i was thinkin of goin lipo butttttt

[jimbob78]

I'm not so Sure wat happened here so maybe I better stick to nihm lol

[Carlman]

Nimh gets hot while charging or heavy amp draw whilst running the car, lipos hardly get warm, aslong as you have low voltage detection you won't have a problem.

[Deerhurst]

I've done that to a couple nimh packs, both in the truck and on the charger.

Lipos shouldn't get more then like warm. As long as you treat a lipo well and not over discharge or over charge it you'll be fine.

[tractionaction]

Lipos good for the power, like Deerhurst said just gota treat them with a bit of respect. Get a good Balance charger and make sure you have a lipo cut off. Also water can effect lipos, try sealing them up with silicon, once wet they can swell a bit.

[jimbob78]

I stopped by my lhs today and they had 8 7 cell 8.4 volt 3300 batts that some guy bought for his kids and they didn't like them for their "fast" trucks so he wanted to dump Um for 10 bucks a piece they are racers edge I bought the four that were still in the package haven't had a chance to play yet

[Nvghostrider]

Ive made the switch to LiPo, just not in the trail truck yet. Ran half a pack and was happy having the weight of a NiMh pack with almost twice the capacity. Thinking I'll wait until I'm able to get a few 65-70c 2s batts for the short course before using the 50 c's in the Axial. Wish I had a few of the Eco Power 2s batts I sold with my sc10. Great with 30c and 5000mah at a little over $30 and hard case.

[Slaughter]

Using NIMH is like kicking yourself in the b@lls every time you run your truck. Just make the switch.

[Nvghostrider]

I don't know man, I love 3s in my creeper but using NiMh packs really restricts the torque, wear, and stupid situations I'd put my truck in to that Lipo would pretty much encourage, no, demand. Once I get some aluminum and steel up front and some hardened tranny parts mixed with less plasticky drivelines LiPo will be more than welcome. Then again I'm pretty new to the crawler/scaler game and am under the impression that less is more in order to afford more tinkering and drive time with less breakage and wear.

[Meatwad]

The pic is of a nimh pack bustin at the seams.. and you wanna stick with em?

[jimbob78]

I'm gonna just buck up and go lipo it'll be bout a hundy to get a charger and batt because I shop with my lhs (a guys garage) and I wanna keep him around when I first got into rc I went to the big box store 60 miles away and the a$$hats there sold me couple hundred bucks in dumb stuff that I "needed" but didn't really need then I found this guy (15 miles)and he always makes Sure you get wat u need not just try to sell u the wrong stuff and not take it back he sells racers edge chargers and batts I haven't really read much about Um but I'm Sure they'll b allright I don't think I got hurt on the 7cells don't hurt to have extra batts around lol

[jimbob78]

I just always heard horror stories about people burning there house down and seen YouTube vids of lipos blowin up I was a nitro guy for years and new to batts but im startn to get it go lipo or go home lol

[jimbob78]

So the "c" is the discharge rate so higher the better but the higher the more $$? I still have ae2 speed control I've heard people say not to run 3s because it doesn't have a low voltage cutoff but when I programmed it it gave that as like the first question wit the beeps and all Thanks for the help too guys I've only been scale n for a few months but I've yet to get stumped because of this site

[Nvghostrider]

IMHO LiPo is best used in high speed/high torque applications. Also, my 5000mah 2s lipo is a similar weight to my 6 cell 7.2 volt NiHms. There isn't that much difference in performance between the two but the LiPo runtime is significantly longer. +1 on finding a good local vendor. Having experience and knowledge at your disposal is a benefit to your RC future.

[demonoid369]

Originally Posted by jimbob78

So the "c" is the discharge rate so higher the better but the higher the more $$? I still have ae2 speed control I've heard people say not to run 3s because it doesn't have a low voltage cutoff but when I programmed it it gave that as like the first question wit the beeps and all Thanks for the help too guys I've only been scale n for a few months but I've yet to get stumped because of this site

Do a search, refer to ae-2 and 3s in the search box and you'll find my thread about the question

[demonoid369]

Originally Posted by Meatwad

The pic is of a nimh pack bustin at the seams.. and you wanna stick with em?

Was curious about that too, not sure about a lipo but the pic is of a nimh pack

[jimbob78]

I was just trying to be funny if I can't even keep a nimh from melting down maybe I shouldn't have a lipo lol I was more worried bout making links and tuning shocks and such I wasn't too worried bout electronics I figured the stock stuff works ok so Id get other things in order first b4 I started twisting shafts and such. When I first got my honcho I got shocks and 2.2s and couldn't keep it off its side after some weeks of trial and error tuning she handles great now im ready to rock n roll with some power. I plan on upgrading all electronics but Im in no hurry I just don't wanna buy like 2s lipo and a bec if I plan on getting a esc that can use a 3s with a built in bec that's part of the fun though right?

[jimbob78]

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction I think I got a pretty good idea wats up now...get lipo..get bec .."c" rating is the discharge rate...mah is runtime... Nimh cells 1.2v... Lipo 3.7v... Next ill b beechn bout gear ratios and underdriving overdriven lol

[demonoid369]

No matter what you get for a esc, you'll need to buy a bec,

[demonoid369]

Just wait till you're trying to figure out how to wire it all and properly. Shi* ain't easy sometimes lol

[jimbob78]

Ya my soldering skills are a bit lacking but I can usually get her to stick.