08-28-2013, 09:28 AM | #1 |
Newbie Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: stockton
Posts: 13
| steering knuckles
i broke my plastic ones and need to upgrade should i go with the axial aluminum ones or the st ones? thanks.
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08-28-2013, 09:48 AM | #2 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Placer County
Posts: 843
| Re: steering knuckles
Any metal ones are going to be an upgrade. I prefer the hi steer version. VP is also an option. Get the ones you can afford. Thing is though, once you put metal knuckles, the c-hubs will be next to go and you'll also want a metal steering link...then something else needs beefing and the cycle continues |
08-28-2013, 12:09 PM | #3 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 3,099
| Re: steering knuckles
I've broke 3 chubs and 5 steering knuckles I need to move up to alloy axle parts too ! But like the guy above said... one fix or correction seems to lead to or require another. IMO... If doing the alloy chubs, S. knuckles and lockouts... then axle "Beef Tubes" need be purchased or made as well. Reason being... screwing alloy parts into a plastic axle housing is still a weak link IMO. My damn chub screws kept backing out... So I went with slightly longer, over sized screws (incl. a little CA). ^ helps... but is only a band aide still. A better fix would be the chubs/lockouts screwing into metal Beef Tubes. A little locktite and now everything else will break instead !? LoL I'd also look at the adjustable alloy parts that offer more castor capability. This can help better align the drive shafts for smoother running and increase their consumable life. And with improvement or correction to the altered steering geometry. Just remember... the problematic issues only come to end... when you sell all of it and get out ! Otherwise... it will be a money pit. LoL Last edited by TacoCrawler; 08-28-2013 at 12:12 PM. |
08-28-2013, 09:47 PM | #4 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Tekin, ID
Posts: 1,940
| Re: steering knuckles
^Are you using coarse thread hardware or machine thread? Anything going into plastic should be machine screws, more threads to bite into the plastic. Ever since I switched my chub/lockout hardware I haven't had one back out. Now all my rigs are built with M3 hardware pretty much everywhere. OP, I would go for the Axial parts or VP. I have done the chubs, knuckles and VVDs on all three of my rigs and couldn't be happier! Just because you upgrade a few things doesn't mean you have to build a fully upgraded rig bumper to bumper. Mine have basic upgrades, such as the above, MIP driveshafts HD front lockers, axle lockouts and shocks. I like the plastic axle housings, they slide nice and do fine for me. If you build your rig properly, maintain it and drive smart it will last a very long time. I G6'd my Wraith with 100% stock drivetrain, shocks and axles at Axialfest last year and made it all three stages without breaking. This year it had chubs, knuckles, VVDs, HD front locker, MIPs, GMade shocks and rear lockouts and made it all three again. This was running ROC412 brushless too. Last edited by Ty@Tekin; 08-28-2013 at 09:54 PM. |
08-28-2013, 10:15 PM | #5 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 3,099
| Re: steering knuckles Quote:
I've since replaced those with Traxxas 3 X 8 mm machined screws. They stay secured better then the original screws. But I think the original screws fubar'd the holes in the plastic housing somewhat. So I use a tiny drop of CA to keep these machined screws tight. Haven't backed out since. Wished I have not got an rtr and purchased a SS screw kit for original assembly. during my last splashing episode... every dang screw is rusting. Guess I gotta buy that SS screw kit now. Last edited by TacoCrawler; 08-28-2013 at 10:21 PM. | |
08-28-2013, 11:00 PM | #6 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Tekin, ID
Posts: 1,940
| Re: steering knuckles
Yeah if the stock hardware buggered up the holes then you might need new housings. Stainless are great, that's what I'm using! You could probably buy hardware cheaper from McMaster Carr or somewhere than buying a whole kit. |
08-29-2013, 08:48 AM | #7 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Little Rock, Arkansas
Posts: 542
| Re: steering knuckles
I'd go with the axial parts.
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08-29-2013, 12:39 PM | #8 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2010 Location: scotland
Posts: 345
| Re: steering knuckles
i`d stick with standard parts i got a set of alloy knuckles and they were junk after 6 runs they started to go oval shaped
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08-30-2013, 07:34 PM | #9 |
Newbie Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: stockton
Posts: 13
| Re: steering knuckles
i think im going to go with the VANQUISH, ones
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08-31-2013, 10:36 AM | #10 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Vermont
Posts: 2,016
| Re: steering knuckles
I like the Axial aluminum standard knuckles. Use 3mm machine threaded bolts for the chubs and they will hold up much better. I've been running my first scx-10 like that since 2009 and they are still the original plastic chubs.
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09-01-2013, 05:48 AM | #11 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Spartanburg
Posts: 860
| Re: steering knuckles
Just keep an eye on the knuckles. If you start getting slop in them...replace the bushings and you will be good to go again!
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