|
| LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
10-07-2010, 07:27 PM | #1 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Abington
Posts: 53
| Am I expecting to much from this Honcho?
So very new to crawling and just got a TR honcho as I also have a NewBright JK body that i wanted to mount up to it to copy my JK. So had it out tonight all stock and man... I was not impressed. Friend has scorpion and i know it's on 2.2 and chassis is different but I couldn't climb anything that it did. Electronics keep cutting out, it will just sit there with wheels still turned and it won't go. so i either have to go over and pick it up, kicks right in for whatever reason or sometimes i could turn off radio and back on and it would work again. Stock seems to have no flex, maybe two inches before it lifts another wheel. It is still set with 3 link, read the 4 link can help with flex so will try that tomorrow, also adding weight to front wheels and going to cut the foam a little...Any other info on this thing would help before i regret buying it....
|
Sponsored Links | |
10-07-2010, 07:40 PM | #2 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Gulf Coast
Posts: 214
|
Not sure about the electronic problems but...... Keep in mind the Trail Honcho is exactly what the name says. It's not a comp crawler by any means. Be patient with it and try some different set ups to see what you like & don't like. If it's more rock crawling you want to do then you might want to get something different. I love my Honcho and it does exactly what I want it to do! |
10-07-2010, 07:42 PM | #3 |
I'm a stupid C U N T! Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: In the Garage!
Posts: 4,307
|
BEC |
10-07-2010, 07:44 PM | #4 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Michigan
Posts: 895
|
If you add a BEC to the stock electronics it will help stop the cutting out, but over all the rtr electronics are pretty much just junk. If you vent and weight the wheels it will help the suspension cycle better and get more traction. If you realy want it to flex add longer shocks, like Losi crawler shocks. Heres my SCX-10 flexed out on a 3" tall paint can, and running Losi shocks. It will sit higher but will flex like crazy. Notice both rear tires are still on the ground. Last edited by BLKXJ 96; 10-07-2010 at 07:54 PM. |
10-07-2010, 07:47 PM | #5 |
I'm a stupid C U N T! Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: In the Garage!
Posts: 4,307
|
remove the stock limiters on the shocks, add weight to the front wheels, and upgrade to the 12.3 link set and Hand Bros steering kit and a 14t pinion
|
10-07-2010, 07:53 PM | #6 |
Newbie Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Tempe
Posts: 7
|
I to am new to the Crawling side of RC. i have been into RC for 25 years mainly Drag cars. i got a Axial Trail Honcho the other day and did not like it at all. i also picked up a comp crawler and it does what i want it to. So the Honcho is going up on ebay tonite.
|
10-07-2010, 08:28 PM | #7 | |
I'm a stupid C U N T! Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: In the Garage!
Posts: 4,307
| Quote:
HERE! | |
10-07-2010, 08:35 PM | #8 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Arvada
Posts: 783
|
like said above, the stock electronics aren't the best. Just like anything related to this hobby any RTR is really basic. You really can't compare a honcho to an AX10 or any comp crawler. I have both and I love them both, Scalers are just meant for different terrain. If your budget allows I'd recommend to keep it and perhaps try to get a comp crawler so you can run it with your friend and be more on the same playing field. You could put some 2.2 wheels and tires on it also.
|
10-07-2010, 09:35 PM | #9 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Hartland, MI
Posts: 788
|
Like stated above, you are dealing with two different types of vehicles. Compare it to 1:1 rigs. Sure, you can take out a tube-buggy with a big block, 42's, D60s, Atlas, etc, etc, or you can go out in a ZJ with a 3" lift and 31's. Yes, an AX10 is much more capable when it comes to negotiating terrain. The challenge in a scaler is overcoming the limitations of the vehicle and still making it work. Instead of using a dig, you use a pull pal and a winch. It all just really depends on what style you like. I built a pretty nice comp-style rig, but it lost its challenge, so now I've built a Honcho and I love it. |
10-07-2010, 10:13 PM | #10 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Michigan
Posts: 895
|
My SCX-10 with a few mods and my AX-10 full comp rig....with dig.... will run almost the same lines through a course. I may need to back up a few times with the Honcho, but it will go. Then Again I have run both rigs back to back with the same score.. It all depends.
|
10-07-2010, 10:39 PM | #11 | |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Dutch Oven - AZ
Posts: 500
| Quote:
Same here. Once you dial in a Honcho, it does amazing things. My favorite upgrade was switching to 2.2 tires/wheels. Now it runs 90%+ what my comp rig does... Heres 4 FREE upgrades that will have the most impact on performance; 4-link the rear Lower the battery tray for better COG Add lead to each wheel ( I did 3 oz per wheel, all 4) Drill a hole on the upper shock bracket (SEE PICTURE) to mount the shock lower for more height (looks weak but hey its FREE and it hasn't broken yet...) Upsize to 2.2 wheels/tires - Not FREE but well worth it! | |
10-07-2010, 11:04 PM | #12 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 688
|
the first time we had a large group together, we actually had a stock OG scx10 leading the comp crawlers around and it was doing pretty well...then again we arent hardcore compers... just depends on how you set it up.
|
10-08-2010, 04:48 AM | #13 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Long Island
Posts: 347
|
Here's my nephews i helped him set up yea another honcho Install tra2742 links to the bottom of the shocks to gain some ride height. Helps keep the linkage from hitting the frame when you remove the bump stops in the shocks like sugested. Make sure those shocks dont have too much oil in them and compress all the way. Also vent the rims. After some tuning ditch the stock electronic's. Once i put my novak stuff in, it was like night and day! Last edited by Cableman; 10-08-2010 at 04:53 AM. |
10-08-2010, 08:44 AM | #14 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Murfreesboro
Posts: 1,537
|
I read alot about people sayin their Honcho or TR wont flex worth crap and I have to say BS! Either yall dont understand flex or you got a bum model. Heres my BONESTOCK TR flexin. This is literally seconds after I got it outta the box. After this I took the bump stops outta the shocks and added some weight up front and a little out back, moved the battery to the front of the chassis and it would flex even better. Dont give up hope too soon, these things are crazy capable straight from Axial and they only get better as time goes and mods happen. Dont compare it to a 2.2 tired comp crawler, especially stock on 1.9s and dont worry bout the electronics bein goofy. slap a good BEC in it to power the servo and the glitching will stop! Best of luck with it! Matt |
10-08-2010, 09:11 AM | #15 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Atlanta
Posts: 324
|
with a little work you can flex even more. But I have to agree, the stock setup is very, very nice. I was shocked. |
10-08-2010, 02:12 PM | #16 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Fox Valley WI
Posts: 1,691
|
With my stock SCX chassis, aftermarket electronics and 2.2 PL Hammers I was playing "follow the leader" with comp rigs and managed to hang with them 80-90% of the time. Not sure what the issue is or what your expectations of a trail rig are, though.
|
10-08-2010, 04:10 PM | #17 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Abington
Posts: 53
|
@sincity. That's what I need right there. What did you mod for that. I added the 4 link rear and seemed to help a little. Upper and lower links just about touch at full compression so that's good. Going to look into longer shocks to get a little more droop. Added weights to front wheels and that was a big improvement I think upgrading to 2.2 wheels and tires will also help me out. I'm going to borrow a set from ax10 to try it out first also going to move battery to on top of sliders and mount electronics on battery holder. Add the bec the twitching electronics is terrible. Right as I get into a little tight spot, dies. Really annoying. Also cut the foam and got better contact patch Thanks guys and I'll post a picture of it flexing so you guys can see it and tell me if it looks right. I'm going to measure it so I know for sure flex Update. Measured flex and it is 3 1/4 inches so its not bad. Can't remove shock bumpers, if they come out upper and lower links will hit each other under full compression but it's not to Bad. I need to finish adding some weight and relocate batteries. Feeling better had some fun with it tonight with the lights Last edited by Jeeper2007; 10-08-2010 at 08:49 PM. |
10-08-2010, 04:31 PM | #18 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: 801 El Capital
Posts: 434
|
You will love it once you get it all figured out. And then like alot of people will just dich the comp rigs and go all scale. Jason |
10-08-2010, 10:42 PM | #19 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Michigan
Posts: 895
|
I was aginst the scalers from the start....seems kinda wierd with all the dolls and winches, almost real stuff. When PL came out with the Cherokee body I had to have one......Now im into it....SinCity your XJ is sweet!! |
10-08-2010, 10:51 PM | #20 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Fox Valley WI
Posts: 1,691
|
Just a thought, but if there is air in your shocks, they won't compress normally. It might be worth it to check them off the truck to see how they feel. If they compress and get harder, or rebound alot by themselves they need to be bled.
|
| |