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07-08-2011, 11:29 AM
| #1 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 1,634
|  Steering linkage ?s
So I am making my steering linkage using Jato end links for my Honcho TR. I have a few questions for those of you that have made them, specially without Axial end links. How did you deal with the tube hitting the diff at near full lock? Would a spacer under the tie rod help? If I use a spacer that will mean I need a shorter servo horn. What will that do to my steering? I know the Axial steering links have an angle built in but I don't have those. Is my measurement of 136mm correct for the tie rod? What else am I not thinking about? Thanks |
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07-08-2011, 03:21 PM
| #2 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Kennewick, Washington
Posts: 1,382
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Here's one option......  |
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07-08-2011, 05:02 PM
| #3 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Dover, NH
Posts: 1,153
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There are plenty of other link ends other then Axial to chose from. I have a mixed bag of Axial, traxxas, venom, unknown rod ends on my rigs. The Axials are the only ones with the plastic balls in them. I really only change due to some being longer or shorter then others. I have never had a problem with an Axial rod end other then popping out of the three link connection at the axle. but with 3S, 27 turn and 2.2 Boggers, that is a lot for one rod end to handle. I think the best bet would be to get offset rod ends similar to the axial ones. Raising the steering tie rod is good. But the bolts that hold them on get stressed the further from the knuckle you get. I am running high steer on one rig with just Venom rod ends (on the steering tie rod) and a slightly shaved axle to clear with a Hand Bro Steering kit. This is with Axial high steer knuckles that keep the tie rod closer to the axle then Vanquish or some others. So it can be done with the right ends. Just not too feasible with strait rod ends. Pic for any help, not sure if it does. but this is with a mix of brands of rod ends:  Last edited by Rook82; 07-08-2011 at 05:10 PM. |
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07-08-2011, 10:18 PM
| #4 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 1,634
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This is what I came up with. The tie rod has Jato links, the wider links with the large flange on one side and the drag link has Traxxas link from the kit that comes with 20 in it. I'm really happy with all the angles but I bottom out on the dif turning right a little early than left. I think if I add a spacer that will help. Will a shorter servo horn hurt anything?  I still have to put some nuts on and a little longer bolts in with spacers. But I have to figure out the servo horn. The ones I have tried have the offset the wrong way or are too thick. |
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07-09-2011, 12:57 PM
| #5 | |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Kennewick, Washington
Posts: 1,382
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07-09-2011, 01:43 PM
| #6 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Abbotsford BC
Posts: 522
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I use the axial steering end links for knuckle-to-knuckle to get the bar away from the pumpkin, then spacers to raise it up a bit. I use a metel servo horn with the link from the horn to the passenger side knuckle mounted behind the horn so it doesn't hit the other rod. |
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07-13-2011, 09:59 PM
| #7 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 1,634
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I think I got the steering worked out. I added a small spacer under the end links and that got me some more steering. When I did that is made my drag link hit the tie rod, just barely, so I added a washer under the servo plate and all is good. I still may look at a shorter servo horn to see if a can get some more steering out of it. I am also working on a new tie rod, we'll see what works better.
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