so just for the tube and my additional spacer.

Jason
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Old 01-10-2008, 04:33 PM   #18
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EeePee You know I'm new to this but I was thinking the same thing.

Jason
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Old 05-15-2008, 08:35 PM   #19
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So after reading all that which is better 4 link or 3 link
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Old 05-15-2008, 10:25 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skullking View Post
So after reading all that which is better 4 link or 3 link
I think it is just a matter of opinion and application, im sure each has pros/cons that can be comparable
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