Got my Honcho built with NVS System..

[Zapper2003]

The NVS Lighting system is pretty neat, but I've got one complaint..The wires are too short! I had a heck of a time making anything look right under the body, possibly going to be looking into lengthening the wires (solder/heatshrink) so i can route them inside the body. I just thought I'd post up a few of my pictures because I've not seen folks do this yet.


I mounted the tails/turns in the same place as everyone else does on the back of the truck, so no pictures of that. I used the 5-light kit on the front bumper, but only used 4 lights (used black tape to hide the 5th light. Here's a picture of the front bumper.





I made 2 aluminum tabs that mount under the big fogs, and they run at a slight angle back and away to mount the 2 smaller fogs, its easier to see the tabs in the first picture.


Another problem I was having was finding enough space under the cab to mount everything low and concealed. I still run NiCd stick packs (old school? cheap? you be the judge) so I used the front-mounted battery location and put my receiver in the box. I mounted the NVS box via velcro to the back wall of the cab and here's where I hid my ESC (tekin Rebel 2).



It fit perfectly between the cab and the flatbed underneath, mounted with more velcro. I don't run in water or wet conditions, so getting it wet shouldn't be any issue, however, I may look into making some aluminum panels to cover the sides where you can see the esc. These are just a few pictures I took to give you guys some ideas if you haven't already had them. Thanks for looking.

[nitro_star]

looking sharp, the second pic almost makes it look like a corr truck

[bonks]

what electronics and upgrades have you done. I'm currently working on a scx10 build list, would appreciate any "wish I had done this" or "this worked great for me" suggestions.

The lights look sharp in the front, looking forward to seeing some alum side panels for the bed. I think fender wells make the rigs look so much better anyways.

[Zapper2003]

I'm thinking innerfenders as well, perhaps aluminum there as well. I found some aluminum sheet/plate at the local hardware, I'm going to have to see if I can find it again. It's very thin, just barely thicker than the lexan. It's very easy to manipulate/mold/cut into compound shapes, it'd work very well for a sheetmetal style bumper (fabfours etc). Thats what I'm planning on using for the innerfenders etc. I've got enough to probably make what I'm wanting, as long as I don't screw up. I also need to find some more 2mm hardware, 3mm is just too big for a lot of this stuff and i've got a lot of that. My saving grace so far has been the old Kyosho screw kit that Tower used to give away with purchases over X dollars. However, I think extending the wires and cleaning up the wiring a bit will be a tremendous help to keeping it look 'clean' underneath, even though this body looks like a turd on the outside already.

[Zapper2003]

I'm running a Hitec Lynx FM transmitter/reciever, Tekin Rebel 2 ESC, Integy 55T with stock gearing (14/87? i think) and 1800mah nicd stick packs. It's slow. I have a 19T double that I might throw at it and see how I like that, I am running the slipper just for safety sake. Indoor running on carpet for the winter is tough on the drivetrain in a bind. Anyhow, Like I said, it's all old school but it still works good. Someday I suppose I'll have to upgrade to lipo or something, would my current equipment handle that, or does lipo require use of the new computer radios and brushless? I know zero about this new stuff.

[Brandon]

Looks good, I like what you did with the lights on the front bumper! Those electronics sound familiar... I think I talked to you last week on the phone about the NVS? Looks like it all worked out great

Originally Posted by Zapper2003

I'm running a Hitec Lynx FM transmitter/reciever, Tekin Rebel 2 ESC, Integy 55T with stock gearing (14/87? i think) and 1800mah nicd stick packs. It's slow. I have a 19T double that I might throw at it and see how I like that, I am running the slipper just for safety sake. Indoor running on carpet for the winter is tough on the drivetrain in a bind. Anyhow, Like I said, it's all old school but it still works good. Someday I suppose I'll have to upgrade to lipo or something, would my current equipment handle that, or does lipo require use of the new computer radios and brushless? I know zero about this new stuff.

Your electronics will handle lipo's just fine. Only thing you have to watch is the battery itself because the Tekin Rebel does not have a lipo cutoff on it.

[bonks]

taking another look at your bumper pics, I'm thinking shrink wrap black, all the light's wires outside the body so they don't stand out. also, possibly, if it worked, a winch stuffed down below the lights coming out the lower middle of the bumper with roller fairleads. Just thought it would be something that I may try myself.

On the alum forming part, I watched a you tube video somewhere that showed a guy building his entire toyota body out of hand formed alum sheet. I believe he used bondo against the plastic body to make a hard and sturdy form. was pretty thick too. then he used a wooden dowl to mash the thin alum to conform to the body. Had to trim with scissors for no excess.

This video was awesome, he had many many hours into building ea body panel. Unfortunately in order to be able to form the alum easily, he had to use thin stuff, which ended up getting torn easily against rocks.

Also, you often can find alum in packaged goods, such as pie pans. As well as circular containers, where you could cut them to make wheel wells. Just find an alum container that is a little bigger than your tires at the store.

[Zapper2003]

The aluminum I have is quite a bit sturdier than pie plates and serving trays etc. It's still easily managable though. As far as the winch/wiring and whatnot goes, I'll be tidying that up in due time, the winch is probably a no go, however, they do look neat but not practical for me.


Brandon- Yeah, that was me. I still can't believe I didn't notice the connector in backwards! Thanks for all of your help. As for the Lipo cutoff, I'm guessing that once power reduces to a certain level the ESC quits working all together and Lipos don't like being discharged? I know I thought to myself "stay away from those things!" when I read about a charging 'bag' to keep the battery in just in case it explodes...whats up with that?