XR10 with VIPER chasis - upper links help

[bikeboy]

I'm having a hard time looking for a upper links that will fit the VIPER.
What upper links are the VIPER driver using and which rod ends?
Thanks

[Harley]

There are TONS of Viper builds. Do some searching and you'll find the answers faster than waiting on people to do the work for you.

[eisman]

***Chaotic Crawlers Titanium XR10 links (simple how to)***

This is all I got brotha. Look up Articzap, Tydl, DickyT's old build, jeepkid has awesome ideas too.

This just scratches the surface, I didn't meen to leave anyone out, just list off a handful of Viper builds off the top of my head.

[bikeboy]

Harley with all due respect
I did look and there's info that are confusing. And you're right there's alot of build out there, that I saw. I guess I should state that when I post.
Ok let me be more specific. CrawlHer posted a upper links for the VIPER using the Vanquish Product Wraith Titanium Upper Link Arms
http://www.vanquishproducts.com/wrai...per-links.html
Anyone else try this out?

[eisman]

I hadn't even heard of that one yet... I don't have a Wraith, but I know that they have a 13.5" wheelbase. I can't say if the links would work out or not. One good trick is to use some 8-32 all thread rod and try out some different combos. It's easy to bend and cut, and Revo ends fit perfectly onto it.

[Tydl]

Originally Posted by eisman

One good trick is to use some 8-32 all thread rod and try out some different combos. It's easy to bend and cut, and Revo ends fit perfectly onto it.

This is what I did, and it does work the best.

I can measure mine for you, but it all depends on where you want to clock the axle. I for instance have the gearbox very level, where jeepkid has his clocked to the sky. lol And there isn't a right or wrong, but what works for me, may not be to your liking. The all thread is what you should do, you could even get some stainless steel tube and be done with it. Use Revo rodend tra5347.

The uppers front and rear only worked for me with a bend for clearance.

[bikeboy]

yeah from what I've been searching in this forumn there is no one solution that you can "just buy and install" out there
Awhile back I pm Jeepkid about it and he help out, ended up with using the axial bent pipe
not to thrill about it so thats why I'm looking into something else
i might do the solution eisman and Tydl mention in this post
worth a shot, cheap and flexible solution
thanks guys

[articzap]

From my build thread.

My front CI low clearance links have a Losi 17* bent rod end where it goes into the axle and a Revo rod end at the chassis.
My T1E rear links have a Revo rod end at the chassis and Jato rod end at the axle.
My front upper Axial 30* bent links have had 5/16" taken off of the short side for proper axle clocking. These are placed in the furthest back, middle height position on the chassis.
The rear uppers are now Revo push rods and mounted inboard on the chassis. These are placed furthest back on the chassis and highest position.

Still rocking the axial bent rod ends on the front upper links. I will be doing custom Ti links soon though.

[bikeboy]

Originally Posted by articzap

From my build thread.



Still rocking the axial bent rod ends on the front upper links. I will be doing custom Ti links soon though.

you brought up an interesting point.
About the inboard mount. What is the advantage and disadvantage versus inboard and outboard?

[articzap]

Originally Posted by bikeboy

you brought up an interesting point.
About the inboard mount. What is the advantage and disadvantage versus inboard and outboard?

Inboard ducks the links in and keeps them out of the way. I did it for the reason of running those Traxxas links. Out board would push the axle way to far down. Slight less stability, but plenty enough to keep the truck planted. Most guys are running front and back inboarded, I am only running back inboarded right now.

[Jeepkid]

I have now clocked my front down a good bit. Running CI lower clearence links in the front now. My servo is close to level.

[Tydl]

Originally Posted by bikeboy

you brought up an interesting point.
About the inboard mount. What is the advantage and disadvantage versus inboard and outboard?

Forgot about that, mine are inboarded too, but I did them originally outboarded. I definitely makes it easier to clearance the shocks by inboarding, but you do get some axle sway.

[articzap]

Originally Posted by Jeepkid

I have now clocked my front down a good bit. Running CI lower clearence links in the front now. My servo is close to level.

I run my axles so that the upper and lower link mounting points are in the same vertical plane.

[Jeepkid]

Originally Posted by articzap

I run my axles so that the upper and lower link mounting points are in the same vertical plane.

As do I now
It feel great on sidehills that I couldent dig into before.
Now its so much smoother.

[Tydl]

Originally Posted by articzap

I run my axles so that the upper and lower link mounting points are in the same vertical plane.

Just cuz I can't see it clearly at the moment, where does that put your gearbox?

[articzap]

Originally Posted by Tydl

Just cuz I can't see it clearly at the moment, where does that put your gearbox?

[Tydl]

Thanks Articzap

The second picture shows a great perspective.

[eisman]

FWIW, I found that when mocking up my upper links, when they were outboarded there was tons of binding. None with them inboarded. An attribute of the straight links I suppose.

[TSK]

Best answer of the day.

The simplest solution to find what works for you is to pick up some all thread and revo ends. then mount the rod ends to the axle and chassis.

postiion the axle to the desired clock position and measure the distance between the ends of the rod ends. Then add 20mm to that measurement (to account for 10mm of threading on each end)

This will get you to where you want, and you can later find apporiate links to suit your needs (such as the Lunsford Rock Grinders that come in virtually any length you could need. Plus you could always sleeve the all thread with some brake line, and bend the rod for motor clearance, ec.

[eisman]

Originally Posted by TheSCorpionKing

Best answer of the day.

The simplest solution to find what works for you is to pick up some all thread and revo ends. then mount the rod ends to the axle and chassis.

postiion the axle to the desired clock position and measure the distance between the ends of the rod ends. Then add 20mm to that measurement (to account for 10mm of threading on each end)

This will get you to where you want, and you can later find apporiate links to suit your needs (such as the Lunsford Rock Grinders that come in virtually any length you could need. Plus you could always sleeve the all thread with some brake line, and bend the rod for motor clearance, ec.

I can't take credit for that advise. Articzap gave me that same advise a while back. He definitely deserves all the credit here.

Me... I just did the math, and got links to suit my needs. It is the best advise though.