O.B.'s Wraith

[Oz Bruiser]

I wanted one of these since i first seen the original release videos. at th time i didnt have the funds and it wasnt until recently i had the spare coin through selling some gear to grab one. Fortunatly for me also they were on special and was able to source it and a number of upgrades via OneTen Crawlers. Thanks Camo and Stew. As it stands as i have my competition Crawlers its not likely to be another dedicated crawler, more likely a dule purpose crawler and basher/rock racer. Something for a bit of fun and i can let Jack loose with and not be as concerned if it was on eof my comp rigs.

As i dont have a direct direction for this and as i have many components from my other crawlers i ordered the kit version. It came with teh better Axial CVDs than the RTR, the Softer R35 Rip Saws and alloy lower links.

I was also very lucky to win one of the contests that apears on RCc from time to time and won a set Of Blue Monkey Knuckle weight's. When they were ready to ship i ordered some Blue Monkey Ti Upper and Lower links and Ti steering links to in the same postage and Matt from BM did me a good deal on prices and postage. He ie very easy to deal with and very helpfull at working out what best suited my future needs as at the time i won these i did not have a Wraith. I chose the Ti as is light weight and less bulky than other materilas used for link. It slides offer the rocks well and has good strength for bashing at speed in the rocks.

The other parts are to be as follows;
BWD OS Mod Locks
CI Duel Stage foams
HH water proof BRXL
HH Trailmaster Pro
Hitec HS-7954SH
Blue Monkey Ti upper and lower Links and Steering links
Blue Monkey Knuckle weights
CC Bec - when i add 3s bats
VP Stage 1 upgrades,
-VP C's
-VP Knuckles
-VP Rear lockouts
VP Lockers front and rear.
Eventually Robson Racing internal gear box gears
When available new 2.2 Pit Bulls

In the new year ill be adding some bits and pieces from Tomi at NCD. Im still waiting on my motor to arive from HH so no go yet either. As its still just a build and is not complete there are no pics to speak off, but as it progresses ill add some in.

Ben

[TheScaleAddict]

Which HH did you settle on? Welcome to wraith.

[Oz Bruiser]

Originally Posted by cephas

Which HH did you settle on?

This motor if that's what you mean by your question.


Holmes Hobbies / Holmes Bikes :: Motors :: Brushed :: TrailMaster Pro 540

[TheScaleAddict]

Originally Posted by Oz Bruiser

This motor if that's what you mean by your question.


Holmes Hobbies / Holmes Bikes :: Motors :: Brushed :: TrailMaster Pro 540

Nice. I just put the same motor in mine.

[Oz Bruiser]

As I don't have mine Cephas how is it?

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[TheScaleAddict]

Not sure yet. She's still in pieces. I'm waiting on a couple of custom links from VP for my suicide switch steering with the DinkyRC Dinky Servo Mount, and I am in the middle of relocating electronics and batteries and whatnot. It looks pretty though... LOL

[Oz Bruiser]

A few update pics below. Isnt quite a runner yet as i have had other projects on. i have since thse pics were taken attempted to cut down an old body i hardly used that was similar to the wraith dimensions. The roof and bonet panels were olnly just not wide enough fot the wraith so i have gon with the factoy panels and cut the side panels to suit. Not happy with the rear end but now i know it works i may get another body if i can find one. The Blue Monkey Links and steering rods are very nice gear. I havent added knuckle weights yet and as the wraith suspension stock can be firm i have used Axial Black XR10 springs. Once s a runner if they dont suit i have Losi Golds to use.


Annyway here are progress pics upto body being fitted.

[Oz Bruiser]

Took my wraith out for its maiden run yesterday with stocker drive shafts With no internal mods to the male half of the drive shaft on 3s, HH Brxl and HH Trail Master. Got a liquorice rear shaft in under 5 mins. Took out today with a junfac rear shaft and went much better. Though found I need to wind down the drag brake as sudden stops result in unwanted flips lol. Anyway a couple pics bodied up below.

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[Oz Bruiser]

Something im curious if anyone reading can tell me. can you over steer the stock axial CVD's? Under speed and cornering i am experiancig clicking but is hard to determine if is happening from the steering or elsewhere?

[Joshs4x4toyz]

Originally Posted by Oz Bruiser

Something im curious if anyone reading can tell me. can you over steer the stock axial CVD's? Under speed and cornering i am experiancig clicking but is hard to determine if is happening from the steering or elsewhere?

Honestly I don't think so. I would say diff. Sweet looking rig btw! Those wheels are plain awesome!

[Oz Bruiser]

Originally Posted by Joshs4x4toyz

Honestly I don't think so. I would say diff. Sweet looking rig btw! Those wheels are plain awesome!

Thanks for the input. I'm pretty sure is the cvds. At full lock the they don't rotate smoothly. Its like they are turned past their useable limit. I have alot of steering and when the speed increases its worse. I may have to limit the throw on the servo or look at different cvds.

Last night I was pushing it hard on the carpet in the garage checking for clicking in the driveline and getting some nice wheel stands until the Junfac drive shaft spat it's yoke out. Have to order some MIP's.

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[evan03]

move the steering arm closer to servo to limit steering and also increase steering strenght

[Oz Bruiser]

Originally Posted by boyomarga

Something im curious if anyone reading can tell me.

Cant see your images....

[Oz Bruiser]

I havent updated this in a while as i kept breaking bits. I put it down to 3s and a happy trigger finger. I broke rear plastic driveshaft then put in a Junfac one and destroyed that when the drive line jamed up unexpectadly pulling wheel stands in the garage on the crapet. I then did the insert mod to the plastic stock shafts and then stuffed another gear st in the front diff. However i still could not locate the clicking noise i had from the CVs. After destroring another set set of front and rear diff gears due to the grub screw working loose out of the VP lockers.





Yes they had lock tite on them. I couldnt understand how apart from the nasty clicking sound at full lock and occassionly under hard acceleration. The noise sounded very much like i had stripped gears in the gear box. So without actually pulling down i just ordred the replacment Robson Racing harned gears etc for the gearbox. Upon pulling the gear box down i found nothing obviously wrong. As i had the gears i installed them annyway and greased up the gears ready for hopefully no noise upon next run.

I also had my Pit Bulls arive a few weeks earlier and as it wasnt running i had not installed them but i took this oppurtunity to mount them on older style 6" CI Dul Stage foams on DNA Assasin Wheels.

At fisrt it seemed good only to be followed by the noise and this time it only occoured on full lock and not under accelleration. It wasnt until i tried to climb a ledge to find i had lossed rear dive again to snap a wild boar in a different place again. I m not sure if it was a diff jam that caused it or the increased traction from the Pit Bulls




I though if i cant find a spare plastic half i would have to order new MIP Shafts.

I ran i in front wheel drive just playing around unil the clicking jammed up the front diff again on full lock.

As i pulled the front diff down again i tuned the output from the front diff by hand and found the diff turned freely except for one point. I pulled the diff cover to inspect the gears and found them all intact and is servicable condition this time which stumped me. I re installed them and again re checked by hand pulling the out drive from the diff as i turned it only to hear it click momentarily and then it trned in my fingers and the axel did not.

I built this as a kit as per instructions and have had issues from day one and always on full lock. i have had nastly clicking and occasionly on full acceleration. What i found was the issue is there was not a close enough mesh between the bevel gears in the diff froont and rear and the Backlash combined with more steering then the axial cvds could handle the inner gear was actually coming away from the output gear and both ends required a shim under the inner bearing in the inside of the diff housing to put more pressure on the inner diff gears. Once i did this clicking on full lock disapered completly.


The reason it was worse on full lock as i have more steering than the cvds could handle and as the axel rotated it would wobble a bit this combinned with the mesh coming apart and the backlash ment it was only a matter of time befor ethe gears stripped out and the constant meshing and unmeshing i think is what worked the grub screws loose and in the rear the backlash and the lack of a good gear meshing also contributed.

Since adding the washer(Shim) i have had no more issues and i can get on with enjoying this rig.

Its awsome that its working now but as this was built from stock internal gear components and bearing's in both axels however im pretty dissapointed in Axials poor tolerances in the manurfacture of the parts and destroying a few sets of gears and giving me the head aches its given me.

Ive posted this up in the hope that if anyone else has these issues it may help them find the issue. Thanks to Evan03 and Joshs4x4toyz for your suggestions and Cephas for help via pm