Lots of transmission/spur play!?

[JohnRobHolmes]

Originally Posted by SCREAMER

Just to be clear. Love the new kit, hate the new trans. It was a total waste of R&D dollars for something that gives no real performance or scale benefit. Axial could've done something better with my money like an interior or beadlocks or something. We know the AX10 trans is better and we know it's cheaper because it's in the RTR.

I disagree. The new transmission mounts the motor more balanced and allows for a fantastic forward bias if flipped. There isn't any other layout that can allow for such a low and forward motor with chassis mounted servo. Compare to a toyzuki mount, sidehilling is vastly superior with the new axial tranny.

I had the same play in my transmission, and then took it apart and put it back together with better attention to detail. What do you know, it was fixed when I spent a little more time following the instructions The long plastic spacers are pretty important.

[1967Typhoon]

Originally Posted by SCREAMER

Just to be clear. Love the new kit, hate the new trans. It was a total waste of R&D dollars for something that gives no real performance or scale benefit. Axial could've done something better with my money like an interior or beadlocks or something. We know the AX10 trans is better and we know it's cheaper because it's in the RTR.

I think the 2-speed aspect of it will be really cool. Especially considering how low the new axles are geared. A 2-speed will make it more fun for the mud or just messing around. While Axial do their best to make these appeal primarily to the crawling/scaling crowd, you have to understand that many people find the SCX10 too slow and get bored with them. (not me!)

What they should have done though is made a single speed trans housing come with the kit, and then make the upcoming 2-speed completion kit come with a larger 2 speed housing. It is a massive transmission for sure. I had to modify my proline FAUX INTERIOR because it was getting hung up on the top of the slipper cover area. Good luck going full interior with that giant hunk! Not happening! But again, if that is your goal you can slap the old trans in it.

[NitroDarwin]

The plastic spacer is the to keep the gear on the pin but the play in the top shaft is the shaft sliding out till the pin hit the bearing. Wondering if you could drill small hole in the spacer to match up with the unused hole in shaft to take up the play

[SCREAMER]

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

I disagree. The new transmission mounts the motor more balanced and allows for a fantastic forward bias if flipped. There isn't any other layout that can allow for such a low and forward motor with chassis mounted servo.

If flipped, being the key phrase but still puts the majority of the weight in the trans and the motor much higher for higher overall COG. The problem with "if flipped" is Axial never wanted or made provisions for us to do so. So much so in fact that you have to buy parts that Bowhouse invented after release, lose the waterproof box or space out the side floorboards, cut or replace the battery tray and lose capacity. Too many concessions need to be made to flip the trans for it to be a good design. You wouldn't specifically go out and buy a Yeti so you could do the Slash conversion. Yes it's possible but the Yeti has a bad front end design. That's my point here. Yes the SCX10 II trans is good once you fix all the design flaws and relocate it and change everything else around to accommodate or........just install an AX10 trans that is smaller, lighter, simpler, lower COG, and can be flipped every which way with zero other concessions, or additional aftermarket support required.

2 speed? Again, 2 points to make here are 1. 2 speed is pointless in a scaler IMHO. Go brushless if you want a bunch of wheel speed or buy the right motor for your application. Why would I need this trans, another servo, and the 2 speed kit that wasn't included so I can choose between going 3mph or 5mph. Is it really worth it? 2 speed is great for showing everyone in the staging area that you have 2 speed then running the rest of the day in second gear because you know it really is pointless. Secondly, there are other 2 speed transmissions on the market that are half the size and strong enough to handle a 15 pound truck on 6s.

[1967Typhoon]

So you complain about having to go aftermarket to flip the trans, and then follow that up with "if you want 2 speed go aftermarket?"

I think you got a bit of axial angst in ya, bro. ;)

[SCREAMER]

You're confused. First, I'm not complaining at all about having to go aftermarket to flip the trans. I said it was pointless to do so since the 1 pro doesn't out weigh the many cons. Second, The other 2 speed transmission I was referring to is in an RTR vehicle that is better designed, stronger, smaller, and actually come as a 2 speed, not 2 speed ready whenever Axial gets around to it.

[Benbot]

I feel guilty that I'm just now getting around to assembling this kit, but I'm not having this same problem with my transmission. Those who got replacement parts from Axial, did that fix the problem? If so, what was changed? What parts should I ask them for?

[TSK]

Just thinking out loud here...

If the top shaft play is just the shaft sliding back and forth until the gear pin bottoms out to the ball bearing, couldn't you just make some tiny plastic wedges (say trim a tab off a parts tree) and just jam it in the gear slot to take up the slack between the pin and bearing?

[Benbot]

This isn't my video, but here's the exact problem I'm having with the transmission:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mr-d6Ru5JFE

Which I don't understand, because the top shaft seems to be perfectly straight. It's not supposed to do that, is it?

[bilinvic]

Originally Posted by Benbot

This isn't my video, but here's the exact problem I'm having with the transmission:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mr-d6Ru5JFE

Which I don't understand, because the top shaft seems to be perfectly straight. It's not supposed to do that, is it?

Go back and read post #14.

[Benbot]

Thanks, I read your post and it was very helpful! However, I thought Axial might have a better official solution that doesn't require me to go out and track down a washer with those exact dimensions. Where did you get your washer?

[arnesto]

No shimming will fix this, the hole for the cross pin is drilled in the wrong spot.
The bearing, gear and spacer fix the case perfectly, the play is the movement of the shaft and pin in the gear crosspinn pocket

[bilinvic]

Originally Posted by Benbot

Thanks, I read your post and it was very helpful! However, I thought Axial might have a better official solution that doesn't require me to go out and track down a washer with those exact dimensions. Where did you get your washer?

Just happen to have one in my hardware stash...sorry I can't be of more help.

Originally Posted by arnesto

No shimming will fix this, the hole for the cross pin is drilled in the wrong spot.
The bearing, gear and spacer fix the case perfectly, the play is the movement of the shaft and pin in the gear crosspinn pocket

There's two issues at hand, the spur wobble and the in/out slop of the spur shaft.

[grizzlyone]

The black axial hub washers work well for this purpose.

[SPRDave]

Originally Posted by Benbot

This isn't my video, but here's the exact problem I'm having with the transmission:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mr-d6Ru5JFE

Which I don't understand, because the top shaft seems to be perfectly straight. It's not supposed to do that, is it?

That's my video. I have been in contact with Axial and they are sending me parts to solve this issue. A new spur gear and spring.

This was my first kit and RC. glad I went with Axial on this. customer service has been outstanding.

anyway I agree that it could be that center bushing. I am going to try the washers as well.

[TSK]

Originally Posted by arnesto

No shimming will fix this, the hole for the cross pin is drilled in the wrong spot.
The bearing, gear and spacer fix the case perfectly, the play is the movement of the shaft and pin in the gear crosspinn pocket

That is what I am talking about. Wedge a spacer into the gear pin slot between the pin and the bearing.

[Benbot]

Originally Posted by SPRDave

That's my video. I have been in contact with Axial and they are sending me parts to solve this issue. A new spur gear and spring.

This was my first kit and RC. glad I went with Axial on this. customer service has been outstanding.

anyway I agree that it could be that center bushing. I am going to try the washers as well.

A new spur gear and spring? I'm trying to figure out what good that will do. The spur gear is just fine.

[svt923]

Taking away the in and out play is quite easy, it just requires shimming in front of the first bearing.

I took the spare plastic transmission spacer on the parts tree, cut a 5-6 mm spacer (I didn't get an exact measurement while I was building), installed it on the topshaft in front of the bearing, then assembled the trans per the instructions. Boom, no more topshaft play using only parts from the box.

[NitroDarwin]

My fix for the in/out slop, a nail cut down to about 8mm and drilled hole 8mm from end of spacer. Wrapped with tape to keep it in after pic. Less than .5mm play after

[svt923]

Originally Posted by svt923

I took the spare plastic transmission spacer on the parts tree, cut a 5-6 mm spacer (I didn't get an exact measurement while I was building), installed it on the topshaft in front of the bearing, then assembled the trans per the instructions.

My spacer didn't remove slop as effective as I initially thought. The spacer was a tight fit on the shaft so it took a little more force to get the movement.

This, however, took out all the slop.