My JK kit assembly.

[project_mayhem]

There are tons of jeep threads here, so I'm not going to waste space with every assembly step.

I finished my chassis setup. I built everything kit stock. I wanted to run stock for a bit so I have a reference for improvements. I encountered a problem with the steering link at the servo arm making contact with the front crossmember behind the bumper mount. Anyone else have this problem?

[dglewis89]

Yes it's the same way on mine. I'm pretty sure that's just how it is. One thing you can do is use and angled rod end on the servo horn side of the linkage, it will give you a few more mm, but it seems like more.

[Dtempleton]

Or you can use a longer servo horn

[05Fronty4x]

Yup, that servo horn is very short. With a longer horn your drag link should actually be angled up slightly to the knuckle. Here's a shot of mine before I put an Axial clamping horn on mine, and it's even longer than that blue Hitec arm.

[Wraith913]

I just took the cross member out

[NorCal 2500HD]

Originally Posted by wraith913

i just took the cross member out

x2...

[05Fronty4x]

That's definitely a quick fix, but there's still the clearance between the link and the frame. Another benefit of getting a longer horn that lowers your drag link is that it will increase clearance for the drivers side tire to flex higher before the link hits the frame rail. If you turn your truck to full lock to the drivers side this link-to-frame clearance decreases even more. In other words, I'd be more concerned with clearance for flexing, and not so much clearance for full bump travel.

[project_mayhem]

Originally Posted by 05Fronty4x

That's definitely a quick fix, but there's still the clearance between the link and the frame. Another benefit of getting a longer horn that lowers your drag link is that it will increase clearance for the drivers side tire to flex higher before the link hits the frame rail. If you turn your truck to full lock to the drivers side this link-to-frame clearance decreases even more. In other words, I'd be more concerned with clearance for flexing, and not so much clearance for full bump travel.

I removed the cross member and then noticed the steering link hitting as well. I'm going to fix it by mounting the servo on the chassis. Getting rid of the front upper link, and fixing the clearance issues. I'll post pics when done.

[05Fronty4x]

Well the chassis-mounted servo will provide it's own clearance limitations. I think the stock servo mount with a combination of a longer servo horn like the Axial clamp-on and/or an angled rod end on the servo end of the drag link will be your best bet for max flexing clearance which is what I was going for in that photo above. That standard aluminum horn wouldn't stay tight for more than a day and I've since installed high clearance knuckles and a clamp-on style servo horn so my geometry is slightly different now, but allows plenty of flexation.

[buddamonk]

Had the same problem.fixed it by putting shorter upper links in and now its clearing fine. I have that same problem on my wraith since i put my titanium links in

[project_mayhem]

I wanted to make a cms setup on my jeep anyways. I was just hoping to run it a bit before I installed one. We got a foot of snow, so I figured I'd just do it now since I'm not going to see dirt for a while. I'll post up pics once I'm finished. It was tricky to make it without frame contact.

[Natedog]

Originally Posted by 05Fronty4x

That's definitely a quick fix, but there's still the clearance between the link and the frame. Another benefit of getting a longer horn that lowers your drag link is that it will increase clearance for the drivers side tire to flex higher before the link hits the frame rail. If you turn your truck to full lock to the drivers side this link-to-frame clearance decreases even more. In other words, I'd be more concerned with clearance for flexing, and not so much clearance for full bump travel.

That's what I did, longer servo arm, no need to remove the frame crossmember. I've seen several bent frames from hard use even with all the crossmembers installed. Agree on the flex.

Originally Posted by buddamonk

Had the same problem.fixed it by putting shorter upper links in and now its clearing fine. I have that same problem on my wraith since i put my titanium links in

SInce you put in what links?

[Salojac]

Originally Posted by buddamonk

Had the same problem.fixed it by putting shorter upper links in and now its clearing fine. I have that same problem on my wraith since i put my titanium links in

I used shorter upper links and shaved the crossmemeber down where it would hit at full compression.

rubicon kit

[project_mayhem]

Here's some pics of my setup so far. The mounts need to be cleaned up and painted. The links are temporary, and the pan hard bar needs to be shaped to clear the bell housing. The shocks will be able to fully compress to the bumpstops, and everything clears during articulation. I put in the blank frame truss just to hold the frame width so the bumper didn't get damaged. I also realize the tires are in the wrong direction, lol.

[chevyfan3]

Looking good.

[05Fronty4x]

Nice and clean looking. Did you make the panhard/3-link mount as well. Could you snap a pic of how it mounts up to the axle?

I've wanted to take on something similar but about all I could do is hack something up with a dremel. I'd probably add a little support to the tab on the bracket that the panhard mounts to, maybe a gusset on the top side there.

[project_mayhem]

Originally Posted by 05Fronty4x

Nice and clean looking. Did you make the panhard/3-link mount as well. Could you snap a pic of how it mounts up to the axle?

I've wanted to take on something similar but about all I could do is hack something up with a dremel. I'd probably add a little support to the tab on the bracket that the panhard mounts to, maybe a gusset on the top side there.

I'm going to add a support when it comes off for cleanup and paint. I'll try to get pics of the three link mount tonight. I used a band saw, files, dremel, and a drill. I bent it with a press brake, but you could do it with a vice or sheet metal piers.

[project_mayhem]

Here's the pic of the axle mount.

[05Fronty4x]

Keep in mind when you bend the panhard you are shortening the eye to eye distance as well. No biggie as it looks like it's longer than your drag link as is.

Very nicely done.

[project_mayhem]

Originally Posted by 05Fronty4x

Keep in mind when you bend the panhard you are shortening the eye to eye distance as well. No biggie as it looks like it's longer than your drag link as is.

Very nicely done.

The links are just temporary for getting the mount points correct for alignment. Both links are going to be remade for final assembly. The shape will change, but eye to eye won't. They're the same length in the picture, but one is 3mm and the other is 4mm, which is a bit deceiving in the pic.

Here's a pic of my mounts cleaned up and ready for paint.