Robbob's 2013 Season Ride - T1E Sniper v2.0

[Robbob]

So 2012 was a great year for me. I learned so much in the MOA world with my Chump RT. Took home some nice hardware, another season title and won some comps along the way.

Starting out at 6lbs my driving style and truck has seen a slew of weight loss changes. Ending its season at 4.0lbs with a body I knew it it had to be a bodiless for my follow up season.

But what to pick ...... there is some truly incredible chassis's out there right now but I went with the T1E Sniper.

I kept an eye on Turbo's build thread and traded some pm's back and forth with him. Well I decided to order one, still a little unsure if that was the direction I wanted I figured atleast try it.

Ordered and sitting in a box for almost 3 weeks I finally had the time to tear down my rig for its new chapter. My goal this time is to break below 4lbs, handle anything I throw at it and come out with a hat trick 2013 season.

Here we go .......

First thing some are probably saying is v2.0? Well after a few runs I went looking for some build threads for references. First thing I noticed was hey mine looks different, what happened? Well a couple PM's with Nick he told me it was the Sniper but they made changes at Nats and I got the newer version.

Hmmmm OK, Im cool with that but what was changed. Talked with Nick and he said it was geometry improvements. Nice, I like improvements. Couple PM's with Turbofest I learned more. The v2.0 is changes they made at Nats that really woke the truck up and by his Nats performance Id have to say it worked.

Ok So where do I go with this thing ...... Lets start with what the v2.0 looks like.


Being an old school CF guy from Oval and TC days and knowing my driving I first started by sealing my edges. I used AKA's tire CA, and run a bead down each edge. This gives a nice smooth feel to the CF that honestly after a few rock bashes is just chipped. But why do it then? Habit and it does help keep it looking like you dont roll over much.






Ok so glues drying now what to do. Lets take some weight off that cab area by making new braces.

So heres our traditional delrin cross pieces, nothing really wrong with these just heavy.


Hmmm lets grab some of those many Axial links we all have hanging around and make something.


Yup still heavy


5mm ends with 4mm centers ...... 4 to go please


4 Delrin spacers


4 Aluminum spacers


SWEET!

I went with 5mm ends thinking 4mm was just to small around the screw holes. Figuring a fall would risk the CF at that spot and/or allow unwanted flex I played it safe.



So wheres this leave me for a cab with all Ti screws and new braces?

[Robbob]

So at our season finale my main goal was to protect my points. In doing that I didnt really push the rig until course 3. Thats where things went south. After falling into a V area and thinking the trigger would help I developed the click in my front end.

Yup the axle thats never given me a problem is ready to grenade on me. Ok drive smart, work the truck and dont put to big a load on the front. Oh and finish the course? Nope had the last gate 3 feet infront me and just ran out of time. It happens but no biggie.

So when I got it home and tore the nose apart I found the bushing had just finally let go. Ill be honest, Ive only changed it once before so all my fault. The RC4WD gears were still intact but you can see the few teeth I rolled on. I cant put these back in and not know when theyll fail so I got Axials HD spool and upper gear.

Before


After (nothing new)


And a little carnage to the front case, probably one of the reasons to failing. Little to close on the sanding and some gear case rubbing.


I also decided to try my delrin bushing setup in the front too. Its been working good so far on the rear. And my gun drilled shafts are still playing nice nice.

Blown bushing


delrin rear spacer


Front going in



While I had the axles apart to clean and repair I decided to try the light weight gears in the rear case. Only got 2 for now but will fit them all after seeing the savings.

What I was running - stock sinter gear


Axial HD light weight


Drilled 7/32 Carbide


Drilled 1/8 Carbide


So axles back together it came the fun time for links. I started with 120mm lunsford for the front + Revo ends



Uppers I used solid aluminum rod with 10-24 thread again


I dont know what the hollow rod weights but got some on order to see if its worth the change


For the rears I used 135mm Lunsfords + Jato + revo end ...... Ive got 140 and 145's coming in. Not a Jato fan so those are gonna change and not to happy with my bend clearance. But good enough to practice with. This also left me 1/4'' shy of 12.5''on compression so another reason to change.




Another weight drop was my steering link wheel to wheel. Been running it since last year

SS


3/16 aluminum



Little battery hold down trick Ive been using since breaking velcro straps last year.


O-rings from any automotive parts store. Felpro part# 70800


They will hold a GensAce 850 3S pack and Cheapbatterypacks.com 600mah 4S packs. And I have no problems with them interfering with the shock.



Another little trick I did to the front end was to help gain steering throw in my servo horn. Not to many people talk about this and if your not looking for it you wont see it in their builds.

My servo turned all the way left would hit my Jato/Revo ends on the underside of the servo. I run my link behind the horn to lesson the chance of getting hung up. I would hit the servo before I maxed my left throw out.

With one small change thats not a problem anymore.


I drilled an extra hole about .25 back from the center of the original on my VP arm.


Doing this I had to dial steering out of my radio and still gained more throw while working the servo less. Less stress less heat a happy servo.

[Robbob]

A little weight comparison while Im at it ......

Ti screw vs Aluminum


Ti


Aluminum


Just food for thought ......

So I hit the scale ....... ready to roll with no knuckle weights





First thing I looked at was my bias, it was farther back then I had anticipated. Ive come to like it right at the lower links or forward of it. Ok, need knuckle weights

Except these need a little work done to them. Ive been using Nordic Crawler weights since Tomy made them public and they work great. I wanted to keep them but have my brass a little lower and forward.

Dremel with a cutting bit I elongated my holes a bit



Letting me move the weights




Still got some room to go bigger brass or lower with some new plates made


So now bias at pre-knuckle weights


And new bias spot


Still want to get it closer to that screw .....

[Harvo]

Nice build. I like to use bicycle innertube sections to do the same thing as your o-rings. Same elasticity and hold power...but lower profile.

[Tydl]

Looking good so far,

Nice rebuild

Dig the wheels

[Tomy]

I'm impressed with how lightweight your chassis is!

[AlexG]

Damn the v2 is looking even better than the original looks like a mix between the special ops and the sniper v1.

Can't wait to get some funds in paypal


Keep up Robbob, I enjoyed reading your threads

[Robbob]

Originally Posted by Harvo

Nice build. I like to use bicycle innertube sections to do the same thing as your o-rings. Same elasticity and hold power...but lower profile.

Thanks.

Originally Posted by Tydl

Looking good so far,

Nice rebuild

Dig the wheels

Thanks. Im comfortable with my foam setups now so cant beat it for 12$ I got 4 wheels that are light. The yellow ones are actually better, little firmer/stronger.

Originally Posted by Tomy

I'm impressed with how lightweight your chassis is!

Thank you. Ill have to take a weight again, some small changes I should be under 60grams.

Originally Posted by alexus

Damn the v2 is looking even better than the original looks like a mix between the special ops and the sniper v1.

Can't wait to get some funds in paypal


Keep up Robbob, I enjoyed reading your threads

Thanks.

Thats what threw me off to start was the cab, roof line was different. I was told the v2 was done to maximize the benefit of 3.5'' shocks.


Measured mine the other night and no limiters inside Im right at it.




Thanks for looking ....... should have some more updates with some running action this weekend.

[TURBOFEST]

Awesome Bob! As usual, you've got a very informative build thread going. The fact that it's a T1E Sniper build thread is just an added bonus!

I'm stoked to see a Sniper chassis on your rig!

[ittybitty]

Turbo and Nick did a great job incorporating the looks of the Spec. Ops and the Sniper into one chassis...that looks MUCH better in my opinion. I thought Turbo was going to throw his off the mountain before a few changes he ended up making on Friday before Nats

[Robbob]

Originally Posted by TURBOFEST

Awesome Bob! As usual, you've got a very informative build thread going. The fact that it's a T1E Sniper build thread is just an added bonus!

I'm stoked to see a Sniper chassis on your rig!

Thanks man. Figure if I talk alot in my builds it might sound like I know what Im doing

Thankfully I dont have to take the shocks apart and limit them.

Originally Posted by ittybitty

Turbo and Nick did a great job incorporating the looks of the Spec. Ops and the Sniper into one chassis...that looks MUCH better in my opinion. I thought Turbo was going to throw his off the mountain before a few changes he ended up making on Friday before Nats

LOL Ya I heard something about crawler fairy dust being sprinkled on the new design.

[SINister]

Nice rig

How does that 3/16 alum uppers feel, strength wise? I've used steel rod with the 10-24 die for links but wasn't sure the alum would hold up.

[TURBOFEST]

Originally Posted by ittybitty

Turbo and Nick did a great job incorporating the looks of the Spec. Ops and the Sniper into one chassis...that looks MUCH better in my opinion. I thought Turbo was going to throw his off the mountain before a few changes he ended up making on Friday before Nats

True story ...Things came around though

Originally Posted by Robbob

Thanks man. Figure if I talk alot in my builds it might sound like I know what Im doing

Yeah...I'm sure it's all just smoke

Originally Posted by Robbob

LOL Ya I heard something about crawler fairy dust being sprinkled on the new design.

Also a true story

Originally Posted by SINister

How does that 3/16 alum uppers feel, strength wise? I've used steel rod with the 10-24 die for links but wasn't sure the alum would hold up.

I'm sure Bob will chime in on this seeing as how it's his build thread, but I feel compelled to answer this as well. I've been running 3/16" .049" wall aluminum tube uppers for months now without a single issue. That said, I'm 100% sure his solid uppers will be plenty strong enough...nevermind steel.

[rob_b]

Typical Robbob thread... You should put a 4g death warning on it though.

Glad to see you finding round parts to make smaller too.

[TSK]

That was alot of reading. I'm done for the day

[SINister]

Thanks for the info guys

[Robbob]

Originally Posted by SINister

Nice rig

How does that 3/16 alum uppers feel, strength wise? I've used steel rod with the 10-24 die for links but wasn't sure the alum would hold up.

Originally Posted by TURBOFEST

I'm sure Bob will chime in on this seeing as how it's his build thread, but I feel compelled to answer this as well. I've been running 3/16" .049" wall aluminum tube uppers for months now without a single issue. That said, I'm 100% sure his solid uppers will be plenty strong enough...nevermind steel.

Ive been running the solid aluminum on the RT for a while now. Ive taken some big dives in the early days that caused the rears to tweak a little. Took them off and straighten them and good to go.

No problems with them at all for uppers.

Do have the tube stuff comeing though like Turbo's build. If they're holding up on yours and can save me weight I'll switch them up.

Originally Posted by rob_b

Typical Robbob thread... You should put a 4g death warning on it though.

Glad to see you finding round parts to make smaller too.

LOL I though about putting a 56k warning on my title.

Its funny I feel bad for the lathe when I got nothing to do on it. It just sits in the corner looking sad lol.

Originally Posted by TheSCorpionKing

That was alot of reading. I'm done for the day

Whimp ...........

[rob_b]

Originally Posted by Robbob

Do have the tube stuff coming though...
I feel bad for the lathe when I got nothing to do on it. It just sits in the corner looking sad

Turn your solid rod into tube.

[Robbob]

Originally Posted by rob_b

Turn your solid rod into tube.

Drills are to short.

Tried it in the opposite direction too. I have .25 aluminum tube that I thought I could do a 4mm insert and turn down.

Pretzels

[rob_b]

Link

7075 tube links would be sweet. You can send the bit to me after you're done