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05-26-2014, 07:05 AM | #1 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Erie
Posts: 208
| Robinson Racing Outdrive diff gear question
Just installed the Robinson Racing Outdrive Diff Lock Gear in my G6.Robinson Racing Outdrive Diff Lock Gear AX10/SCX10 Currently still using the stock driveshafts. The problem that I am having is the front shaft keeps sliding off the outdrive. I am using just a grub screw to hold the driveshaft onto the outdrive . The stock outdrive has holes for pins to go through. Should I try to drill holes through the RR outdrive, or maybe just a dimple on the outputs for the grub screw to sit in? Does anybody else have or had the same problem? If so what did you do? Thanks
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05-26-2014, 07:24 AM | #2 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 3,196
| Re: Robinson Racing Outdrive diff gear question
did you put locktite on the grub screw?..personally i would try and drill holes in the outdrive...
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05-26-2014, 09:14 AM | #3 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: s. terra firma
Posts: 519
| Re: Robinson Racing Outdrive diff gear question
I would use blue locktite in the set screws( part number axa180 axial part number). Tighten them down hand tight. Wipe off the excess in the set screw hole. Let the locktite dry for 24 hours. I would not try to drill through the output unless a last resort. It's hardened and would be hard to drill through. Plus the hole would have to be pretty close to perfectly centered and spaced out from the end of the shaft. Not a lot of room for error.
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05-26-2014, 09:27 AM | #4 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Tracy
Posts: 192
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Drill a dimple then crank a grub screw down Sent from a whiskey downer beer pounder's shop |
05-26-2014, 09:59 AM | #5 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Rancho Relaxo. California. USA. Earth.
Posts: 3,292
| Re: Robinson Racing Outdrive diff gear question
Agreed, a dimple and/or grind a double flat on the opposite side of the stock flat. Thru hole outputs are nice, but lack the durability in harsher rigs and situations (heavier, more powah, higher voltage etc). Also trying to drill a hole can change the material if its heated too much, could be for the better or worse. Not many manufacturers will release specs of the material used.
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05-26-2014, 10:32 AM | #6 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Beavercreek, Oregon, USA
Posts: 1,950
| Re: Robinson Racing Outdrive diff gear question
It helps to use a set screw on both sides of the shaft, not just the side with the flat. I also used a little bit longer set screw so it extended just enough so that I could slot it with a dremel tool if it stripped out. If you really need that one piece diff, you probably should invest in a set of MIP's. MIP #08101 has larger diameter set screws which will help hold the shaft on better and you can use the Traxxas #5145 pins for the diffs. |
05-26-2014, 07:51 PM | #7 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Erie
Posts: 208
| Re: Robinson Racing Outdrive diff gear question
Thanks guys for the quick responses. I tried to put a dimple with a drill bit and power drill, and found out this metal is super hard. You would probably need a drill press and a titanium bit just to scratch the surface. I was able however to get a small impression by using a hammer and punch. I also put grub screws on the round side as extra measure. I am now realizing that this output drive is a bit overkill for my setup. I should of order the other one, but will stick with this one for now. I plan upgrading to MIP's when the budget allows (vacation in less than 3 weeks, been saving $$$), but the stockers haven't giving me issues yet. I was doing just fine with my stock transmission set up, but one of my buddy let his dad drive it (without any instruction) and stripped the transmission gears in about 5 seconds flat. A few quick jabs of full throttle in either direction with 3s and no teeth left on the gear... |
05-27-2014, 08:24 PM | #8 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Hudsonville, MI
Posts: 875
| Re: Robinson Racing Outdrive diff gear question
I did the same as you. I purchased the RRP1542 (one piece diff gear), and then realized that I probably wouldn't need it. So I just purchased the RRP steel diff gear, and going to use my stock Axial outdrives on it. I have MIP drive shafts, so the pin screw will fit through the hole on the stock outdrives. I'll give it a whirl and see what happens. If I run into issues, I'll get another RRP1542 and have it drilled or dimple it.
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05-27-2014, 09:21 PM | #9 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Tracy
Posts: 192
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My carbide bits hit em no problem. That's my $290 set from work though .Try a cobalt bit..you can get em at home depot. Cobalt is sharper then Ti. Then Carbide..Not sure smallest you can get. Ive used cobalt bits to drill cheap tool steel..so it MIGHT drill it...go slow though. Your better off chucked in a drill press though as stated Sent from a whiskey downer beer pounder's shop |
05-27-2014, 09:23 PM | #10 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Tracy
Posts: 192
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FYI I run 3mm grub screws on my MIP's in my ECX that runs on 3S and 4S occasionally. And that is a basher. Grub screws ftw! Sent from a whiskey downer beer pounder's shop |
06-09-2014, 09:32 AM | #11 |
Newbie Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: The Durty Burg
Posts: 15
| Re: Robinson Racing Outdrive diff gear question
I have this gear installed in mine. Is there a drive shaft end that will attach to it without needing a grub screw? One that' formed to fit over that end? I think that would be the best solution.
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06-09-2014, 09:42 AM | #12 | |
RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,630
| Re: Robinson Racing Outdrive diff gear question Quote:
As mentioned, take a punch or drill a pilot hole for the grub screw to have something to grab on to and blue lock tight it, let it dry for the proper cure time. I would run a 2nd grub screw on the back side for extra help. | |
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