SCX10.2 Build/Performance help

[wilgarn]

Hi, first post here but I’ve been lurking and reading awhile! So a few weeks ago I caught a SCX10 II builder kit and the Capra for 15% off and snatched up one each. Finally got them both to 90+ percent completed. Anyway, I just want to know what I can do to the SCX10 II to make its performance more competitive with the Capra. It has a few aluminum parts, bumper mount servo relocation and GTS shocks with .30 springs, otherwise completely stock.

[Jboucher]

Buy portal axles ?


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[LincolnofDeath]

Add an OD? Not a Capra owner but I can speak a bit to the difference between an Element w/ 12% OD and a non-OD SCX10ii——Maybe play with that option and the myriad tire and wheel options to explore. I’m just now building a Capra and don’t imagine there’s any way to beat the approach/departure angle and clearance with portals inherent to the Capra’s design. I WILL be watching for any insight into your post here. The two I’m describing are evolving still, they are both delightful to drive and each have their own peculiar qualities. Cheers.

[dirtman71]

+1 on the OD. Move the rear shock mounts forward. Add weight down low. Helps keep wheels planted and increase traction. Don’t know what you have for tires but tires and foam can make or break you.

That’s for starters

[LincolnofDeath]

@ Hobbyjumper—- That’s such a good time there in your video. I concur with your ideas on making them go “the opposite” direction with respect to performance. Your group has some super fun scale stuff going on there. Portals, OD, wheels and weight... or scale masterpiece?

Wilgarn, you can have the best of both worlds, in some ways with your SCX10, because the Capra can donate it’s performance parts when you want, and to experiment. My SCX10 started as a Mog and it messed with my brain—- too pretty for me to trash right away. Took that body off and made a basher to take advantage of the short wheelbase, accentuate clearance in the front and around the wheels...but still real basic. What’s cool about you doing the Capra is that some of the performance oriented stuff like wheel/tire setup, light batteries and gearing and motor can all be moved pretty quickly to your performance spec SCX10, and still be available for going back to scale fun on a whim.
Being more willing to yardsale my basher bodies is helping me loads to improve driving skills. Does that make sense? I’ll put two pics here of the basher bodies on 11.4 wheelbase. The green one gets way better side to side wheel bite for lifting over technical sections, and I didn’t know I was missing that until the wheels got opened in their wells, something a Capra never has to deal with. The red one has great front and side clearance where the stock setup would constantly hang up on bumpers and no side skid. Just some ramblings. I’ll take these pics down in a day or two so they don’t dilute your thread : )

Got my Capra axles put together last night. We’re probably interested to see a pic of your SCX10 if you have it that far...are you down to just making body and wheelbase decisions?

[wilgarn]

I’m new to forums so I’ll have to respond in my own way until I learn the ropes... Thanks for all the input guys! Will try to figure out how and then post pics after this message.

Lincolnofdeath: I don’t think I’ll ever get it to “match” the Capra in performance, however I would like it to keep up a little better if at all possible. I guess the flex is the biggest downfall I’ve noticed in my EXTREMELY short experiences lol! I hadn’t really thought about adapting Capra parts to the SCX but the thought of that is definitely getting my mental wheels turning.

Dirtman71: I have a set of Class 1 Hyrax for it which I bought not knowing they were smaller than regular 1.9s so I replaced them with Duratrax Showdowns I got super cheap. Also have Crawler Innovations Deuces Wild dual stage foams. I see what you mean about the different bodies. The body I have now surely will give me issues in front and rear. Maybe I’ll get a more performance oriented body and just save this one for easy trail walks or the shelf.

Hobbyjumper: Man, there are some awesome rigs in that vid, including yours. Wish there were groups/events like that in my area. The closest hobby store to me is around 70 miles though :( I’m definitely interested in the scale side of things, although I do want increase performance as well. If possible haha

All I have left to do on the Capra is paint and install the interior, and replace a few screws with worn heads

On the SCX10ii I have MANY screws to replace with worn/stripped and almost stripped heads, order front bumper for the body because I accidentally cut mine off too short, waiting on rear Samix bumper mount/bracket thing to be delivered. After my screws come in I’m gonna move the rear shock hoops forward and swap sides, get softer front springs, shave down or drill shock pistons, find longer front body mounts so tires don’t scrub when flexing...

[wilgarn]

https://www.dropbox.com/s/qc7kch9470...%20PM.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/syjsj5pp39...%20PM.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/n8qtd3eu0d...%20PM.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/2e5c3rpdh1...%20PM.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/a0iuekf45g...%20PM.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fweov1avrf...%20PM.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/lgx2pgvm06...%20PM.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/7vlvgh4md7...%20PM.jpg?dl=0

[dirtman71]

If you want more articulation flip you rear shock mounts to the opposite side and mount them in the most forward holes. Then mount your shocks in the most forward holes. This will lay the shocks down a bit and increase your travel and soften the rear suspension

Tires on both rigs look a bit firm. I don’t know what terrain you run in but if you have rocks the more you can get the tire to conform the better as long as you can still keep a sidewall from rolling over so you can turn. Having a few small holes to vent the tires will let them conform better.

I double wrap my front tires with automobile wheel weights. And single wrap the rear. Most don’t like to put weight in the tires because it’s rotating mass and harder on motor and drivetrain. I have never had any problems. They also make all sorts of brass chubs and knuckles and external wheel weights. There seems to be a fine line between balance and traction. Try to keep it a bit nose heavy. Weight helps traction. Too much weight can hurt traction

One last thing is to check the nut behind the wheel. That will get you into more problems if your not careful. Drive smart and pick good lines

[lonleycreeper]

That is a great looking Chevy body. But it is also probably one of the biggest limiting factors. The large size of the body does not allow the most important part of the truck to come into contact with the rocks.

Flex is fun on a work bench, but I find frequently, less articulation is better for performance, esp if you can lower the chassis at the same time! The reason being is often your tire will be carried over a hole or drop, and not have to climb back out. The truck also tends to be more consistent over terrain. For me the magic combo is 70mm rear and 90mm front on a 12.3" wheelbase. I prefer firmer springs out back, and softer up front. I also like my rig near the bump stops when sitting stationary. A simple swap for the scx10 was to move the "front" shocks to the rear, swap the rear shock towers left to right turning them around and move them forward two holes in the frame. Both my Honcho and Rbk are like this.

OD in the front axle is definitely an advantage.

Small light batteries also help.

4.5 lbs seems to be the magic number in overall weight with a 60/40 weight bias.

The last but by far not the least is the Nut behind the wheel.
Each rig is going to drive differently. Knowing the lines your rig can take, and how its gong to react in various situations can close up the performance gap the most.