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Thread: Drive shafts & u joints

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Old 11-20-2011, 06:46 PM   #1
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Default Drive shafts & u joints

Where can u get some stronger than stock second run and a blew mine out :( stock came with the plastic ones similar to the traxxas...the u joint actually is the one having the issue it's metal u join off the center trans but the plastic one on the shaft and stronger ones out there?
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Old 11-20-2011, 06:50 PM   #2
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yes, MIP drive shafts. well worth the $$$
and yes the ax-10 ones work. heres a link-

MIP C-Drive Spline Set for Axial AX10 Scorpion (2)

PS RPP is also a great place to deal with!
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Old 11-20-2011, 07:20 PM   #3
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Oh my those are sexy!! I can't wait juts placed the order those plastic stock ones are junk! It lasted two outings!
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Old 11-20-2011, 07:24 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twztid View Post
Oh my those are sexy!! I can't wait juts placed the order those plastic stock ones are junk! It lasted two outings!
I have them on 2 diffrent rigs, and they have yet to fail me! You'll love em!
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Old 11-20-2011, 07:28 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twztid View Post
Where can u get some stronger than stock second run and a blew mine out :( stock came with the plastic ones similar to the traxxas...the u joint actually is the one having the issue it's metal u join off the center trans but the plastic one on the shaft and stronger ones out there?
remember, you're only one comma away from helping your uncle Jack, off a horse.

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Old 11-21-2011, 01:03 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iamsuperbleeder View Post
remember, you're only one comma away from helping your uncle Jack, off a horse.

I tried to read the post 5x as well, got the basics, but the whole metal/plastic finish to the post was a complete blur.
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Old 11-21-2011, 02:14 AM   #7
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I upgraded to the MIP's to. Also updated my motor (tekin35T) and broke the tab off the output shaft of the tranny. Just somethin to think about as far as next weakest link. ;)
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Old 11-21-2011, 02:45 AM   #8
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I run HH 35T on 3S and stock shafts work fine. If you want to save money, buy some stocks and set your slipper properly. I am sure this is why people blow out the stockers.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Twztid View Post
Oh my those are sexy!! I can't wait juts placed the order those plastic stock ones are junk! It lasted two outings!
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Old 11-21-2011, 05:26 AM   #9
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On my truck, I never got the chance to wear out/break the plastic shafts, my yokes would simply not stay on the vehicle. Maxx shaft upgrade with the new SCX outputs/inputs permanently solved all of my issues! Not even a hint of an issue since! Details in sig. link if interested.
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Old 11-21-2011, 05:58 AM   #10
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I hear these work well also
http://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/jun90025.htm
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Old 11-21-2011, 06:12 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by ablaydes View Post
I hear these work well also
http://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/jun90025.htm
Would not have solved my issue. Still uses the retarded set screws for attachment. Engineering like this is the result of people with good idea's, but no actual engineering background.

Last edited by NFA Fabrication; 11-21-2011 at 06:14 AM.
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Old 11-21-2011, 09:04 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NFA Fabrication View Post
I tried to read the post 5x as well, got the basics, but the whole metal/plastic finish to the post was a complete blur.
Sorry, I was in a rush trying to explain it. Plus TappaTalk wasn't letting me upload the picture to show what I was trying to explain. We also had a couple beers at bufflo wild wings after our outing.
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Old 11-21-2011, 09:09 AM   #13
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You could say the same for set screws on pinions. Loctite is your friend. The maxx shaft with through hole output shafts seems to be the way to go.
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Old 11-21-2011, 09:11 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slaughter View Post
I run HH 35T on 3S and stock shafts work fine. If you want to save money, buy some stocks and set your slipper properly. I am sure this is why people blow out the stockers.

Although I'm a complete newb to crawling, I agree 110%. I use my slipper on my Honcho, and haven't broken a single part on it after 50 or so battery packs of playtime. The drivetrain is completely stock and is holding up well so far.
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Old 11-21-2011, 09:27 AM   #15
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I have my slipper nut flush to the bolt, Didnt seem to be to tight. I don't know if you can see from that picture, we do run then hard had about 8 hours of crawling on them. Me and the guys try to make it up some pretty steep stuff and often I think a little to fast. that Novak runs very slow and then has a boost after 2 seconds of full throttle that really makes that truck haul! And it does it sometimes in bad spots trying to get up some gnarly stuff
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Old 11-21-2011, 07:23 PM   #16
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There's this little blue tube called thread locker I put a dab on my set screws on the stock plastic shafts when it was out of the box fresh And they have never came out I'm pretty sure I'm goin to have troublengettin them out whenever I'm ready to upgrade
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Old 11-21-2011, 07:27 PM   #17
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I run the stampede shafts with the metal ends. 15t drift motor on 3s and no issues. They are about the same money wise as the MIPs though.
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Old 11-21-2011, 07:45 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ablaydes View Post
There's this little blue tube called thread locker I put a dab on my set screws on the stock plastic shafts when it was out of the box fresh And they have never came out I'm pretty sure I'm goin to have troublengettin them out whenever I'm ready to upgrade
To bad I'm not having set screw issues, and I'm completely aware of thread lock. The u joint physically opened up and poped off the plastic streched
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Old 11-21-2011, 08:59 PM   #19
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okay, let's identify some things really quick, because I think there's some confusion in this thread...


let's say in the animation below, the red piece on the top right is the output from the transmission. the green piece in the center is the metal center piece where the two plastic shafts join. and the red piece on the bottom left is the drive shaft leading down to the axle. this entire assembly is what makes up a universal joint. if you want to get technical, no one piece by itself is a "universal joint"; the universal joint is a combination of parts






so what you're having happen is the drive shaft piece (bottom left red piece), the flanges that it hooks to the green center piece with are spreading apart and popping off of the center green peice?

it's a VERY common issue, and Axial sells just the part to remedy the problem. just installed them on my rig personally









what I'm referring to is the gray rings around the drive shaft at either end. basically, they hold up against the flanges themselves and keep them from spreading apart under a load, therefore keeping the drive shaft from popping off





correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that's what you're getting at here




and if you're curious, those are Traxxas plastic drive shafts and Traxxas hardened steel yokes, and the Axial rings fit on slugly on them. The Traxxas plastic drives shaft themselves are a direct bolt on, and for 6 complete shafts for $10, you can't beat it

Last edited by iamsuperbleeder; 11-21-2011 at 09:04 PM.
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Old 11-21-2011, 09:17 PM   #20
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Yeah you got my drift..I ordered the mip's like I said in post #2 it's all good.sorry my terminology wasn't correct. How about the POS plastic connector thingys that broke?!
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