tekin redline gen1-will not fit??

[jenijohnk]

i'm sure this is answered here somewhere,but i couldn't find it...... i have a wraith and wanted to try a scx10--. i wanted to put my tekin redline gen-1 21.5 brushless motor in it.. BUT it wont fit?? it hits the upper y-arm and nut where it meets the frame.. any suggestions?

[svt923]

What gearing are you running? A smaller pinion and spur could allow you to slide your motor over enough to clear the link mount screw.

[jenijohnk]

no gearing at all.. the can jut wont sit flush against the motor plate.. its too long..

[jenijohnk]

do you have to put spacers under the trans to raise it up?

[801RYAN]

Fit right on to my wraith no mods at all

[jenijohnk]

thanks,but thats a wraith.. i have a wraith with a roc412.. fits no problem.. but the link set-up's are completely different

[svt923]

You can reverse the screw holding on the upper link to gain some more clearance (screw on the inside, locknut on the outside of the frame). Upper links that use rod ends instead of the RTR plastic upper 3 link provide some more clearance as well.

[jenijohnk]

i did the bolt flip..i can get the top bolt in but still no love on the bottom... its stock so i don't have the 4 link rod end uppers.. it really never occurred to me that it wouldn't fit. took it for granted because of my wraith..

[jenijohnk]

do you just trim the inside of the link?

[TacoCrawler]

is the Tekin 21.5 brush less closed end bell motor can
longer then an Axial brushed closed end bell motor can ?

just curious...
because I installed a Axial 55T stock brushed motor
into my Wraith without any issue.

[jenijohnk]

The tekin is 3mm longer than axial 20t. On the wraith the link is being and to the side.... but on the scx10 it ends up UNDER the motor... pushing it up.. which angles it and does not allow you to bolt it to the mounting plate... this can,t be that uncommon? I see people using these motors...what's the trick/mod??

[meatmonkey]

I've run the Redline Gen1 in and SCX. It's no magic trick, but the recipe seems to be ditching the upper Y-link for a true 4 link (which should be done for more than just motor clearance issues) with a narrower rod end. Running a buttonhead bolt (instead of a cap-head) from the inside of the frame with the nut on the outside, and run gearing between 80/17 and 87/14-12 to keep the motor away from the bolt.

In the end, my particular setup has maybe a hairs width of space between the can and the head of the bolt.

[801RYAN]

Originally Posted by jenijohnk

thanks,but thats a wraith.. i have a wraith with a roc412.. fits no problem.. but the link set-up's are completely different

Yeah I'm a dork, , I seen the reference to the Wraith in the original post but then glossed right over the scx10 part.

[Eric0424]

Unbolt the transmission, bolt the motor down and push it as close to the trans case as possible. Then re-install the transmission. It's not rocket science, but it does involve a little more work than the shorter and/or tapered can 540's and you need to use the button head screw from the inside. I just put a 55mm long straight can 550 (Reedy 550-SL) in my SCX10, it actually fit without removing the transmission but would have been a little easier if the trans is pulled first.

If you want more room for gearing options, trim the Y-link so the head of the screw sits closer to the frame rail.

[Eric0424]

If you need more clearance trim away the red section of the Y-link in the picture below.

[jenijohnk]

first off-- i want to send out a big thanks to all who replied!!!. my issues were multiple. 1. unbolting the trans-- motor still wouldn't fit flush--ended up trimming a 1mm off the plastic part that the gear cover would bolt on to. it pushed down on the motor can not allowing it to be bolted in flush/rotate so you can get both bolts in.. 2.. flipping that link bolt. After those repairs-- the motor gentle rests on top of the link screw head. a slight flex and you can get a gap.. I'm sure it will rub on the can some,but i don't see it being a issue. Really--THANKS AGAIN FOR ALL YOUR SUGGESTIONS..john

[m0d3ds1ash45]

what do you mean its not fitting right...i just put in and still have a tekin redline gen1 17.5 in my scx10 just got to run the bolt backwards!

[Eric0424]

Originally Posted by m0d3ds1ash45

what do you mean its not fitting right...i just put in and still have a tekin redline gen1 17.5 in my scx10 just got to run the bolt backwards!

From reading his last post, it sounds like the back of the gear dust cover on the transmission was causing some fitment/clearance issues. I didn't have that problem, but the cover is very close to the motor. If the motor plate and/or cover are machined and molded a little off I can see it being a problem.

[HDMM]

Glad to hear you got it figured out.

As the other post above says, trim y link if needed, use a shorter screw and your good to go. I've run all kinds of motor / esc combos in my rigs with no major issues.

[JohnRobHolmes]

I've never had an issue that I remember (probably flipped that nut without a second thought), but looking at the RTR scx10 on the shelf here I see it is a really tight squeeze for straight can brushless motors. The Puller Pro 540S fits fine, but the 540 would certainly hit that nut without the suggested changes. The SCX10 platform was designed before brushless was good enough to run in a crawler, so those few millimeters matter!