Brushed motors overheating...

[Canadiankrawler]

Whats the most common problem here? Drive line bind? Seized bearings somewhere? I already tried another motor with the same results... Thanks!

[Brisco]

Originally Posted by Canadiankrawler

Whats the most common problem here? Drive line bind? Seized bearings somewhere? I already tried another motor with the same results... Thanks!

I can't help too much but more info would be great. Need information like what batteries you are using 2s-3s lipos? Gearing? Motor turn?

I think that will help more informed people address your issue. That is if any of this has changed recently. If not it would stand to reason a bind of some sort is the problem.

[Canadiankrawler]

Originally Posted by Brisco

I can't help too much but more info would be great. Need information like what batteries you are using 2s-3s lipos? Gearing? Motor turn?

I think that will help more informed people address your issue. That is if any of this has changed recently. If not it would stand to reason a bind of some sort is the problem.

I have been running a 3s lipo, but I swapped a 2s and even a NiMh battery back in to make sure that wasn't the issue. The gearing in my diffs is all stock. The spur and pinion is 87/15 on an Axial 27T motor. The only recent changes that I made I switched back, so that I knew those weren't the issue.

[TacoCrawler]

Some folk don't take into account the tire height
and how that effects the gear ratio.

Tire diameter ?

a 27T geared too tall overheats rather easily.

Did you run it with a smaller pinion to see if it runs cooler ?

I swapped to a 35T (on 3s)
and have 5.80" tires on mine.
Think I run 87/16 - 14 depending on how much tire spin I wish to have.

And my HH's TM 35t gets just warm to the touch

Maybe it has something to do with the quality of your motor ?
What motor ?

What ESC ?

Does it switch from LiPo to nimh or is it an auto function ?
Same question for battery voltage changes ?
Do you make any adjustments to the ESC when making those changes ?

Generally when you volt up... you'll need gear down lower.

Are you trying to net top end speed or torque for slow speed crawling ?

Did you remove the pinion gear and check the drive train manually for rolling resistance ?
Possible to have a corroded bearing that's creating resistance.

How are you checking motor temps ?

[Col_Sanders]

Take the motor off (or simply loosen it and move it far enough away from the spur gear so that the pinion doesn't touch it) and roll the truck to make sure there is no drag or binding. If there was binding or drag, remove the transmission and spin each diff and the transmission independently to find where it is coming from. If there was no binding, make sure you are not setting your pinion mesh too tight.

87/15 should be ok gearing wise unless your truck is really heavy, but if you didn't have binding or your gear mesh wasn't too tight, you may need to go down to a lower count pinion gear.

[Canadiankrawler]

Originally Posted by TacoCrawler

Some folk don't take into account the tire height
and how that effects the gear ratio.

Tire diameter ?

a 27T geared too tall overheats rather easily.

Did you run it with a smaller pinion to see if it runs cooler ?

I swapped to a 35T (on 3s)
and have 5.80" tires on mine.
Think I run 87/16 - 14 depending on how much tire spin I wish to have.

And my HH's TM 35t gets just warm to the touch

Maybe it has something to do with the quality of your motor ?
What motor ?

What ESC ?

Does it switch from LiPo to nimh or is it an auto function ?
Same question for battery voltage changes ?
Do you make any adjustments to the ESC when making those changes ?

Generally when you volt up... you'll need gear down lower.

Are you trying to net top end speed or torque for slow speed crawling ?

Did you remove the pinion gear and check the drive train manually for rolling resistance ?
Possible to have a corroded bearing that's creating resistance.

How are you checking motor temps ?

Unfortunately I've been too busy with work to really dig into this at the moment, but thanks for all the info! Once I get a chance to get it back on my bench I'll go through your list and see whats up with it.

[Canadiankrawler]

Originally Posted by Col_Sanders

Take the motor off (or simply loosen it and move it far enough away from the spur gear so that the pinion doesn't touch it) and roll the truck to make sure there is no drag or binding. If there was binding or drag, remove the transmission and spin each diff and the transmission independently to find where it is coming from. If there was no binding, make sure you are not setting your pinion mesh too tight.

87/15 should be ok gearing wise unless your truck is really heavy, but if you didn't have binding or your gear mesh wasn't too tight, you may need to go down to a lower count pinion gear.

Super busy with work, but this will be the first thing I check once I get it back on my work bench.

[JatoTheRipper]

Binding or gearing assuming the motor isn't shot.

[WHITE-TRASH]

87/15 on a 27 turn? Uhh yea, it's a gearing issue.

[big_poppa49]

I want to chime in here also. My son has a scx10 wrangler g6 rtr that has 32p gears. It is stock geared 56/13. I recently dropped in a HH 13t crawlmaster 540, ran the stock gearing and after about 30 min the motor was toast, very hot!! Now, from what I understood, that motor is a 5 pole armature, which I though would be equivalent to a stock axial 27t 3 pole motor, that's why I left the gearing the same. I can't get a clear answer from Holmes, but what is a suitable gearing for the 56T spur? Maybe a 10T pinion?