scx10 wants to be on it's lid more than it's wheels.

[realsickclown]

My scx10 won't stay on its wheels. I'm going to try messing with the suspension but if it was any softer its already at half compression just sitting. I've got beef tubes and some alloy parts. It was horrible to drive
My whole set up has to be wrong.

[raceeng18]

Where is your battery and how large is it. Running stock shocks or taller? 2.2 tires and wheels?

[Perkolator]

Step 1 - improve driving skills by driving it as much as possible to learn rig and limitations.
2 - lower COG as much as possible.
3 - get slight weight in wheels if you already have beef tubes
4 - refer back to step 1

A stock scx10 is a VERY capable rig in stock form if you can get the weight slightly lower than stock setup and weight your wheels.

[6sharky9]

You need to spend more money on it..stock rigs are garbage..ask most on here...J/K

Even with the lowest center of gravity possible for your truck and added weight in the wheels it still has limits..not sure if you mean your flopping it over going up hill or trying to take a hill or rock sideways but both require the same and different mods to help eliminate that within limits

Most want to go with longer shocks and put all this heavy aluminum and steel above the frame and use bigger 2.2 tires causing them to have to raise the body even more; adding to such problems...Its more than just bolting on parts someone recommends to get the truck to perform.

theres a way to reatain your added travel of your shocks and not raise your truck but if you use 2.2 wheels/tires its not much of a change as you have the wheels to worry about rubbing on the body...So its a give and take based on ones decisions to change certain things.

[Meatwad]

More details on setup can help. Also remember more suspension articulation can often times get you into a situation not easily able to get out of. A more predictable suspension setup is easier to drive. Also driving style, the approach to an obstacle matters.

[6sharky9]

Originally Posted by Meatwad

More details on setup can help. Also remember more suspension articulation can often times get you into a situation not easily able to get out of. A more predictable suspension setup is easier to drive. Also driving style, the approach to an obstacle matters.

I changed to 100mm shocks but found them to not help me any on anything...limited them to 93 mm and retained stock height if not slightly lower but still have more travel and articulation than stock.

You can see my passenger side wheel just about flat to the surface and not even close to a sign of flipping over...Its equal to the angle of what you see the drivers side tire is.

[Meatwad]

Yeah that's why the question for the op, there's not much there for scale doodads in your pic. If the op has alot of high weight, no amount of suspension limiting will help.

[6sharky9]

Originally Posted by Meatwad

Yeah that's why the question for the op, there's not much there for scale doodads in your pic. If the op has alot of high weight, no amount of suspension limiting will help.

Agreed.

[TacoCrawler]

Originally Posted by 6sharky9

I changed to 100mm shocks but found them to not help me any on anything...

^ weird...

My 100 mm CO's offer better (more) articulation then was original.
And I only flop it when I'm pushing the rig's limits and/or capabilities.
I have no regret with installing my 100 mm CO's.
And I am not the only, nor first, to run 100mm CO's.
They have worked well for most others whom have attempted
to fit those.

6sharky9, I think it must be that 2s mentality you have

OP-------------------

^ yes, there are limitations to any rig's capability.

Mine will side hill 10X better then what my 1:1 ever could.
And is also much improved over the stock susp. configuration.
The key is weight placed low on the chassis and axles.

Sprung weight will just make it top heavy (floppy).
But weighted axles and wheels will compensate some
for any additional weight added to the chassis.

The center of gravity (COG) is a critical thing.
Placement of weight on the chassis can fubar
that balance.

Battery weight needs to be placed low on the chassis.
Good idea for the other components as well.
The stock battery mounting locations on the chassis
can be overly top heavy, IMO.
Not to mention: folks tend to employ a 5000mah battery
that is excessively heavy.
There are lighter batteries to be had...
Run time capacity should not be the only thought
when considering what battery to purchase.
Excessive weight mounted on the chassis will always be an enemy.

I mount my battery(s) to the slider mounts. (Lower-COG)
I also installed STD beef tubes in both axles.
as well... alloy C-hubs/knuckles (8*).
To finish that off... 4 fully weighted bead lock wheels.

Granted I never travel faster then maybe 4 mph.
But when crawling and at extreme angles...
seems to do very well.

Are your expectations higher the what a 1:1 is capable of ?
Meaning: Out the box.. the SCX-10 chassis/susp. does better
in scale articulation... then most 1:1 rigs can do.

Got Video of your driving ? Pictars of your chassis ?
So we might see if there is any error on your part ?
Is it possible you're attempting to climb things that
no rig is capable of ? (scale perspective)


What shock oil weight do you use ?
If that's too heavy (thick) it will slow down
CO's response time.
This delay can cause the articulation to respond too slowly
at critical moments and not allow the CO to compress/rebound as it needs to.
A lighter shock oil tends to react better at slow speeds
and articulate with a faster response.
Some even choose to run no shock oil at all.

At higher speeds more dampening is required.
But for crawling at slow speeds...
heavy dampening can cause too much articulation resistance.

I think you need share more details/specifics concerning your complaint.
Detailing what obstacle are you having difficulties with ?

[lsone]

I think this is just a case of someone bought an scx10 thinking its supposed to handle like a slash 4x4. 2 totally different animals.

/thread

[realsickclown]

Originally Posted by lsone

I think this is just a case of someone bought an scx10 thinking its supposed to handle like a slash 4x4. 2 totally different animals.

/thread

NO,NO I would never buy a slash, that being said. the rig is the scx10 rubicon kit. first I tried the stock JK body and thought it was top heavy , the I got the proline 73 bronco w/cgr, still its top heavy . I running rc4wd wagon wheels with the trepadors w/ C.I. foams, beef tubes, HH crawlmaster 13T on 3s & br-xl waterproofed. my battery is in the rear cause the 3s wont fit up front at the moment, not without moving everything around the 3s pack is to fat and keep proper body height.

[realsickclown]

I'm also running stock icon shocks. im going to try a set of high mass weighted wheels and see if that don't help?

[6sharky9]

^ weird...

My 100 mm CO's offer better (more) articulation then was original.
And I only flop it when I'm pushing the rig's limits and/or capabilities.
I have no regret with installing my 100 mm CO's.
And I am not the only, nor first, to run 100mm CO's.
They have worked well for most others whom have attempted
to fit those.

6sharky9, I think it must be that 2s mentality you have

Lol...just saying in general when i left them 100mm the truck would flip over a lot easier..Yea i got more travel but it didn't out weigh the problem with tipping over.
I just found limiting them to 93mm which still gave me more travel worked out a lot better for me.//I guess you could get wheel spacers and widen the track to make it not as bad but that's not how i chose to fix the problem.

[realsickclown]

Originally Posted by Perkolator

Step 1 - improve driving skills by driving it as much as possible to learn rig and limitations.
2 - lower COG as much as possible.
3 - get slight weight in wheels if you already have beef tubes
4 - refer back to step 1

A stock scx10 is a VERY capable rig in stock form if you can get the weight slightly lower than stock setup and weight your wheels.

I have drove my Wraith for a long while now. This scx10 is not the same animal as the wraith. I've been thinking maybe I have to much motor?

[6sharky9]

Originally Posted by realsickclown

I'm also running stock icon shocks. im going to try a set of high mass weighted wheels and see if that don't help?

Weighting down the wheels might help a little but its not the holy grail of solving it...Where is your battery mounted?..If its on the rear its a high center of gravity..even if on the front over the axle its the same problem...Some use 2 smaller batteries on the side skids to lower a lot of the weight..Some like myself use saddle pack batteries which is basicly the same thing.

relocation of batteries and electronics seems to be what most do to help with that problem.

You will find a lot better traction from weighting the wheels than it will help with tipping over.

[6sharky9]

Originally Posted by realsickclown

I have drove my Wraith for a long while now. This scx10 is not the same animal as the wraith. I've been thinking maybe I have to much motor?

Explain more what you mean by tipping over...Doing wheelies and flipping over?...on a side hill that's not very steep and it flips down the hill?

Are you going up hill and flooring it making it flip over?

[realsickclown]

Originally Posted by 6sharky9

Explain more what you mean by tipping over...Doing wheelies and flipping over?...on a side hill that's not very steep and it flips down the hill?

Are you going up hill and flooring it making it flip over?

If it gets just a little off camber it will be on it's side. I am really starting to think my over all set up is poor, after reading hundreds of pages in the search section I need to move the electronics around, ditch the trepadors, redo my shocks(thinking I used an open bottle of 40wt). I'll be back with the results of: battery fwd or saddle packs, weighted flatirons 1.9, 30wt in shocks, maybe some junfac 13mm offset wheel wideners to increase overall track width.

[johnnyh66]

Originally Posted by realsickclown

weighted flatirons 1.9

stay away from the Flat Irons if you don't already have them... they look better than they perform.

[realsickclown]

Originally Posted by johnnyh66

stay away from the Flat Irons if you don't already have them... they look better than they perform.

already have them. in 2.2 &1.9 I like them for where we drive besides the fact they have clearance issues. They perform better than the 1.9 trepadors. the treps just clog up and the tread pattern is to close together. I'll take your set if you don't want them!

[johnnyh66]

Originally Posted by realsickclown

already have them. in 2.2 &1.9 I like them for where we drive besides the fact they have clearance issues. They perform better than the 1.9 trepadors. the treps just clog up and the tread pattern is to close together. I'll take your set if you don't want them!

The 2.2's are a different story than the 1.9's that came on a stock Axial SCX10 years ago...
I already sold mine a few years back for $15.
But then again, I sold a set of 1.9 IROK's for $20