SCX10-TR rebuild - Newbie

[vthcbbr]

So, I've had my SCX10-TR for a year now and I'm getting bored with its limited capabilities for me now. I have done some great wheeling with the Goat, (that’s what my kids call it) so much so that my real Jeep is getting ignored! I have been doing some reading and looking around and have some great plans for it.

This is what it looks like now and it will look nothing like this when I’m done. I could bore you with all the things I want to do to it, but I will show you as I get the project moving. So I hope you don’t mind that I share this with you all! I love this community of crawlers and scalers and like being apart of it! Hope you like what I do and any suggestions are welcomed and encouraged!

[gottorque]

sweet man. cant wait to see what you come up with.
The dingo body reminds me of a WW2 era VW "Thing"

[vthcbbr]

Thanks, it's been fun thus far! That is very true, when you take the cage off it really looks like the thing.

[vthcbbr]

*Disclaimer - All the tech pictures (from my phone) are for mock-up build only. I need to get all the measurements and all the parts fitted up then I will order the materials I need and make the good parts after it is finished. So the stuff you see is for mock only. So if it looks a little rough, this is why. *

So I started on the steering geometry and getting the servo up and out of the way a little. So I removed the front chassis brace then the 2^nd chassis brace. I fitted the servo on top of where it was going on the chassis and realized the 2^nd chassis brace was uneven. I had to cut out the passenger side of the brace but left the back wall of the brace. This weakens the brace, but this is why I used thick aluminum for the servo to sturdy it back up.


I angled the rear servo mount down to the front to make the lines a little easier and to have less binding. I used galvanized steel to attach the back half of the servo to the battery/chassis brace. I bent the steel at a 35 degree angle. This drops the servo arm under the front brace and gives it a clear line left to right. I didn’t have the holes shifted enough forward on the steel bracket for the servo so the servo sits back a little bit more than I’d like, but it will work fine.


So the servo sits nicely in the frame rails now and angles down just the way I wanted it too. The servo arm is free and will make the links nice and level too. The optional battery mount still fits over the conversion! So that’s a plus.



Now that the servo is in I mounted up the new drag link. It’s all plastic and it doesn’t fit the bill for what’s going to be going in as the servo, but you get the idea of what it looks like. I will be ordering the links in the next few weeks along with new aluminum C-hubs and knuckles.



Next install will be all about the transmission and motor! See you soon!