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10-24-2011, 04:18 PM
| #1 |
| Newbie Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Santa cruz
Posts: 4
|  ever growing problem
I bought my honcho telling myself if anything ever broke, upgrade it. I had the front transmission side ujoint break. so i bought hardend steel driveshafts. shortly after that one broke. so i bought another brand Integy. within five minutes one broke. i replaced it with the stock rear shaft that has yet to give me problems. the u joint pins either fall out or break. i decided to modify it by glueing the pins in the ujoint. and the u joint still broke. Ive been through 4 driveshafts that have failed via ujoint. So im asking anyone out there if they have a brand recommendation or modification tip so i dont have to shell out 20-50 bucks a week.
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10-24-2011, 04:29 PM
| #2 |
| Quarry Creeper  Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Rocky Hill
Posts: 421
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What the hell are you using for a motor?! I use the junfac shafts on my tuber with a 10t cobalt puller runnung 3s and I haven't broken a thing. Axial sells a collar that goes over the universal that keeps them together but you'll be better be better served by buying a better brand driveshaft. MIP is the best but overkill in my opinion. As I stated earlier I like junfac. Last edited by Bukwylde; 10-24-2011 at 04:32 PM. |
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10-24-2011, 04:32 PM
| #3 |
| Scale Detail Engineering Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Turtle Island
Posts: 5,573
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mip and rc4wd punisher shafts are the strongest but expensive. I recently switched to the mip's. Before that I was running Traxxas Maxx shafts, the best bang for your buck. search for a thread named "maxx shafts made easy" |
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10-24-2011, 04:35 PM
| #4 | |||
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Rocky Hill
Posts: 421
| ;) Here is part # AX30493 Goes together like this
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10-24-2011, 04:37 PM
| #5 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Rocky Hill
Posts: 421
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Another new trick I've seen is some folks are going to Wraith shafts and I think it's a straight conversion.
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10-24-2011, 05:16 PM
| #6 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Orlando
Posts: 1,153
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I run MIP's in both my SCX10's and yet to have an issue. I don't know how so many people are having issues. Hell I'm toasting motors before stuff actually breaks.
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10-24-2011, 05:27 PM
| #7 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Joliet
Posts: 136
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And stay away from Integy!
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10-24-2011, 05:52 PM
| #8 | |
| Newbie Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Santa cruz
Posts: 4
| Quote:
stock motor. only upgrades are the axial aluminum links. dont think the sleaves would help not having stock shafts. | |
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10-24-2011, 06:00 PM
| #9 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 1,634
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I used the stock shafts for quite awhile and some pretty good bashing. I just recently went to Junfac after finally breaking the stock shaft. The first thing I did is take the shafts all apart and loctite the set screws in so I can hopefully not lose a pin. I also tried the heat shrink over the pins but it isn't holding up to well. I'm hoping the $34 I put out for these will be the last. Now if I can just break a knuckle then I can upgrade there as well.
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10-24-2011, 06:05 PM
| #10 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Seattle
Posts: 434
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Read up on my conversion. Uses wraith diff inputs, and wraith trans outputs with t-maxx shafts. All part numbers and details are in my thread. I have built over 20 crawlers, and have yet to break anything with a Maxx shaft in it. This conversion does away with the dumb set screws as well! Pin Through Options For Drive-shafts? |
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10-24-2011, 07:07 PM
| #11 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Orlando
Posts: 1,153
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Actually the new Wraith Outdrives are drilled through. So that would do away with the set screw anyways. I drilled my RR solid outdrive and put pins and dont worry about a thing.
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10-24-2011, 07:18 PM
| #12 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2009 Location: Northern Virginia, USA
Posts: 128
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Something els eyou might want to consider is using the under drive ring and pinion gears int he front and rear. This will reduce the amount of torque on the drive shafts.
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10-24-2011, 07:58 PM
| #13 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Lake City, Fl
Posts: 380
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thought I'd throw this out there. if you decide to order the Wraith style trans outputs with the drilled through ends, don't just order them for a Wraith. Axial sells them for the AX10/SCX10 transmission. if you order them for a Wraith, once side will not work since the Wraith transmission has a longer front output (for a dig option) Axial Racing - Press : AX30794 WB8 Driveshaft Set (2pcs)  me personally, I'm running a transmission pulled right out of a Wraith because 1) it came with the drilled outputs, and 2) the longer output on one side shortened up my driveshaft length where it was needed; in the rear, since I have my trans flipped around. and the only reason it was too short to begin with is because I'm using Traxxas drive shafts, which are a direct pop-in replacement to the stock Axial shafts be it a little shorter, and you can get a pack of 6 complete shafts for $10. I'm still using the original steel yokes and u-joints that came with my Honcho though; I have no idea how you can manage to snap those  you're not like tossing the thing out of a moving vehicle at 30mph expecting it to hit the ground running and keep up are you? lol
Last edited by iamsuperbleeder; 10-24-2011 at 08:03 PM. |
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10-24-2011, 08:45 PM
| #14 |
| Newbie Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Santa cruz
Posts: 4
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set screws havent been the problem, its the ujoint pin. and the junfac shafts failed on me. the situations that they broke were a small hill, no stress, and cruising flat ground. Might try to locktight or glue the pin in and or sucure it as well.
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10-24-2011, 09:19 PM
| #15 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 1,634
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When you say the Junfacs failed, do you mean you lost a pin? Did you have the set screws on the pins loctited in?
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10-24-2011, 09:42 PM
| #16 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: s. terra firma
Posts: 519
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Buy the mip shafts, blue locktite them in. You can buy parts for these driveshafts. You could also do the punishers they are also stout, but not rebuildable and almost double the cost. Ive used the mip shafts for 2 years of beatin on and they work. I took them out of the truck a couple of months ago and only cleaned and lube them they are good.
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10-24-2011, 10:11 PM
| #17 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: hawaii
Posts: 1,139
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I've broken the pins on the jundac shafts so i replaced them. I got them from a vendor, then I shattered the shaft itself!! I have nip shafts on my other truCk and those are the best out there!! You can buy parts to rebuild if you need to!! But they are probably the best set you'll ever buy!!!
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10-24-2011, 10:13 PM
| #18 | |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Orlando
Posts: 78
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10-25-2011, 04:45 AM
| #19 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: May 2011 Location: at your moms
Posts: 658
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mips on everything i own no complaints at all other than 50 bucks a set but i wont be breaking shafts anytime soon
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10-25-2011, 06:32 AM
| #20 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: May 2011 Location: Tulsa
Posts: 53
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I hate the Junfac shafts, IMHO they are crap. Can't keep pins in them, they make to much noise (loose fitting) and the half moon spline design.....really I'll just keep it at that. Saying such a thing might offend someone but remember this is only my person opinion. The best drive shafts for me would have to be the Traxxas 1951 Truck Long Shafts with the 4268X Hardend Steel U Joints. But at the moment i'm using the stock Axial shafts with the Traxxas U Joints and the Axial collars. With that set up I snapped a front output on the tranny and the shafts held. |
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