Battery's.

[chattinfarms]

I'm thinking of venturing into the lipos and want some info from you guys. I have two scx10. Both running stock electronics. Can you guys give me an idea of what I should get so I can have super long runtime and some power increase maybe. If you will list the battery's you use and length of runtime that would be great. Also both drag brakes are set at 75 iirc. I have read all the info and my brain is fried also if you could list your charger that would be great too. Thanks

[mncrawler89]

I have a racers edge and a vemon. Both are 2s, 5000 mah 20c. I get about 1 1/2 hours out of each when crawling.

[Ohioskills]

iv got 2 6200 45c and they never die

[Rorro]

dynamite silver 2s 4000 mah lipo, 3 and a half hours of crawling. the same battery only last for 2 hours for a buddy because he is heavy on the throttle.

[TacoCrawler]

I was green when making my initial purchase...
so my local hobby store was able to sell me things I probably didn't need...
and I was likely charged more then I should've paid.

When I purchased my Honcho RTR...
I bought a 2 cell 5000mah LiPo (50C)
This LiPo is a hard case. (LHS branded/generic chinese mfgr'd)
Think I paid near $ 65.00 for it
But it's charge lasts for hours... maybe 5 hours + !? (not 100% sure)

I wanted to try out a 3 cell... (bec required)
so I opted for a Venom LiPo 2100 mah (20C) flight pack.
Much smaller in size and weight compared to the 5000 mah.
Haven't tested the full run time as of yet...
But it was only $ 21.00 to purchase at my lhs.

^ less weight, more power and a cheaper buy in...
can't go wrong with that even if is has a somewhat shorter run time.
* probably still nearing a few hours user time per charge.
But I haven't cycled that battery completely thru...
so don't know for sure.

You don't need a 50C for a RC car...
a 20C will be more then sufficient.

read this if you want to know more about Lipo's

-------------

As far as the charger...
get a "smart charger" and it will be easier, safer
and more efficient charging for your batteries.

IMO don't skimp on the battery charger.
Pay a little more and get a programmable "smart charger"

I opted for the HP (Hobby People) "TAZR"
which can be programmed to charge most any RC battery available.
Once that's programmed it's a two button push charge method...
as the charger will recognize the particular battery used... and start that process.

Here's a link to that...

edit: ummm... the instructions can be somewhat overwhelming for the not so 'puter savvy
But once the programming and function capabilities are learned...
this charger is really easy.

In other words...
if yer a dummy... it's likely you'll be overwhelmed, at least initially !? Lol/jk

[chattinfarms]

Well like I said I've read all of the stuff on here and everywhere else. I'm not new to rc at all but I am new to the lipo. My huge issue is there is so much info and its hard to wrap your head around what would be best

[boohoo]

i use turnigy nano-tech hardcase 5300mah 2s 30-60c and i get about 2 1/2-3 hrs from each battery best bit is they cost about £15 each roughly about $23 from hobbyking.

if you want increased performance the easiet way is a 3s lipo or change your motor to something like a 21t with a 18t pinion it will be like a electric buggy speed wise but then you have the problem of no real drag brake as the motor doesnt have any real torque like a 35t would. i run a 27t motor with a 18t pinion and i have the torque i need and also the speed i need when i want it.

[raceeng18]

I used to buy 5000 and 6000 mah 2's lipos and got a couple of hours of run time. But they were too heavy and made the rig want to tip sideways. They were mounted up front above my servo. Now I buy these in 2200 and 1600 mah and get about 45 minutes of run time while crawling and the tipping problem has been eliminated.

[fj40jay]

I run 2s SPC 5000 mah, great batteries and a great company. cheap too.
If you switch to lipo, you will wonder why you didn't do it earlier.

[meatmonkey]

Picking a lipo comes down the cost/MAH/weight.

I run 4000mah 30C FlySky packs most of the time for general trailing. If I want to do some precise crawling I have some 2200mah 20C Turnigy soft cases that ditch a lot of sprung weight and increase the stablity and climbing ability of the truck.

You can also typically get multiple smaller MAH packs for the cost of 1 larger MAH pack. Example: My 2200's cost about $8 a piece from HobbyKing. The 4000mah cost $26 from Hobbypartz.

I get easily over an hour with the 2200's (I'm easy on the throttle, your mileage may vary) and easily over 2.5 hours with the 4000mah.

Even though a 6 cell nimh is rated at 7.2 volts, and a 2 cell Lipo is rated at 7.4 volts, there is a noticeable increase in torque and topend going to the Lipo.

If you really want power, got straight for the 3s packs and run a Castle BEC to power the receiver and servo. The stock ESC will tolerate 3s use as long as you don't rely on it's internal BEC. If you run 3s without an external BEC you will overheat the stock esc.

Going from a 2s to a 3s will increase torque, speed, and wear on the motor, by %50. It will also quicken your drivetrain upgrades. The SCX's drivetrain is surprisingly durable on 2s, and seemingly fragile if driven with a heavy finger on 3s.

I have some 5000mah packs, and while they do physically fit, they raise the center of gravity too much and throw off the balance of the truck. For those reasons I consider a large MAH pack unnecessary on an crawler.

[KMW]

I'm running a Turnigy Nano-Tech 5100 Mah hard case saddle pack on my Honcho. I mounted them on top of the sliders. I'm getting into three hours run time on them.

I know they say Turnigy is hit or miss, but so far I am very happy with the $14 this one cost.

[Deerhurst]

I run a couple zippy 5700mAh 50c packs and a sky lipo 5000mAh 20c. I've never had good luck with nano tech packs. A 4-5000mAh pack will give enough run time for you to get bored.