U4RC 2.2 Comp Racer "Sucker Punch"

[Dirt51]

You guys know the story, was into RCs years ago, and came back to it recently...
Reason for even looking is I have a rather well built 1:1 TJ that I crawl all over Johnson Valley (King of the Hammers trails) and sometimes there's long delays on a trail, I thought it would be fun to have an RC to play around with when such delays happened... Enter my first crawler, the Axial SCX G6.



A friend talked me into racing it at the U4RC event after meeting some very cool cats on a trail run (The Loop) and although I was severely out classed, I pulled off a 3rd place win in the main event. (1.9 trail) Soslow, I hardly crashed... LOL



I got the race itch now and bought a Wraith kit... Man, these things are NOT easy to put together! I'm going to call this car "Sucker Punch"



I bought a bunch of parts, incl a PLS radio.



Gmade shocks (Also a pain in the dick!)



I hinged the hood after painting it my signature colors (Matches my 2 1:1 jeeps)



Next is the fastback mod and a pair of Wild Willys drivers.

I dont have my motor or ESC yet, I'm looking at the Tekin RX8 and the ROC 412 to really make this thing move.

I've also been drooling on the DmG Stiffy kit and trailing arms... we'll see how that goes once this rig starts racing.

I don't have a ton of knowledge of the RC world, so I may have some dumb questions coming up. Any advice you guys could offer up would be much appreciated!



.

[Rockpiledriver]

I can't tell from the picture. Which gear sets are those?

[btango05]

Sweet looking truck! I'm surprised you didn't get the King piggy backs to match your TJ. I still need to upgrade my shocks...let us know how you like that Futaba radio...I've been contemplating getting a better radio than the Axial one.

[Dirt51]

Originally Posted by Rockpiledriver

I can't tell from the picture. Which gear sets are those?

Stock gearing, just HD sets.

Do the guys out racing under/over drive their Wraiths?

[Dirt51]

Originally Posted by btango05

Sweet looking truck! I'm surprised you didn't get the King piggy backs to match your TJ. I still need to upgrade my shocks...let us know how you like that Futaba radio...I've been contemplating getting a better radio than the Axial one.

I thought about the Kings, but I'm thinking the Gmades are a better shock at a lesser cost... This rig draws a fine line between function and fashion, and the Gmade shocks still look cool IMHO.

[Rockpiledriver]

Originally Posted by Dirt51

Stock gearing, just HD sets.

Do the guys out racing under/over drive their Wraiths?

We have found that running shimmed under drive gear sets front and rear provide the best mesh and the and the most durability. Mine have 1 1/2 U4RC series, 2 G6 events, plus a ton of bashing, and I have yet to open the axle back up to even check inside. They still feel like they did when I first assembled them. Others are having similar experiences with this combo.

[Dirt51]

Originally Posted by Rockpiledriver

We have found that running shimmed under drive gear sets front and rear provide the best mesh and the and the most durability. Mine have 1 1/2 U4RC series, 2 G6 events, plus a ton of bashing, and I have yet to open the axle back up to even check inside. They still feel like they did when I first assembled them. Others are having similar experiences with this combo.

So you underdrive both axles... This means my Wraith will be faster than yours?

Kinda wishing I'd started this thread before spending all this money, Ahh well. We'll see how the stock gearing works. Change if need be.

[Rockpiledriver]

Originally Posted by Dirt51

So you underdrive both axles... This means my Wraith will be faster than yours?

Kinda wishing I'd started this thread before spending all this money, Ahh well. We'll see how the stock gearing works. Change if need be.

That is better than over driving an axle in my opinion. Shimming and setting up those gears is even more critical then the UD sets because they offer less mesh.

[btango05]

Originally Posted by Rockpiledriver

We have found that running shimmed under drive gear sets front and rear provide the best mesh and the and the most durability. Mine have 1 1/2 U4RC series, 2 G6 events, plus a ton of bashing, and I have yet to open the axle back up to even check inside. They still feel like they did when I first assembled them. Others are having similar experiences with this combo.

What shims should one use?

[MexicanMarauder]

I will be watching this build with much enthusiasm.

[Rockpiledriver]

Originally Posted by btango05

What shims should one use?

These seem to be the best that I can find now.

Tamiya America Item #53587 | RC 5mm Shim Set - 3 Types

[TheAxialNut]

Yeah, I like to shim the axle pinion too, improved tooth engagement.

As for the electronics, I like your idea, RX8 and ROC412.

You will love it, I wish I could afford to run this set-up on all my rigs. Make sure you spend the money on the transmission parts, at least replace all the gears to metal, the stock bearings and transmission housing should be fine, even under PRO4 or ROC412 power. Mine have held up fine. I have been running 48p spur and pinion too! (knocking on wood).

See you out there and good luck!






.

[Dirt51]

Originally Posted by TheAxialNut

Yeah, I like to shim the axle pinion too, improved tooth engagement.

As for the electronics, I like your idea, RX8 and ROC412.

You will love it, I wish I could afford to run this set-up on all my rigs. Make sure you spend the money on the transmission parts, at least replace all the gears to metal, the stock bearings and transmission housing should be fine, even under PRO4 or ROC412 power. Mine have held up fine. I have been running 48p spur and pinion too! (knocking on wood).

See you out there and good luck!






.

Thanks man, Looks like I'm gonna miss this race, but soon!
I've already upgraded all gears in the trans, and axles...

[Dirt51]

Originally Posted by Rockpiledriver

These seem to be the best that I can find now.

Tamiya America Item #53587 | RC 5mm Shim Set - 3 Types

Hey Jerry, Any idea how far you're moving/shimming your pinion? I'm sure they'll all be a bit different, but are we talking about 1mm or 5mm?

[Dirt51]

Mayhem beadlocks just showed up, along with the CI dual stage foams and Pit Bull rock beasts...

Do you guys run weights in the wheels for racing?

[jerry2575]

Originally Posted by Dirt51

Mayhem beadlocks just showed up, along with the CI dual stage foams and Pit Bull rock beasts...

Do you guys run weights in the wheels for racing?

I do not wheel weights in my U4 rigs.

[tapped-out]

Originally Posted by Dirt51

Hey Jerry, Any idea how far you're moving/shimming your pinion? I'm sure they'll all be a bit different, but are we talking about 1mm or 5mm?

Rockpiledriver is Brian, Brian are you shimming pinion & diff ? Thanks for the part # I ordered shim kit last night from ebay $9.10 shipped from Hong Kong.

[Rockpiledriver]

I start by shimming under the pinion inside the housing to bring the pinion as close to the ring gear as possible. Add a shim and bolt it together. I then check how the gears feel. I repeat this by adding shims until it gets tight. I then take the thinnest shim (or the only shim if it gets tight with just 1) out, and re-assmble. The gear mesh, at this point, should be very close on the inside. I then install the driveshaft. Now I check for any movement of the pinion gear and add shims, if necessary, between the outer bearing and the driveshaft. The goal is to get the pinion SET with good mesh and as little movement of the pinion as possible. I shoot for about .010 -.020 of play when holding the driveshaft then pushing and pulling on the pinion in the housing.

Hope that makes sense.

[tapped-out]

Originally Posted by Rockpiledriver

I start by shimming under the pinion inside the housing to bring the pinion as close to the ring gear as possible. Add a shim and bolt it together. I then check how the gears feel. I repeat this by adding shims until it gets tight. I then take the thinnest shim (or the only shim if it gets tight with just 1) out, and re-assmble. The gear mesh, at this point, should be very close on the inside. I then install the driveshaft. Now I check for any movement of the pinion gear and add shims, if necessary, between the outer bearing and the driveshaft. The goal is to get the pinion SET with good mesh and as little movement of the pinion as possible. I shoot for about .010 -.020 of play when holding the driveshaft then pushing and pulling on the pinion in the housing.

Hope that makes sense.

Yes it does & THANKS.

[Dirt51]

Yup, thanks.