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Thread: Fed up with scx10 tr driveshafts!

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Old 11-07-2009, 07:55 PM   #1
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Default Fed up with scx10 tr driveshafts!

Me and my brothers driveshafts pop off the transfer case almost EVERY time we go out, the screws are taking a beating from being tightened over and over. What is the solution to something like this? And are there replacement screws for the tiny allen head screws? Could I use a light glue in the hole over the screw to give it some extra strength?

thanks ahead of time!
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Old 11-07-2009, 07:58 PM   #2
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Blue threadlock is your friend ;)
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Old 11-07-2009, 08:04 PM   #3
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can i get that at home depot? lol
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Old 11-07-2009, 08:14 PM   #4
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I would think so, or a car parts store, or you could always hit up your local hobby shop:-P
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Old 11-07-2009, 10:56 PM   #5
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good call thanks! ill head to action hobbies tomorrrow
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Old 11-07-2009, 11:13 PM   #6
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good call thanks! ill head to action hobbies tomorrrow
Locktite 222 Blue threadlocker. Get at your local auto parts store. It will be cheaper than youir LHS
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Old 11-07-2009, 11:34 PM   #7
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awesome thank you

anyone else have this problem with theirs? i searched around on the forums some more and it seems most axials have this problem pretty regularly. looks like axial needs to beef up their driveshaft connections
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Old 11-07-2009, 11:37 PM   #8
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Yes, we all have had that problem at one time or another. Blue lock tight and overnight drying will work wonders.
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Old 11-08-2009, 08:59 AM   #9
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looks like axial needs to beef up their driveshaft connections

I wouldn't blame it on Axial, I've had the same issues in my Willys outta my Punisher Shafts from RC4WD. A lil thread locker and no more problem. I put thread locker on my SCX-10 when I built it and haven't had a problem.
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Old 11-08-2009, 09:18 AM   #10
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Locktite 222 Blue threadlocker. Get at your local auto parts store. It will be cheaper than youir LHS

FYI: Loctite Blue is 242.

You don't want to use 222, it's a bit too weak.
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Old 11-08-2009, 09:57 AM   #11
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I actually pondered putting holes through the output shafts and using Traxxas style driveshaft pins, as the are designed to go all the way through the output shaft. But, I am lazy, and cheap, and decided to just get some loc-tite and go to town. Works well enough, but if you want something a little more permament, that is your alteranative.
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Old 11-08-2009, 10:46 AM   #12
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well i had the same problem so i used blue lock tight but get rid of the steel set scwew and get a stanless steel replacement on both drive shafts because they strip very easly
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Old 11-08-2009, 10:47 AM   #13
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242 loctite, alright heading to the store now, ill post up the results!
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Old 11-08-2009, 12:47 PM   #14
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A word to the wise when using metal screws in metal parts is to always use loctite 242 blue. It's not an option but a necessity.
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Old 11-08-2009, 01:06 PM   #15
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FYI: Loctite Blue is 242.

You don't want to use 222, it's a bit too weak.
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242 loctite, alright heading to the store now, ill post up the results!
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A word to the wise when using metal screws in metal parts is to always use loctite 242 blue. It's not an option but a necessity.
The reason I recommended 222 instead of 242 is I aave used 242 on small (2mm) screws and then had to drill them out. 242 is for stuff 1/4" or larger and the 222 is for the really small stuff. If you can, get the 222-MS (mil-spec formula) but it is hard th chase down.
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Old 11-08-2009, 07:25 PM   #16
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if they are stripped out you can use the next standard size up from the wrench you are you using now, use 2 grub screws PER yolk and loctight
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Old 11-08-2009, 07:43 PM   #17
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along with the blue loctite i have always added a second set screw to the other side since it is threaded between our 6 or 7 trucks i haver never had any come loose
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Old 11-08-2009, 07:47 PM   #18
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I also run 2 set screws. I upgraded to RobinsonRacings hardened diff also.
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Old 11-08-2009, 09:40 PM   #19
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Default Here is what I did to fix the same issue.

Here is what I did to fix the same issue. First I made sure that the shaft was clean and that it was on the flat spot of the shaft, then I bought two extra set screws so that there were two on each end of the shaft, it might be best to get all new set screws and the ones you have are probably smoothed out making them slip off easier. I also purchased the Axial driveshaft rings and installed them on both ends of each driveshaft. I have not had a single problem after I did this. Here is a link for the Axial driveshaft rings. http://www.axialracing.com/ftp/ax305...haft_ring.html

You can also get the driveshaft rings from 3racing, Integy, and I am sure there are other companies out there selling them. They run around 7 bucks for two of them. Otherwise you could get the MIP CVD's, I have one set of those, best product out there if you have the money. For a little money you can fix your issues alot cheaper using the driveshaft rings.

--John
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Old 11-09-2009, 12:11 AM   #20
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i used permatex 24200, which was said to be the equivalent at o'reilys so we will see how it holds up!
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