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Old 11-27-2009, 05:20 PM   #1
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Default Axial "kits".....

Any advice on getting the full TR kit, (with the radio, servo, motor and esc), vs the scx10 truck only kit. Looks to be a $80 difference.

I'm a newbie, so it might be easier for me to get the TR kit with everything. I think that it just requires batteries for the radio, battery for the truck, and a charger.

Is there any reason to get just the truck and buy my own electronics and radio to finish it, other than the want/need for a radio with extra channels for accessories?
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Old 11-27-2009, 05:50 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by ptcary View Post
Any advice on getting the full TR kit, (with the radio, servo, motor and esc), vs the scx10 truck only kit. Looks to be a $80 difference.

I'm a newbie, so it might be easier for me to get the TR kit with everything. I think that it just requires batteries for the radio, battery for the truck, and a charger.

Is there any reason to get just the truck and buy my own electronics and radio to finish it, other than the want/need for a radio with extra channels for accessories?
The kits have better hardware and come with aluminum links. You can also start out with a little better electronics. Although the stock electronics will get you running just fine.
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Old 11-27-2009, 06:01 PM   #3
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The kits have better hardware and come with aluminum links. You can also start out with a little better electronics. Although the stock electronics will get you running just fine.
And the kits come with hex hardware. No more ugly phillips screws.
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Old 11-27-2009, 09:36 PM   #4
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The kits have better hardware and come with aluminum links. You can also start out with a little better electronics. Although the stock electronics will get you running just fine.
But is it possible to get everything need to get up and running less the battery for 80 dollars?
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Old 11-27-2009, 09:43 PM   #5
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why does everybody hate the phillip heads? I dont have a problem with them and they dont round out in a second
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Old 11-27-2009, 09:52 PM   #6
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why does everybody hate the phillip heads? I dont have a problem with them and they dont round out in a second
The phillips heads look like crap andd stand out like a sore thumb on scalers. Hex head screws dont stand out so badly. Hex head screws dont round out in a second if you are using decent quality drivers that are the right size.
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Old 11-27-2009, 09:57 PM   #7
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The phillips heads look like crap andd stand out like a sore thumb on scalers. Hex head screws dont stand out so badly. Hex head screws dont round out in a second if you are using decent quality drivers that are the right size.
i dont mind them at all
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Old 11-27-2009, 10:20 PM   #8
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But is it possible to get everything need to get up and running less the battery for 80 dollars?
Bump!
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Old 11-27-2009, 10:25 PM   #9
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Bump!
Sure if you buy all of the cheapest electronics you can find. Just remember that you get what you pay for.

BTW, Im pretty sure that bumping a thread is frowned upon around here, especially when it hadnt even been an hour since you posted asking the question.
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Old 11-27-2009, 10:33 PM   #10
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But is it possible to get everything need to get up and running less the battery for 80 dollars?
Save a little more and you're set.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXKYX5&P=FR

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=LXASX2**&P=7
(I wouldn't use the included servo here)

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXUZ89&P=ML

The radio is still a lowball, but the servo and ESC will last and last. I run the AI-Runner Plus in my SCX-10 and it hasn't quit on me yet, despite multiple runs all the way underwater. Futaba makes good radios, this one is their cheapest. It'll function, but the included servo with it is too weak. That's why I reccomend the Hitec 645mg. It's incredibly popular, and will work well in a scaler.
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Old 11-28-2009, 07:10 AM   #11
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Does that AI-runner plus have a drag brake? I like how it's waterproof.. May pick one up for snow winter running.
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Old 11-28-2009, 08:23 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by ptcary View Post
Any advice on getting the full TR kit, (with the radio, servo, motor and esc), vs the scx10 truck only kit. Looks to be a $80 difference.

I'm a newbie, so it might be easier for me to get the TR kit with everything. I think that it just requires batteries for the radio, battery for the truck, and a charger.

Is there any reason to get just the truck and buy my own electronics and radio to finish it, other than the want/need for a radio with extra channels for accessories?
I bought a TR specifically because I wanted the body, light kit, rock rails, spare tire, front and rear bumpers, 4 link bracket, and plastic scale looking lower links. The TR will get you going just fine but you have to realize that the electronics are RTR grade, decent ESC, decent servo, and a really cheap radio. If you plan on getting the TR at least plan on adding a Castle BEC (Battery Eliminator Circuit) as the AE-1 ESC only has a 5 volt 1 Amp internal BEC and maybe a better radio. The stock radio will work but I perfer 2.4 GHz as there are no glitch issues. A kit will run you about $450.00 to $500.00 if you are starting from scratch. This does not include a charger or batteries.

So far the modifications I have made to my TR are a 45T Integy motor with a 14 tooth pinion (could not find a Novak Forty-Five at any of the area LHS's for love or money), a Castle BEC (trust me you need it) and installed my Airtronics MX-Sport Radio. I also moved the battery tray to the front and am using 2/3 A 1500 6 cell packs right now (will be making some 2/3 A 1500 9 cell packs for more wheel speed to go with a handwound HH 55T for scale comps).
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Old 11-28-2009, 08:54 AM   #13
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BTW, Im pretty sure that bumping a thread is frowned upon around here, especially when it hadnt even been an hour since you posted asking the question.
Just putting the discussion back on track...
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Old 11-28-2009, 10:17 AM   #14
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Thanks everyone, this is all great info.
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Old 11-28-2009, 03:24 PM   #15
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Thanks everyone, this is all great info.
yea dude go BALLZ OUT!
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