Venom Racing Wraith Skid - Shapeways

[mewalsh100]

Just received my Venom Racing low profile Wraith skid from ShapeWays. The product looks sweet and is definitely lower profile than the OE Skid. However, my Holmes Hobbies Puller Pro 3500kv will not clear the RIGHT REAR link mount.

I really don't want to hack on this skid to clearance and compromise the structural integrity as there is not a lot of material there. I thought about spacing the motor/trans off the skid with some aluminum spacers as well, but it'll need to be just under 1/4" worth of spacing. This presents 2 problems: 1.) It's going to push the motor and trans up in to the interior. 2.) I really don't want the weight of the motor and trans up any higher in the vehicle.

Wondering if any one else here has purchased one of these skids, encountered this problem, and come up with a solution?

[Brake Weight]

That looks similar to the one I got from Thingverse.

Is that motor the Standard or XL? I tried running a 550 can with my Thingverse low profile skid and it wasn’t happening. I ended up going with a regular can 540.


3D printed tummy tuck skid?

[mewalsh100]

It's the standard PP 3500kv can. Totally bummed. Looks like it's just not going to fit without serious mods. Worse, it definitely will not fit the Rock Bouncer project I'm doing either cause I went with the HH PP R 540-L 4100kv. IDK - I'm sure I'll find a use for it at some point. I do have a spare Wraith cage laying around. Another project possibly?

[mikemcE]

I printed it up twice, different materials, the short 540 can will clear, so the PullerPro stubby will be the way to go. I didn’t use this on my build, as the link setup is got REVO ends, they are thinner than stock, I didn’t want to start making or buy more links, the stock skid was there already.


Hang up and Drive

[mewalsh100]

Well, I said F it and decided to clearance the sucker. That part of the deal worked out well and it seems to be plenty strong to handle what I removed.

But, this whole little skid upgrade has become quite the huge pain in the a--.

Once I got the clearance I needed for the motor, I bolted the trans and motor in place and slipped the unit in to the rig. Low and behold, it doesn't clear the underside of the interior without pushing it up a whole bunch in the center and causing the seats to lean out of the roll cage. So, I spaced the interior up off the chassis about 3/16". Everything drops in now, but it still pushes on the underside of the interior a bit, but not noticeably when looking at the interior.

That done, I moved on to getting my upper links bolted up. I didn't like the tolerances so I added some aluminum spacers to take up the slop where they mate up to the skid. That went well and eliminated all slop.

Then, I started mating up the lowers. Running the lower link screw in, I broke the tip of my 1.5mm off in the head. It's fully in the skid, but not enough peaking out where it meets the lower link for me to back it back out. I have no idea how i'm going to get that F'er out of there either. The tool end snapped off in the screw will be way to hard to drill. Dead in the water for now.

[JatoTheRipper]

I don't understand why some 3D print vendors emblazon their parts with a massive logo, usually in the worst area. All those letters are catch points out on the trail.

[mewalsh100]

Agreed. Marketing I suppose.

[durok]

Man, having that tool break that way has caused major suckage.... I feel for ya!

Not really sure what I would try in your situation.

I know this is a bit late, but get MIP tools!

[mewalsh100]

So, I may be saved. I had sent a message to the designer on Shapeways about the skid not fitting a standard size can. He said it was his screw up and that he was surprised Shapeways still had the original file. (I had shapeways print it as well). Anyway, he's going to contact Shapeways and see if they will print me another one based off of the good / working design. Keeping my fingers crossed that this works out. I'll keep y'all in the loop.