VP knuckle mod on xr10 - Wraith or XR10??

[001Hulk]

Hello everyone
A few questions and hopefully some good answers from anyone with the experience. Im getting ready to purchase some VP c hubs and knuckles as well as a titanium tie rod.
First question is are there any benefits to running the Wraith knuckles on the XR10 axles?? Are the Wraith C hubs needed as well?? Would the VP XR10 knuckles be the same as the VP Wraith knuckles after trimming off the lower arms on the knuckles? And lastly, can someone explain the benefit of running the caster all the way back and say beyond stock locations?? I know its a popular mod, im just not sure why!!

On another note, has anyone built a front housing for the rear of the car?? If so what special mods if any are needed? It looks to be the same front or rear between lockout screws and chub screws, anyone know of any stronger rear shafts? Bent a couple from hard falls and rollovers!!!
thanks in advance to everyone who pits in thier two bits!!

[001Hulk]

Dang.....coming up on 90 views and not a single reply... No love for the newb!! I was hoping one of these highly tuned XR10 guys would chime in and school my ass!!! Well ill keep searchin with the VW powerd search we have on here

[T3rry]

wraith knuckles?... not sure if it would work, or why you would want to do it, use the normal xr VP stuff...

Over clocking the caster just makes the tires clear the shocks better allowing for more steering throw

and yes, people have used the front axle housings on the rear, all it changes is the link placement and widen the axel, not really beneficial IMO

And yes, there are beefy rear axels, they are called seldem bend (seld-m-bend)

[001Hulk]

Thanks T3rry!!! your my hero for answering some simple little questions!! I saw DR Frank post his new build and he is using the Wraith knuckles on his XR axle and said they were a perfect fit for rotating the caster beyond stock!! I just wasnt sure if its because the Wraith knuckles are a little different or what not. I did not see the benefit in the caster mod until you pointed it out to me Totally makes sense as soon as I looked at the bigger picture. I just dont like modding things up aimlessly, I would rather have a firm understanding of what it is that im after.. Next up Im looking for some Seld-m-bends!! Thanks again friend

[indiana mudcat]

Clocking the caster back helps traction climbing and digging also and makes for tighter turns even if it doesn't increase the throw. It also allows you to clock the axle forward to raise the front motor a little for clearance, go to far with the motor and you'll notice the weight raising though. It also shoves the servo horn down which is bad but back on bottom which is good if you clock the axle forward.

[ROLANDROCKSHOP]

theyr both the same axial stock part#'s..that should tell you something.

a lil searching never hurts..not just here...google.

of course it always comes back to here....

im using strc wraith knuckles and c's on my xr10,no problems.

[001Hulk]

Thanks guys thats all real helpful advice, and yes that damn google brings me back here everytime...... but google actually sends me back to post that are helpful Im alread taking off the front wheels to get to work. Hopefull gonna hit my first comp this weekend Not sure how thats gonna go but I know its gonna be fun

[001Hulk]

I just looked on the VP site and there is a difference in the XR10 and Wraith knuckles they produce. Its similar to my first thought that by the time you cut off the lower turning arm they are very similar except the Wraith knuckles are machined and threaded on top and have reversable turning arms!!

[bigstu]

True, the wraith parts are machined and have the reversible arms, but I think you are going to have issues coming up with a steering set up that works well.
My two cents worth, if you are building a XR10, buy the XR10 parts, get a titanium link kit from Chaotic, and be done with it.
I have two XR10 comp rigs set up that way, and have been beating on them both for a while now. Neither of them has had a steering related breakage.

One the front axle in the rear, do some searching. There are a couple of guys that have done this mod and reported good results.

The only thing it really accomplishes is that you don't have the cutting break option and the link mounts are in a slightly different configuration than the rear axle.
You will need to buy the top link mount for the front axle, the shorter main gear shaft, and you will need two of the short rear axles, and the outers to make this work.
I thought about it and decided against. It really doesn't accomplish much for the additional cost.

I will say it is nice, because then you can have one axle assembly as a spare and if there is a failure, there are less parts to carry.

[001Hulk]

Thanks for the intel!!! I wouldnt be missing that weak sauce cutting brake any at all. The gained clearance for the links however is pricless im from the 1:1 world and am use to just hacking mounts of fabbing new ones and welding em rt where i want em!!! I was not aware that I needed two shorts though...... Just a thought.... Figured before I bought up the VP bling for the rear that i might as well check my options. All the parts are nearly the same price..... Just gonna have to get ahold of another rear axle and tranny shaft!!! All in good time!!
Thanks again everyone for the helpful advice!!