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09-13-2011, 10:32 PM | #1 |
Newbie Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: calgary
Posts: 22
| i think my electronics are crapping out
my truck doesnt like to have a steady speed, it tends to kinda "jump" forward at slow speeds and is not smooth at all... top speed and turning is fine, but soon as you go to crawl something slow and steady it twitches. also sometimes, if the wheels have pressure on them the odd time the truck will turn off and the lights will flicker untill i turn the wheels left and right then it comes back on. the electronics are stock in the rtr kit any tips or ideas why this is happening?
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09-13-2011, 10:34 PM | #2 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Joliet
Posts: 136
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We need more info. Exacly what stock electronics are in it? And are you running a BEC? You probably need a BEC but more info please
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09-13-2011, 10:40 PM | #3 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Lake City, Fl
Posts: 380
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if you're running stock electronics, down to the battery connectors, I'd start with those. get those Tamiya things off there and put some Deans on it... my RTR glitched like mad out of the box until I soldered some Deans on but yeah like rod said, need a little more info on the rig's specs |
09-13-2011, 10:49 PM | #4 |
Newbie Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: calgary
Posts: 22
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tbh i dont know much more than its the electronics that come in the honcho rtr. i dunno what the specs are im assuming they have the same electronics in the rtr's? and what is a BEC?
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09-13-2011, 11:06 PM | #5 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Lake City, Fl
Posts: 380
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a BEC is a battery eliminator circuit. really only applies if you're running lipo batteries. there's one built into the stock RTR's Axial ECS, so you won't have an external one. bad thing about that is that you can't simply unplug it to take it out of the equation and eliminate it as being a problem... but before jumping to the conclusion that you have a bad ECS or receiver, start by going over the rig's electronics visually. make sure you wires between the ECS and receiver are in place good and the wires feed good and not like they're coming loose in the connectors. but like I mentioned before, the Tamiya battery connectors that come on the RTR's are, in my opinion (and many other's) pure junk... they don't carry a heavy load very well, the pins are just very loose in the plastic connectors, and they move around even when plugged in and can cause connection issues leading to all kinds of glitches. you'd be better off getting ahold of some Traxxas ends and putting them on, but I would recommend Deans ends. it'll replace the battery's plug and the plug it mates to on the ESC. but you'll need to do a little soldering in order to replace those. do a search on them if you're unfamiliar with Deans connectors. there's literally TONS of info about them out there; I would grantee 90% RC hobbyist use them over any other plug |
09-13-2011, 11:06 PM | #6 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Joliet
Posts: 136
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Well there's different types of stock electronics. The first version was crap. Then they were upgraded a little. The ESC is slightly better and I believe the servo was better too. Post a picture maybe? You can use a ccbec to power your servo from the battery. You said the truck "turns off" when the front wheels have presure so that's why I sugested the BEC. Use the search button to read more about BEC's.
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09-13-2011, 11:29 PM | #7 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Lake City, Fl
Posts: 380
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that's true; it could be the older system they use to put in them
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09-13-2011, 11:48 PM | #8 |
Newbie Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: calgary
Posts: 22
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ill try get a pic up in the next couple days i dont have my rig with me atm, but i think ill forsure get deans conn my friends have them on theirs and also recomend them, and also i find when i sumberge the truck up to the batt connector (i have ballooned the electronics and sealed them up) but it seems as if water gets into the connector and it shuts off at certian angles of terrain almost like the water moves inside and short it out,,,but im hoping deans will fix my problems. on another note i have my antenna inside the body but the body is putting pressure on it and forcing it to xit the bottom of my truck pointing downward..could this be a problem also? as if the signal cant be reached as easily because of its position? |
09-14-2011, 12:33 AM | #9 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Joliet
Posts: 136
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Are you still using an AM radio? You might have the old version of the electronics and those were never good to begin with, then submerging them in water... Lol you might have to replace all the electronics. Mines lasted probably a month then I got a better servo, then swiched the esc to a tekin fxr. Then started using 3s lipo's so I got a ccbec. Wish we could help you out more but I don't know how lol. Eventually I think everyone replaces all the electronics in the rtr's you might have to do the same
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09-14-2011, 04:48 AM | #10 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Chezzetcook Nova Scotia
Posts: 537
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My buddy just had the same sort of problems with his SCX10. Turns out it was a bad servo causing all the glitching. He switched servos and the problem is gone.. He did try everything else first.. New battery connectors (Had deans and switched to traxxas), New bullets on the motor to esc. etc etc.. Funny thing is, the servo still seems to work, it just causes glitching. It was a Stock servo with the #2 on it.
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09-14-2011, 05:10 AM | #11 |
Newbie Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Havelock
Posts: 5
| possible esc
It sounds to me like its your esc going hay wire. I can't say for sure cause like everyone else says, we need pictures or more info but do this for me, look on the sides of your esc and tell ,me if it says "AE-1 or AE-2" the first version was crap. For lack of better words, (and correct me if I'm wrong anyone), it did not have drag brakes, and it did not have ready lipo abilities like the ae-2 does, like a lipo cutoff standard from the factory. Also this should go without being said but double and triple check ALL of your wires!
Last edited by losiminiblazer; 09-14-2011 at 05:14 AM. Reason: in addition |
09-14-2011, 10:10 AM | #12 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Salmon Arm BC
Posts: 1,777
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sounds to me your on/off switch is done for. cut it off and solder the 2 wires together or solder on another switch.
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09-14-2011, 10:25 AM | #13 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Lake City, Fl
Posts: 380
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09-14-2011, 03:53 PM | #14 |
Newbie Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: calgary
Posts: 22
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alright i think ill try do the deans connectors and solder the on off switch permanatly and see how that goes...my radio says ax-1 on the side if that helps any that all i know off the top of my head
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09-14-2011, 04:36 PM | #15 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Salmon Arm BC
Posts: 1,777
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yup once you solder the switch the rig is ON when you plug in the battery so if you want to turn the rig off then you unplug battery. also a great way to figure out if your switch is pooched is grab it and turn it on and shake it, if it starts doing this>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_qm6CK6yzwo then its time to cut the switch off. Last edited by AX10wannabe; 09-14-2011 at 04:40 PM. |
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