R2J Kustoms link install Honcho RTR???

[93toy]

So I've searched to try to avoid posting a new question but I can't find a simple answer.

I have a bone stock Honcho RTR and I just received my R2J Kustoms stainless links (Part #GR14WRONCH). The plan is to convert to full 4-link up front using the Axial supplied front truss. I am still waiting for some hardware to come in from Tower Hobbies to install the front truss, but here is my question based on what I'm experiencing so far.

I'm quite sure I installed the links in the wrong locations to begin with because I was just installing the exact same length in each position as I removed the old ones. This left me with two REALLY long ones to go in the upper front position which clearly wouldn't work.

So after much research I have determined one thing….everyone is using different length links! I'm not just talking Honcho vs. Dingo, I mean everyone is using different lengths! LOL!

Anyway, here's where I'm at right now. I've got 8 links total and these are the rough measurements NOT including the ends, rods only:

3-3/4" x4
3-3/8" x2
3-1/2" x2

So I have the 3-3/4" links installed lower front and rear. 3-1/2" links installed upper rear, and the 3-3/8" I assume will go upper front. Does this sound like the correct placement?

As I mentioned, the front truss is not in place yet, but it looks like the servo horn is going to hit the front crossmember once everything is in place. So does this mean that I have the links in the wrong location again or does it mean that this kit requires trimming or removing the front crossmember?

I am a self-proclaimed newb so please have patience with me.

Thanks.

[R2j]

The 2-"3.75 x 1/4"dia." are the rear lowers, the 2-"3.75" x 3/16"dia." are the rear uppers, the 2-"3.5" x 1/4"dia." front lowers and the 2-"3.375" x 3/16"dia." are front uppers. Link lengths are 98mm front and 106mm rear, you had both the rear links, which are the longest links, in the wrong position.

The equal length rears are not the same as the stock lengths, mine are designed to kick the rear pinion up to reduce drive line angles.

[rcnick157]

Just make sure you have the short links on top

[Lentsnh2012]

Originally Posted by rcnick157

Just make sure you have the short links on top

Very nice and thought out information...

[93toy]

Thanks everyone for the help!

Shon- So it sounds like once I get everything in the right location there will be no need for any modification or removal of the front crossmember, correct? Everything should clear?

Again, I really appreciate your help!

[93toy]

Originally Posted by Lentsnh2012

Very nice and thought out information...

[TacoCrawler]

Originally Posted by 93toy

So after much research I have determined one thing….everyone is using different length links! I'm not just talking Honcho vs. Dingo, I mean everyone is using different lengths! LOL!

It's likely folks are using different length link rod ends
and that will vary the overall length of the link.

Originally Posted by R2j

The 2-"3.75 x 1/4"dia." are the rear lowers, the 2-"3.75" x 3/16"dia." are the rear uppers, the 2-"3.5" x 1/4"dia." front lowers and the 2-"3.375" x 3/16"dia." are front uppers. Link lengths are 98mm front and 106mm rear, you had both the rear links, which are the longest links, in the wrong position.

The equal length rears are not the same as the stock lengths, mine are designed to kick the rear pinion up to reduce drive line angles.

Are your link rods designed to utilize Revo end links ? or what ?

[93toy]

I think you're right. I was just surprised how many variables there were when I Googled "Honcho RTR link length". A ton of reading on that search!

[R2j]

Originally Posted by 93toy

Shon- So it sounds like once I get everything in the right location there will be no need for any modification or removal of the front crossmember, correct? Everything should clear?

Again, I really appreciate your help!

Correct.

Originally Posted by TacoCrawler

Are your link rods designed to utilize Revo end links ? or what ?

Yes, they come assembled with Revo rod ends.

[93toy]

So here's the latest. All links are in place exactly as specified above. Rear is fine, front will not work. 3.5x1/4" lower and 3.375x3/16 upper. The horn on the front of the servo strikes the front crossmember and will not even mount into position. Any suggestions? Based on the part number listed in my first post, did I receive the correct kit?

[Dostradamas]

are those for a WRONCHO conversion? (AR60 axles on SCX10 chassis)

[93toy]

I'm not sure. When I ordered I stated that I need links for a stock RTR Honcho and I wanted a direct bolt-on converting to 4 link with the Axial truss.

I am a self proclaimed newb, but I am mechanically inclined. I'm not saying I couldn't have made a mistake, but I really think I've assembled everything correctly and there is just not enough room. I don't want to remove the crossmember, but I had really hoped I could have a fully functioning, stainless steel 4link setup.

[Dostradamas]

take some pics.

I am not familiar with all r2j offers (part # makes me wonder) & I could not find a clear listing of what sets are offered (by part #) so?

Get some clear shots of where your issues are & post em up

[93toy]

I'm not sure if this helps much?

[93toy]

in the overhead shot you can see the servo horn is directly underneath the front crossmember.

[93toy]

Could anyone who has done this install offer any advice? Or does anyone have any feedback on what their part number was for their application?

[Salojac]

Originally Posted by 93toy

in the overhead shot you can see the servo horn is directly underneath the front crossmember.

I notched out the cross member with a dremel. Make the notch wide just be careful not to go too deep. Works fine and you can still use to support front batt mount configuration

Later I removed all together when I went with Jevne batt mount.

[93toy]

Just to make sure I'm clear, you had the same links on the same RTR Honcho and had the same issue? Do you feel the frame is still strong with the crossmember removed?

[93toy]

I hope to keep the front crossmember. I'd hate to put in stainless links trying to strengthen the chassis, then weaken it by removing a crossmember. Anyone else have any input? I'm dead in the water.

[Meatwad]

Deleting that crossmember won't weaken anything, if its not needed just remove. The main 3 one should keep are the crossmember at the front shocks, skid and at the rear shocks. Going with steel bumpers will further stiffen the chassis for you.