04-13-2011, 09:22 PM | #1 |
Newbie Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Bend
Posts: 13
| The basics
Alright so i just got my scx10 dingo yesterday. I have moved the battery to the front. I have a short course truck and i know how to set that up, but when it comes to crawling im completely lost as to how stuff should be lol. So.. What is essential to making it crawl to the best of its capability? I can tell that it needs wheel weights and some longer shocks and softer springs. What else can i do, or need to do? |
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04-13-2011, 10:19 PM | #2 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: San Diego
Posts: 224
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aluminum links! 45~55T motor Crawler ESC |
04-14-2011, 12:13 AM | #3 | |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Barboursville, WV
Posts: 1,448
| Quote:
From there it's going to be up to you and the terrain you're on. What works for one may not necessarily work for you. Trial and error. | |
04-14-2011, 04:31 AM | #4 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: jackson,tn
Posts: 402
| Quote:
couldn't have said it any better, that's for sure! | |
04-14-2011, 08:00 AM | #5 |
Newbie Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Bend
Posts: 13
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Thanks for the advice.
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04-14-2011, 08:53 AM | #6 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Tekin, ID
Posts: 1,940
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I actually like the RTR links better if you're not really serious about comping. My crawlers never see comps, maybe Montana Scale Nats but that's it. I like the flexibility of the stock links, have yet to break one, they bend if your rig gets jammed up but pop right back into shape. Perfect for bashing. My aluminum ones however, I can't tell you how many of the link ends I've broken or ripped. I think the alloy sticks on the rocks more and doesn't slide as well as the plastics, plus it burrs up and snags even worse over time. |
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