Originally Posted by mxhead69 (Post 5299678)

OK, count me in! I do have a couple of detail questions though; I'm assuming that since the front drive cups off of the front differential are longer than the rears, and since we're converting this to steering on the rear, I would need to order a set of the longer front drive cups to put in the rear differential, correct? Second, in the pictures I notice you're using hexes, axles and wheel nuts off of the ready to run version – I have the kit version which uses 17 mm hexes and 17 mm wheel nuts – will these parts still work with the kit version wheel hexes?

Originally Posted by tonyfalkon (Post 5300887)

The Axial parts you need for this conversion are..

Originally Posted by tonyfalkon (Post 5300887)

The Axial parts you need for this conversion are
AX31259 Front Axle Stub 16 x 39 mm (17 mm Hub) 1 set
AX31089 CVD Dogbone 11x123 1 set
AX31017 Yeti™ XL Steering Knuckle Set
AX31046 Front Pivot Pin 2 pcs
AXA183 M3 x 6 mm Set Screw 2 pcs
AXA1243 Bearing 15 x 21 x 4 mm
AX31201 this part is a little confusing if you look at page 10 and 13 of the manual it says 10 x 16 x 5 mm but the same part number as the one on page 11 which is 8 x 16 x 5 mm which I think is a misprint, I'm pretty sure you need 8 x 16 x 5 mm which on the manual is AXA1225 Bearing 8 x 16 x 5 mm this is the outer bearing on the steering knuckles but I do not own a Kit I have an RTR so please use the caliper to verify.

No need to buy front drive cups they will not fit in the rear and they are too long believe me I tried. The front drive cups are longer because of the IFS, the CVD Dogbone needs to go back and fort as the suspension goes up and down no need in the rear since it is a solid axle the CVD Dogbone will not have the back and fort motion. You can use the rear drive cup and no need to change the hexes and nuts since you'll be using Axials front knuckles, front stubs and front CVD Dogbone.

Downside:
The position of the drag link mount on the Helios C-hub is on the front not on the bottom like the AX31084 AR60 XL Straight Axle Adapter, the AX31034 WB XL Driveshaft will be stretched 25 mm longer it will still work but there's only 4 - 6 mm contact. If your planing to use after market SYEX37 HR Telescoping Steel Rear Drive Shaft you would need 25 mm longer shaft same is true with the GPM/Dhawk brand also, you would need 25 mm longer upper links. A simple solution would be to shorten the upper link and the drag link, in terms of expenses I'll leave that to you to find out. In my build there was no question that the AX31034 WB XL Driveshaft will mot survive on my driving style, I switch both RTR and build to the SYEX37 HR Telescoping Steel Rear Drive Shaft and have the local machinist make me a longer shaft.

Good luck with your conversion measure twice cut once, be safe and most of all Have Fun.

Originally Posted by mxhead69 (Post 5306447)

AX31089 is a universal center driveline dog bone, 11x155mm, not sure why I'd need one of those. AX31225 is the front CVD axles on my kit, I'm guessing that's what I need...along with the other parts of course.

Originally Posted by Helios RC (Post 5304348)

The new truss will have left and right mounts built in. There will also be a version for a single mount on the left side (when looking at axle housing from diff cover side). Do we need a single mount option for the right side only as well?

1. Dual servo mount truss
2. Single left side mount truss
3. Single right side mount truss

I'm asking if we need option 3 or if option 1 and 2 are good.

Lastly, all parts will be available as a set (coming soon).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by cmbscx10 (Post 5309549)

I would like to hit the "Complete your Purchase" button and was curious as the Truss update before i do.

Originally Posted by cmbscx10 (Post 5311000)

Crickets?:lmao: Anybody out there?

Originally Posted by Sneetches (Post 5312764)

Hope to hear how it works out because the idea of a Wraith XL sounds super cool to mess around with after comps and whatnot.

Originally Posted by tonyfalkon (Post 5312759)

That package should have left the truss option open, people will appreciate it more if they can choose which side to put the servo on and saves consumer some money to have to buy extra truss they wanted it on, the right side or dual servo for that matter. I do see that the dual servo mount is a tad higher but what's $4 more added to the package than say buying another truss.