Question about 1/4" stainless steel rod and cutting?

[ZippoMan]

Hello folks. I acquired a Wrangler SCX10 that came with nice lower links but they are too long. It also has T-maxx driveshafts and the angle of the front shaft is a little too steep for my liking. The u-joint at the diff end gets very warm because of the housing pinion angle. I think if the lower links were a tad shorter it would be fine. Also the u-joint is exposed and has hit rocks and who knows what being a used but new to me RC.

Anyway can I shorten the 1/4" SS rods easily or not? I don't have any fancy tools. I do have some dies that I was thinking maybe thread my way down to the size for the revo rod ends? Is that a dumb way to do it? I really am clueless.

I also tried swapping the various links front and rear all to have same issue. Maybe all I need to do is lubricate the u-joint with a wax dry lube or bike chain lube? That might keep the heat down? I don't even know what normal angles are for an SCX10 because I have never owned one until now.

I only have the downloadable manual for the Wrangler and it just shows stock suspension links.....the one I bought has four custom made links. The uppers are all straight aluminum rods and the lowers are slightly curved 1/4" SS.

Any help or comments would be appreciated. Again sorry if I sound like a dumbass.

[raceeng18]

I will assume that your pumpkin is pointing towards the ground? If that's the case and you want to keep the wheelbase the same, you could lengthen the upper links either with some spacers (temporary) or you could make longer links from all thread and tubing or brake line. In my opinion, you want your pumpkin pointing upward. You can also point it up too far and create the same problem you're having now. That is if I am understanding correctly.

EDIT: You may also want to check your pinion and ring gear for lubrication.

[Meatwad]

If the wheelbase is where you like it... Why not just make some longer uppers?

[ZippoMan]

Cool thanks guys!! I will try my hand at making longer uppers!! That should help ;) You guys ROCK!!

Yes the angle of the front is almost straight out, meaning no upward tilt!! So longer uppers it is!

[ZippoMan]

Originally Posted by raceeng18

You can also point it up too far and create the same problem you're having now. That is if I am understanding correctly.

Yeah I tried making the upper links longer and it is amazing how little you have to play with length. I was liking the angle I set up with about 3mm longer uppers but the servo horn would hit the front frame cross member so I had to shorten them to just 1mm or so longer. It made a difference in the angle and I also lubed the big centre ball in the Traxxas T-Maxx shafts with White Lightning. No more heat issues and it seems smoother and happier in general. Minor tweaks!! Who knew.

I am learning lots with the SCX10. It seems more complex than a Wraith.

[raceeng18]

I'm glad it worked out for you ZippoMan. A lot of people remove that brace, including me, to avoid the servo contact and improve articulation. You can also notch it in the area of the horn but then it's pretty flimsy and not much of a brace any longer.

[ZippoMan]

Yeah I was thinking of notching it but wasn't sure if it was a good idea. You removed it? How did you brace the frame then? Is there something else you can use there? Or you just don't care? The guy who had this before me added the VP c-hubs and 8 degree knuckles. It changed the steering from stock but to me I don't even know stock..hehehe. My first SCX10 is this Jeep.


Edited post:
I just looked at my Jeep and DOH!! I can't notch or remove that brace. I forgot the previous owner moved the battery to the front and it uses that cross brace. I love the battery up front so I guess I have to live with the links and what I have. It is cool

[raceeng18]

I don't care. I don't beat on my equipment. I do run it into rocks, it does get rolled but I don't foresee it ever taking an endo down a forty foot cliff either. Some have made a brace from steel rod and mounted it forward of the servo and steering linkage. I just don't see the need for it. Besides, it's plastic. If you squeeze the frame together at the brace you can see it flex if nothing is attached to it.

[raceeng18]

Edited post:
I just looked at my Jeep and DOH!! I can't notch or remove that brace. I forgot the previous owner moved the battery to the front and it uses that cross brace. I love the battery up front so I guess I have to live with the links and what I have. It is cool

You may get rid of that soon too. I used to run my battery up front in all of my rigs. I thought the bigger the better for that forward weight. Well a couple of wise people here (Natedog and Postclanker) have changed my way of thinking. I now run 3 cell lipos instead of 2 cell lipos and in the range of 1300mah. They are mounted low on the chassis to help with the center of gravity and still give me right at 40 minutes run time. This is an old photo, the winch controller now sits ontop of the servo and the winch battery sits on the r2j slider.. I've done the same on my Honcho. I made a brass plate that straddles the slider and the battery sits on that with velcro.