Lifting the 10.3

[GoliathGladiator]

So my friend recently got me into scale crawling and I decided to purchase the scx10.3 RTR gladiator and the first thing I did was put a set of 2.2 SSD beadlocks on a set of RC4wd mudslinger 2 XL 2.2 (a 57” tire if it were 1:1 scale).

Needless to say, There was a lot of scrubbing I adjusted the shocks to the max preload and lowest mount point. Still too much scrubbing, after installing the treal shock mount brackets and putting the shocks on the lowest mount point, it was barely acceptable. Minimal scrubbing, only when completely flexed out.

At this point, the body was still sitting properly in relation to the chassis/frame and there wasn’t any significant alignment issues. But I wanted to go higher. I ordered a set of off brand/China brand 125mm shocks and here’s where the problems start.

After installing the 125mm shocks, the front axle set so far off from the rear axle that it wasn’t drivable (image you take the front axle, and shift the whole assembly to the left 1.5”). This was with the shocks at the lowest preload and at the highest possible mount point up top (so the lowest the vehicle could be with those shocks)

Playing around with it, I realized that it was the steering servo link and pan hard bar that were causing the front axle to “pull or push” the axle off sideways from the frame. So if I extend the pan hard bar and servo link, then it will fix the alignment problem?? Seems logical… I spent a whole day at the local hobby store rummaging through traxis parts bins for links that would work, and for the life of me, I could not find two that would clear and be the proper length.

My solution was to suck it up and buy a tad bit shorter and better quality shocks, I went with pro line pro scale crawler 105-110mm. And backed the eyelet mounts on the pan hard and servo link out about halfway on both ends. Doing this made them ALMOST long enough to not cause the issues stated above. But now when I turn the wheel it causes the plastic pan hard link ends to bend badly every time there is side force on the chassis, so it works properly on flat level ground… the second there is any suspension articulation, the tires don’t even turn, it just bends the end links and they eventually break.

Does anyone have a solution to this or give me any advice on how to go about finding the right length pan hard bars/servo links?

Has anyone lifted an scx10.3 to an absurd level like this before?


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[HumboldtEF]

Well the simplest solution is to just not use those huge tires or lift the truck but I can tell your determined to make them work. 4.75" is about the max you can get away with on a scale rig without tons of rubbing. Personally I would never put a huge 2.2 on a scale rig like this partly because of the rubbing and primarily because of the limited steering and raised center of gravity.

You may have better luck with a slight body lift combined with a slightly longer shock like 100mm. This will require you also lift the sliders and bumpers to match the body which is not likely to be easy. You are on the right track hunting down new links for the panhard and drag link. You can try different length links and different length rod ends to fine tune the overall length of those links.

As for the steering an axle mounted servo/4 link would be ideal as it would eliminate the panhard and drag link issues but I dont see any for the AR45 axles. I know the Capra axle shares some similar parts with the AR45's so maybe the Capra servo mount could be used though I think its unlikely to have the mount points required.

You could also look at what traxxas did with the TRX4 lift kit. They include: long-arm links, longer aluminum shocks, taller springs, extended driveshafts, and a revised front servo mount to maintain proper steering geometry.
https://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/tra8140x.htm

[OSRC]

If you are looking to lift up that far, I highly recommend switching to a 4 link up front with a servo mounted axle. Panhard setups are great for scale, not so much for a lot of travel.

All you would need is another upper link for the front axle, a servo mount, and a drag link for the servo.

[GoliathGladiator]

Originally Posted by HumboldtEF

Well the simplest solution is to just not use those huge tires or lift the truck but I can tell your determined to make them work. 4.75" is about the max you can get away with on a scale rig without tons of rubbing. Personally I would never put a huge 2.2 on a scale rig like this partly because of the rubbing and primarily because of the limited steering and raised center of gravity.

You may have better luck with a slight body lift combined with a slightly longer shock like 100mm. This will require you also lift the sliders and bumpers to match the body which is not likely to be easy. You are on the right track hunting down new links for the panhard and drag link. You can try different length links and different length rod ends to fine tune the overall length of those links.

As for the steering an axle mounted servo/4 link would be ideal as it would eliminate the panhard and drag link issues but I dont see any for the AR45 axles. I know the Capra axle shares some similar parts with the AR45's so maybe the Capra servo mount could be used though I think its unlikely to have the mount points required.

You could also look at what traxxas did with the TRX4 lift kit. They include: long-arm links, longer aluminum shocks, taller springs, extended driveshafts, and a revised front servo mount to maintain proper steering geometry.
https://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/tra8140x.htm

Could I just swap the front axle from the capara, into the 10.3? And where would you suggest I look for longer links and rod ends? For some reason I have a feeling that the panhard bar that comes in the solid axle conversation kit for the 10.3 would fit perfectly, but I’m not going to spend $150 for one link.


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[TheLetterJ]

Without picking apart all the other flaws in your setup...

I'd start by putting longer rod ends on your existing draglink and panhard bar. Look at Traxxas 5525 or RPM 80512. They're something like 9mm longer (each) and you can cut them to length. They're not indestructable, but it'd be an easy way to experiment with finding the length you're happy with.

[HumboldtEF]

Capra axles are wider so you'll probably want the rear axle too. not sure how it would look with that body.

[tonered]

Geez. These things are really scale. Same pain in the butt to lift as real trucks. Hahaha!

[twade984]

IMO you’re going to spend way more time and money than it’s worth trying to run such a large tire.

If you’re willing to consider capra axles for the 10.3, why not just get a capra to put those tires on? They might actually fit…


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[DRED805]

Grab a stick of all-thread from Home Depot... I used it to mock up steering/panhard links with stock rod ends when I was messing with longer shocks and servo relocation on my 10.2.

I assume 10.3 rod ends will work the same.

[celticsun33]

Your best bet, and easiest solution, is to ditch the tires. The 1.9s with some proline Hyrax will give you plenty of clearance for most crawling. When you start lifting that thing you'll spend more time flipping it over than driving because you've raised your center of gravity. Look at most comp truck and you'll see they're almost dragging their bellies. I guess it comes down to whether you want fashion or function. Either way it's your rig so have at it man. All that matters is you having fun.
I put new hyrax on my 10 III and some portal brass and she climbs like a beast. You want to keep that COG low.
I had 2.2s on my Capra but put a slightly shorter shock on it as well as lengthening the links a little. Since the Capra is open with no body I don't have to worry about rubbing.
Good luck on your quest though. Keep us updated.

[Gladihater]

I have a gladiator on 2.2 tractor treads was 120 mm desert lizard shocks and a full homemade lift kit I made all the links by hand with a bender and a small metric tap and die set takes a lot of measuring in Geometry but it's totally doable minds of Beast oh, it's a total monster trying to find out how to post pictures I've been on here