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Thread: WarTraders Honcho Custom CMS And More

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Old 12-28-2009, 04:57 PM   #1
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Default WarTraders Honcho Custom CMS And More

Well I promise I'm not going to bore you with how to assemble the axles tranny and shocks I think most of you have that covered alread soo I'm going to jump into the meat of the subject.

CKRC got me my Honcho right before Christmas (they have such fantastic service)and have gotten my build started I decided that I wanted to do a CMS (Chassis Mounted Servo). I'm sure alot of you like myself have realized that there isn't a direct bolt up kit avaiable at this time for the longer wheel base Honcho. I decided to go for it and create my own. I admit I did cheat and got a Hand Brothers Axle mount from TCS (The Crawler Store) http://www.tcscrawlers.com/Hand-Brot...n-p-17697.html another great vendor with excellent service.

I installed the lower link just as you normally would using one of the links from the three link, I just added a couple of spacers. I then used the remaining link for the panhard rod. I made my own steering link using 8-32 all thread and 1/4 SS tube.





I got to looking and decided to kill two birds with one stone and make a nice for my electrics, mount my servo and act as a base for a panhard rod mount. In a past build I used thick delrin, to add weight, stiffen the chassis. I'm going this route again and I'm using 1/4" thick delrin.

I started looking at the problems at hand and realized that the second chassis brace was goin to be in the way. I wanted to use this brace as a mount for the shelf so I cut the brace off just past the center mounting point.



I then made a template, transferd the template to some paper, glued the paper template to the delrin, and cut the shelf.



I had to uses some spacers as standoffs to basically lower the servo closer to the axle to let the servo arm clear the chassis.

I then made a panhard rod mount.



I bolted the panhard rod to the under side of the shelf, and bolted up all of my links.



I have the geometry correct the steering link and panhard rod are at the same angle.



It has some great articulation soo much so that I need to put some limiters in the the front shocks. I'll have to get some pics of that up soon.

I've also stretched the rear as I'm trying to decide if I'm going to pull the trigger and go with 2.2 rock loxs on this build I love the look.





These things are just so damn hugh they just dwarf the 1.9 flat iron on my other scaler.



Well I have alot planned for this build and due to having a full life this is going to be a bit of a long term project.

I will be making a front bumper and sliders.
I'm going to make wheel wells.
There is going to be a winch.
With all these light buckets it will deffinately be getting lights.
I'm then going to be toughening up the drive line.

Last edited by WarTrader; 12-28-2009 at 05:14 PM.
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Old 12-28-2009, 08:26 PM   #2
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Rock lox 2.2 is nice and huge. Is it going to rub the body when articulation ? What is your solution?
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Old 12-28-2009, 09:13 PM   #3
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That servo mount / battery tray is awesome.
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Old 12-29-2009, 12:33 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by KevMc View Post
That servo mount / battery tray is awesome.
Thanks appreciate it!

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Rock lox 2.2 is nice and huge. Is it going to rub the body when articulation ? What is your solution?
Yes it will rub. It hits the front bumper when turning unless sitting flat with no suspension compression and the rear cage looks like it may also rub. The 2.2's will go on the truck but may have to wait a bit till I have the time to make my own front bumper, and possibly a rear cage. The only other thing I can do is limit the suspension articulation. I'm afraid I may have to do it soo much that the bigger tires will end up being a detriment for the short term.

This truck is going to be a long term project for me, I just have soo much planned for it that both time and finances are going to make this take a while till it is done (as if they are ever really done).

I'm hoping to have the truck up and running by maybe the end of the week or possibly next. I'm going to be setting up my electrics next maybe tonight or tomorrow. Then it is heading to paint. I'm hoping that the lights I have ordered get in today or tomorrow so I don't have to do too much tear down to get them up and running.
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Old 12-29-2009, 02:30 PM   #5
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Thanks appreciate it!

Good, because I'm probably going to copy it!
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Old 12-29-2009, 03:54 PM   #6
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You can do the same mod with the Alum. Battery tray, I did it on my SCX, it turned out bitchen!
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Old 12-29-2009, 04:02 PM   #7
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You can do the same mod with the Alum. Battery tray, I did it on my SCX, it turned out bitchen!
Any pics?
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Old 12-30-2009, 01:29 PM   #8
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You can do the same mod with the Alum. Battery tray, I did it on my SCX, it turned out bitchen!
Yupp you can do simular with he aluminum plate from the stock battery mount. I ran that set up for a bit on my old scx10.

The thing I didn't like about it was that I had to do like alot of others and run a bunch of weight in the front tires to get more traction. Now here is where the problems started for me.

1st. With the weighted wheels I felt I lost that pop in acceleration. You have to remember rotating mass or weight is like adding an equivelant of 3 to six times the amount of static wieght to the truck. Worst case scenero is say your running 6oz of wieght in each front wheel multiply that by 3 that is 15oz or almost 1lbs. See what I mean.

2nd. Weight in the wheels is unsuspended weight which adds alot of stress to your axles I broke 2 c's when I was running a bunch of weight in the wheels.

Soo using the delrin I was able to reduce the amount of weight I was running in the wheels, and I wasn't limited in the sized of the shelf I wanted by the size of the the battery tray.

The bad thing about adding weight to the chassis is you raise the center of gravity reducing your ability to side hill. Considering that the weight of the delrin is below the heaviest component of the truck The battery I'm not really sure how much that effects things in all.

I did a simular set up in my first scx10 and I've not broken a C since and I beat on it more. The side hilling isn't that horribly effected and I don't seem to have lost that pop that I had when I had quite soo much wieght in he wheels.

It is all trade offs. If the size of the shelf isn't that important to you you could always just add some stick on weights to the bottom of the shelf which I will do a little to tune with my set up..

Last edited by WarTrader; 12-30-2009 at 01:36 PM.
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Old 01-03-2010, 04:56 PM   #9
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I've been trying to get some time to work on this project but it just hasn't happened till today. I started getting my electrics put in.

I'm using some Holmes Hobbies Gear.

My esc is from http://holmeshobbies.com/home.php it's a Holmes Hobbies TorqueMaster BR-XL. This thing is like everything from John at Holmes Hobbies Impressive.



What other ESC can you use run 6s lipos and no turn limit for any 540 motor, while being waterproof for just over a hundred bucks. I admit this isn't for a brushless motor but I'm going to waterproof this bad boy and I've not seen too many brushless systems I liked that canhandle agood dunking. I set it up using my Castle Creations PC link which was a snap.

For my motor I'm going with at 30T TorqueMaster Pro Handwound (yokomo). I went with a lower turn motor for wheelspeed and my experience with the Torque Master series of motors I wasn't afraid of a lack of torque.



I've also rethought the layout of the shelf I made and wanted to get a box that could use to protect my Reciever. I cut the shelf back and mounted up the stock reciever box.



I tend to use smaller 3s Lipos so room for a long battery pack isn't a big concern.

That is all I got done today. Tomorrow I'm off work soo I plan to get my NVS installed, mock up some front fenderwells, I started mocking up the body which I want to finish and prep the body for paint.

Why I don't know I'm painting the bulk of the body with Fastkolor that I can do in my basement, but I need to back it with laquer and I'm still doing the bed in silver laquer. I can't quite pull that off by darting out and spraying the body successfully when it is 8 degrees.


I got it running tonight as well and wow what a fun truck this is going to be. I've really got go get the body mounted with the spare as the rear deffinately needs some weight. I need to either pick up some better shocks with heavier springs for the front or at a minimum get some stiffer springs for the front.

Well as you know the last time you saw the truck it was sporting some 2.2 Rock Loxs. Well as of right now for the immediate future I'm going to be a lemming and I've order some 1.9 Rock Loxs. I orginaly picked up the 2.2's for a Jeep JK project which I kinda shelved till I get this build done. Just looking at things today I realized that the 2.2's will require me to build a different front bumper as I said earlier, and If I'm going to keep the light buckets functional I may have to do a dovetail front end with this body. I will admit I love the look of the honcho but I also hate seeing 100 other guys driving the exact same thing as me... I was noticing how well the exhisting wheel base fits the NewBright JK body I've got shelved ........



Yes the front shock towers are reversed I will fix that first tomorrow.

Last edited by WarTrader; 01-03-2010 at 05:05 PM.
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Old 01-03-2010, 05:05 PM   #10
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nice work on that thing. LOOKIN GREAT SO FAR
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Old 01-03-2010, 05:08 PM   #11
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nice work on that thing. LOOKIN GREAT SO FAR
Thanks! This is my second scaler, and I'm trying to incorperate all the little details in this one that I just felt I could have done much better in the first!
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Old 01-03-2010, 07:21 PM   #12
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Is your tray only mounted to the chassis brace with your electronics box?

I am running the same electronics...waterproofed BR-XL and 30T HH HH
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Old 01-03-2010, 08:25 PM   #13
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Is your tray only mounted to the chassis brace with your electronics box?

I am running the same electronics...waterproofed BR-XL and 30T HH HH
The tray has three mount points one in front I had to cut the front cross brace in half to make room for the servo, and yes the rear two are mounted to the same location as the front mounts of the electronics box.

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Old 01-03-2010, 08:38 PM   #14
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Oh...that one was hidden.
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Old 01-03-2010, 09:35 PM   #15
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I ran the same set up with my og scx10 used the stock battery tray. I like the delrin idea alot more. But I have so much alum laying around I'll prolly use it up before I go the delrin route. I'll be keeping my eye on this build.
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Old 01-04-2010, 05:30 AM   #16
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I ran the same set up with my og scx10 used the stock battery tray. I like the delrin idea alot more. But I have so much alum laying around I'll prolly use it up before I go the delrin route. I'll be keeping my eye on this build.
Thanks If it werent for the fact that I'm going to be using delrin for some other stuff I prolly would use the aluminum plate. I like to replace the crossbrace I'll mount the winch bumper too with a delrin one as the stocker moves too much for my tastes when winching and pushing agains obsticles! You better be patient I've got alot planned and work is about to go nuts for me for the next couple weeks soo progress is prolly gonna be really slow.
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Old 01-04-2010, 02:52 PM   #17
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Well I had the day to myself so I decided to get some more done. I started off with this .



Yupp the uber high tech way to make highend wheel wells. This was pretty expensive I think it cost all of 2.39. Anyways here is what I ended up with.





Now that that part is done I went ahead and starting working on getting my lights put in. I've not got my blinkers or headlights put in yet that will come once I get the body painted. I'm still a bit up in the air about the blinkers I'm not sold on the idea for this truck.

Wow the post man just dropped off my 1.9 Rock Loxs.. I guess I've got more to do again. Now the question is should I paint the wheels black while I have them tore down??

I decided to mount the Axial NVS up high away from the slop, I will probably put it in a baloon once I get every thing done and set up the way I'd like. Will I made a little mount for the module it's self from lexan. This is a first pic I shaved it down and got it alot closer to the trans..



I got the module mounted the way I wanted then wired in the off road lights on the bumper a couple rock lights and the brake lights. I then end up with this





I've got to get some pics of the lights working but right now I'm just glad to have the worst part of it installed. I still need to do something with the rats nest of wiring but that too will probably wait till I get the paint/body done and the headlights and other lights installed.

Right now I have the body all mocked up and ready to get tore back down and painted. I'm just waiting for the paint to come in, the time to do it and the weather to warm up just a hair so I can walk out the back door and shoot the paint soo I don't stink up the whole place.

Well the postman just dropped off my 1.9 Rock Loxs. The big question is should I paint the wheels black while I have them tore down...

Last edited by WarTrader; 01-04-2010 at 03:15 PM.
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Old 01-04-2010, 04:04 PM   #18
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I miss that thing. Now i need a honcho. selling all my stuff to get one.
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Old 01-04-2010, 04:06 PM   #19
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Good thinkin on the NVS mount. i like the fenderwells too. great work
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Old 01-04-2010, 05:24 PM   #20
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Good thinkin on the NVS mount. i like the fenderwells too. great work
Thanks
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