SCX10 with tamiya highlift steering box??

[airdreams1]

Going to try this again (since my last post was lost)

Trying to figure out how to use a Highlift steering box in my SCX10. But i cant figure out the correct geomitry. I know Ive seen one on someones rig, but cant find it by serching. If you have pics or know who has done this conversion, please let me know.

Ive tryed several ways & cant get the throw correct. As you can see in the pics below, to get close to full steering the upper goes past the frame both ways & will lock if i let it.





Oh, thats not where I mounted the servo. I just put it there so I wouldnt loose the plate.

Any help would be appriciated.

[Optiskate]

I think I replied to your post that you had before, but in regards to some ones incorrect information on track bars and suspension. Um... Have you tried mounting both the arms so that they run in the same plane/parallel? Then mount the servo up a little higher face down with a linkage from the horn to the upper steering box arm. I don't honestly know if it would work. I've never messed with something like this. Just an idea.

[allgm1]

looks like your steering link (the one from the highlift box to the passenger side knuckle) is to long. When your wheels are pointed straight ahead the lower arm should be parellel to the knuckle arm

[rckjeep]

Maybe a longer arm on top would help. Cool idea toy4crawlin did something similar on his 4runner

[Perkolator]

If I understand what you're saying, youre saying the steering box arm is jamming at the extreme end points of your steering because the throw is getting too close to the apex of the arms turning radius. Like stated by rckjeep, try lengthening the steering arm. It should lessen the travel of the steering box/servo arm.

[airdreams1]

are you saying to lengthen the lower arm on the "steering box" ... or ... lengthen the alumanum (orange & silver) arm?

[old man 52]

Originally Posted by airdreams1

are you saying to lengthen the lower arm on the "steering box" ... or ... lengthen the alumanum (orange & silver) arm?

Yes ,If you make that arm longer '' the bottom steering box arm '' it will give you more throw so you will get lock to lock.

[Perkolator]

I meant steering drag link (your orange/silver one). Lengthen it just a smidge and the knuckle turning limits will hit before the arm has a chance to travel so far that the steering box/servo arm reaches its apex and jam up on you.

[NFA Fabrication]

I actually found these old pictures of when I did this with my tamiya F-350 (Probably 4-5 years ago). This was before the 3 link and panhard conversion. I liked it because it looks even more realistic than most CMS conversions, and allowed for longer links than most CMS conversions, greatly reducing side to side axle movement.

[airdreams1]

Originally Posted by old man 52

Yes ,If you make that arm longer '' the bottom steering box arm '' it will give you more throw so you will get lock to lock.

Ill give it a try. any thoughts on how long I should make it??

Originally Posted by Perkolator

I meant steering drag link (your orange/silver one). Lengthen it just a smidge and the knuckle turning limits will hit before the arm has a chance to travel so far that the steering box/servo arm reaches its apex and jam up on you.

Ill try lengthing it a little more... But it realy long already.

Originally Posted by NFA Fabrication

I liked it because it looks even more realistic than most CMS conversions.

Exactly why I want to try to use it. & Im going to do it without a panhard bar.
But in the end the rig is going to be a "T-Maxx sized" Baja bug body up on a 4x4 chassis (Like i want to do with my 1/1) So I doont know how realistic it will realy look.