My SCX10 Kit Build

[Axial Rose]

Hello everyone!

Which drive shaft combination am I supposed to use?

Thanks!

[Optiskate]

Originally Posted by Axial Rose

Which drive shaft combination am I supposed to use?

Thanks!

I believe I used B and D on my dingo for my initial build. Works find, drive shafts don't separate or bottom out under any circumstances. I'm going to switch to A and E for my rear now that I have a dig unit though.

[Axial Rose]

Okay . . . I found my "tree" that these parts came from and from Axial's web page (LINK) I created the following image. Page 15 of the manual indicates using AX80084 5 & AX80084 1 so that's what I'll do (these are labeled "B" & "D" in the previous photo).

I'll also do a better job of inspecting the trees before I cut everything off from now on (ha).

[Archangel]

So if I understand correctly whether you buy the dingo or the honcho Axial gives you the drive shafts for both?

[sniper101]

When in doubt, use the combination with the most length of interlacing splines lol.

[Axial Rose]

Originally Posted by Archangel

So if I understand correctly whether you buy the dingo or the honcho Axial gives you the drive shafts for both?

Not sure but this combination was on the same parts tree with the Dingo kit version so I would guess so.

Making a little more progress . . .

[meatmonkey]

I don't think that the RTR's come with extra shafts, just the kits.

My Wraith kit came with the parts tree previously shown, which allowed me to put the wild boar shafts on my SCX because the Wraith got MIP's for an AX-10.

Haven't had to try yet, but I'm pretty sure you can cut the longer ones down if you need spares.

Since you can't torque check the shaft retaining bolts once installed, be sure to use loc-tite on them.

Bummer the new kits come with plastic upper Y-link.

[Axial Rose]

Originally Posted by meatmonkey

Bummer the new kits come with plastic upper Y-link.

I want to start out running this machine bone stock.

Later, I plan on several upgrades, one might involve replacing the wishbone link with a four bar system. It seems fairly easy, inexpensive and fun to create a 4 bar link because I've seen others do it successfully (not that I'm very smart).

[Axial Rose]

The soldering is done - not my most favorite part of the build (ha)

[Optiskate]

Originally Posted by Axial Rose

I want to start out running this machine bone stock.

Later, I plan on several upgrades, one might involve replacing the wishbone link with a four bar system. It seems fairly easy, inexpensive and fun to create a 4 bar link because I've seen others do it successfully (not that I'm very smart).

You can build a 4 link with the parts that come in the kit. I did buy on long screw for mine, but it is possible to build a 4 link with what you've got. Hell the 4 link trusses come with the factory parts trees now. That's the reason why I have a 4 link rear on mine.

[arctichorse]

Technically you can 4 link the rear and leave the 3 link upfront, three linking the rear was the worst idea ever err Axial's way of three linking that is.

[AG74683]

Originally Posted by Archangel

So if I understand correctly whether you buy the dingo or the honcho Axial gives you the drive shafts for both?

Generally its cheaper with injection molding to have just the one mold for all part trees rather than separate molds for each kit. Injection molds are expensive!

[Axial Rose]

Thanks Optiskate, arctichorse & AG74683

I'm getting a little closer but wifey wants me to spend time w/her.

Here are a few build notes which are probably only relevant to the kit I'm building:

Page 23, step #29, I used part AX80005[1] instead of AX80032[1] shown

Page 23, step #29, I used part AX80005[2] instead of AX80005[4] shown

There are several build steps which use fasteners which are similar in size so you have to be careful. One example is on page 21, step #23 --> don't confuse the fasteners AXA0414 with AXA465.

Page 19, step #18 --> omit part #AX80009[5]

Make sure the axle bevel gears are seated by pulling them away from the transmission case after they have been inserted. You can probably use a 2mm hex to thread through the hole in the shaft to pull them down (no need to over do it - a simple tug works well).

And a few general build notes for the newbs . . . (photos below) . . .

[AG74683]

One more tip. Dont build the kit while drunk. Good way to have random screws where they shouldnt be!

Still finding some screws in the wrong place.

[Axial Rose]

Originally Posted by AG74683

Still finding some screws in the wrong place.

Still not as bad as getting screwed in the wrong place, eh?

[Axial Rose]

. . . more progress . . .

[Axial Rose]

It works!

I rigged up the ESC, receiver & battery in a temporary safe spot and took it out to the front of the house (in the dark) and crawled on some rocks!

Tomorrow I will either get one of the bodies painted or use one I painted a few years ago (it's a 2 bagger ugly).

I'd probably get the 55T motor if I had to pick again - maybe I can gear this one down.

Just wanted to share the good news.

[Axial Rose]

I wanted to create a decent mount for the ESC & receiver.

I also wanted to create a simple way to mount the battery.

This body was left over from a few years ago when I got out of crawling - I have two others I'll use later but for now, this will get me going.

[Axial Rose]

I need help!

When my crawler is on the table, both of the axle input shafts are angled slightly down - not horizontal, not up.

This can't be right?

I am wondering about the links and I'm thinking one of the following is true:

#1 --> I built it wrong
#2 --> The instructions are wrong
#3 --> The parts are wrong (links provided are not the right length)
#4 --> More than one above

In the following photos, you can see the metal links that came with my kit. All four of these (2 front & 2 rear) measure ~122mm center-to-center.

Also, you can see from the image taken from the instruction manual for an earlier version of the SCX-10, the links that came with the older SCX10 (the plastic ones) measure ~114mm center-to-center.

I thought both of the axle input shafts were supposed to tilt up, not down. Any help with this is most appreciated.

MEGA-THANKS!!!

[Dudeman]

You need new upper links the right length for the lowers you have.

That's just how the kit is. The short ones were too long to 4 link my Dingo kit. :\

10mm shorter upper links is a good starting point. That's gotten me where a washer or 2 will set the pinion angle decently for me.